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Old 11-09-2013, 12:41 PM   #309
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I just blew the lines on our AS last week. Overnight I remembered that I had neglected to do the outside faucet and black tank spray system. So I'll have to hook it up again and finish the job. Glad I remembered before it was too late. Also if you have any filters in the lines you should remove them before pumping any anti-freeze solutions. You will probably want to put new ones in anyhow. So, Just a reminder of a few things along the way. In fact I just blow the lines and put anti-freeze in the traps and toilet. I do not pump it throughout the system. I've never had any problems doing that.

Good luck with your job.
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Old 11-10-2013, 02:38 AM   #310
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When blowing out the lines, be sure to control the pressure and remove the water filter. The filter does not do well with air pressure. Dick & Vicki...If you are storing your rig inside, you should not have too many worries. Even if it dips below freezing outside and you blow out the lines, you should be OK. I would still put antifreeze in the traps as a precaution. Oklahoma does not get that cold, right?
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Old 11-10-2013, 05:40 AM   #311
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Blowing out the lines and then running antifreeze through them seems a little like belts and suspenders to me. I've never blown mine out, but I do use three gallons of antifreeze. I'll run it through the pump to every faucet, shower, and toilet. I let it run pink/orange out the faucet for a fairly long time. My thoughts are I'm taking care of the drains and tanks at the same time.. So far, no problems, and it doesn't take but a few minutes. (With two of us doing it.)
Am I missing something? Our AS is under a roof, but its not enclosed. We get some good freezes here in Missouri. (Looking at 18 or 19 here on Monday night.)
Thanks
Jeff
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:27 PM   #312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GettinAway View Post
Blowing out the lines and then running antifreeze through them seems a little like belts and suspenders to me. I've never blown mine out, but I do use three gallons of antifreeze. I'll run it through the pump to every faucet, shower, and toilet. I let it run pink/orange out the faucet for a fairly long time. My thoughts are I'm taking care of the drains and tanks at the same time.. So far, no problems, and it doesn't take but a few minutes. (With two of us doing it.) Am I missing something? Our AS is under a roof, but its not enclosed. We get some good freezes here in Missouri. (Looking at 18 or 19 here on Monday night.) Thanks Jeff
No doubt if you run enough anti-freeze though, you will displace the water and won't need to blow out the lines first. The reason I blow out the lines first is that it takes less antifreeze. The second reason is that to successfully get rid of the water in the pipes between the hot water bypass valves and the tank itself, you have to push anti-freeze into the water tank.

Jack
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Old 11-11-2013, 05:52 AM   #313
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Thanks everyone.. Okay, we had planned on going out to the AS on Saturday, but had company come over and never made it out, when the RV stores where open. So Sunday we headed out, but when we got there we realized we didn't have everything we needed (and couldn't find it at either lowes or home depot) so we didn't winterize.

My husband leaves town for the week this morning and it's up to me to get this done today. It's dipping down to 25 tonight. Grrrrrrr!!

So I think I'll just go to the RV store and buy one of those kits that has the pump for the anti freeze and pump it into the system (closing off and draining the water heater)..

Is this pretty easy for one person to do? Dang, I'm tempted to just pour a little anti freeze down the traps, but I sure don't want any frozen lines...

Vickie (the aggravated wife!)
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Old 11-11-2013, 08:45 AM   #314
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After all is done you should pour some RV AF down into the traps. In fact that's a MUST. But you will also need to do one of the other routines and either pump AF throughout he plumbing or blow with compressed air. Whichever you choose there's plenty of guidance here on the forum. It's a single person job but easier if you follow a routine just to make sure you cover all the tasks. If your water heater has a by-pass figure out where it is and how to use it. It will save you 5 or 6 gallons of RV AF. If you have any filters you should plan to remove them. You will probably want to replace them next season anyhow but they say the AF will ruin them. Don't forget the outside faucet and black tank spray system ( if so equipped ) and low point drains under the trailer. It's not difficult but its a step by step process.
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Old 11-11-2013, 09:30 PM   #315
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If this link works, I have posted my winterization checklist:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qab521s8nt...hecklists.docx

Note that it is included with my summarization checklist and my standard departure checklist. Who's anal? Please let me know if there's something that you see that I've missed? This is only my second time doing a winterization, but it took less than 30 minutes once I have the right tools in hand to get the job done:

Compressor
Water inlet pressure fitting
3 gallons antifreeze
Silicone hose and adapter for t-valve
Crescent wrench to remove the water heater drain plug
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:34 PM   #316
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Vickie, if you are going out in 2 weeks, just run the furnace at the lowest setting on the thermostat. Keep it plugged into shore power so you won't run the batteries down. That'll keep everything warm enough for the duration and you'll have more time to learn how to winterize. Make sure you have enough propane.

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Old 11-13-2013, 08:32 AM   #317
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I want to thank everyone who posted here to help me. Here's what happened. I went out to the AS to winterize on Sunday. I couldn't unscrew the nut to let the water out of my water heater and looking at the pump I felt overwhelmed. There was another man at the storage so I asked him about it. He said not to worry about winterizing since we are only having a hard freeze for one night, that it is warming up during the day and it's enclosed.

I had thought about leaving the heater on, but didn't feel comfortable doing that.. Anyway, there was only a hard freeze for a few hours so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. This weekend we'll get this winterizing all figured out, so we won't go through this again!
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Old 02-23-2014, 06:40 AM   #318
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John:

Is the 'diverter valve' the valve that bypasses the water heater?
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Old 02-23-2014, 07:14 AM   #319
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John:

Is the 'diverter valve' the valve that bypasses the water heater?

Yes, generally speaking however I would recommend looking at your AS manual. I had some difficulty locating the "winterizing" valve, even studying the manual. Hope these pics help.Click image for larger version

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ID:	206198Click image for larger version

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Old 02-24-2014, 05:17 AM   #320
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John:
What does the first photo indicate? In the second photo, is the valve the mustard color item that is parallel to the pipe located on the floor? Finally, is the 'Winterized' graphic located on the water heater Styrofoam?
Thanks,
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Old 02-25-2014, 05:39 AM   #321
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John:
What does the first photo indicate? In the second photo, is the valve the mustard color item that is parallel to the pipe located on the floor? Finally, is the 'Winterized' graphic located on the water heater Styrofoam?
Thanks,
I used to have a Bambi with the corner bed. If I'm not mistaken, that first photo shows the holes in the bed support you reach thru to close the valves, which bypasses the hot water heater.. I could be wrong, but that's what I think the picture is suggesting.
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Old 02-25-2014, 05:02 PM   #322
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Hey there,
The first picture is of my 2013 International 23D with a view of the bed platform.(rear left) The bottom hole cutout allows access to the hot water tank by pass valve and the other hole cutout above it--closest to the rear allows access into the storage compartment which houses the low point hot/cold water valves. As I said, in reviewing the my factory manual, it was not at all clear how to access the necessary valves to winterize! I hope this helps and good luck. Let me know if I can help. I am in western NY and winterized last October keeping my AS next to my house and plugged in frequently to keep batteries in good shape and prevent freezing.
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