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Old 03-10-2012, 06:54 PM   #281
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I'll need to remove the twin bed support decking to really see what is going on. There is only a small hole just big enough for your hand to fit through. The dealer told me to reach in and turn the valve. I have tried to look in there but it is a real mess of things. You have to move other pipes/wiring out of the way just to turn the valve. Would it have cost that much more to have made a proper door for access??? I know more gripes but good grief.
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:19 AM   #282
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Got by the trailer today and there is nothing in the literature about the converter. I looked in the front hole under the curbside twin. There is a black assembly that has a label IPS Class 7 Inverter/Battery Fuse, the battery relay, and a 600W "upgraded" WF-600T series Pure Sine Inverter. Where is the converter on this rig? I assumed in would be in there with the rest of the gear. I am now thinking somewhere under the dinette seat maybe? I hope to be back in the next few days to fit all the new dinette and couch cushions. I’ll look again.
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:27 AM   #283
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On a 25', I believe it it located under the front bed, behind a black metal panel.
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:58 AM   #284
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It is located under the queen bed facing the corridor to the main cabin in a 25' FB, but in a twin, good question. It has a black cover with louvers in it and that must be visible somewhere. Given the battery cables go to it, it would have to be under one twin or the other in a logical world.

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Old 03-14-2012, 10:14 PM   #285
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On an '06 FB it is under the right bed at the foot looking towards the hitch.
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Old 03-16-2012, 06:23 PM   #286
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Under the foot of the curb side twin. Boy what a dummy? It did not dawn on me that it was integral to the power distribution panel. It is a Parallax 7300 Series, but I did not get the exact model number. The MFG web site states that some models are two stage. I'll be over again tomorrow and get the exact model. I am not sure this is something I am going to bother replacing. I might be inclined to just buy a good quality charger to use on the isolated batteries in storage.
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Old 03-16-2012, 06:53 PM   #287
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Originally Posted by Collimare View Post
I'll need to remove the twin bed support decking to really see what is going on. There is only a small hole just big enough for your hand to fit through. The dealer told me to reach in and turn the valve. I have tried to look in there but it is a real mess of things.
Collimare, the valves are usually very near the HW heater. Just in front of it? And there should be more than one valve. The usual is three -- and the settings follow. Straightforward - crossways as start winterizing (remember to drain the HW heater), turn inline for spring/summer/fall use. Each valve only turns 90°.
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Can you find something like that by feel?
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:55 PM   #288
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Hi Bob,

Thank you very much for the very nice response and help! I am going to need to take the screw gun over tomorrow and just take the bed deck off so I can see. During the very brief walk through I was told one valve and that is all I can feel and see. I really don't see how you could reach anything else with that stupid small hole but the one directly below it. I may just cut a larger hole in and cover it with a piece of tin for now. The new twin beds from Verlo are three weeks out (I just can't wait!) and I will make all new wider decking anyway. I also need to start making plans on how best to insulate the whole bed areas.

Is there an easier way to post pictures than posting them somewhere, opening it, coping the link and then pasting it in? I can't just up load to this response. I would like to put more pictures in but it seems to be a real pain.

Thanks again, Howard
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:05 PM   #289
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Hello Howard. Resize them to maybe 900 x 1200 pixels first. Then look at the first of the sections here.

Okay, something tickles that some newer models have one valve. You may just be able to put a compact digicam on close-up and flash. Aim it in there at angles you can't otherwise see. I've even taken photos inside closed compartments on timer -- wanting to see how misaligned latches line up. More for my edification than posting on the forum. Whatever works...
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Old 03-16-2012, 11:07 PM   #290
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... Okay, something tickles that some newer models have one valve. ...
There was another thread that discussed this recently. We are mostly familiar with the three valve setup previously described. Apparently Airstream has recently started installing a single valve assy that provides the bypass function. I've not yet seen one for myself so I'm at a loss to explain how it works. In that thread it was determined access to that valve was through a small hole under the bed. There was another valve in that particular trailer that was visible beside the water heater and accessible from an outside compartment. It was a low point drain for the line feeding the water heater.

http://www.wikihow.com/Bypass-the-Wa...ter-of-Your-RV
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Old 03-17-2012, 06:13 PM   #291
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I just got back from the trailer and there is only one valve. Please see pictures below. The valve blocks the cold water feed at the bottom of the tank and there is T where the cold water feed connects to an assembly at the hot water output. This must be some type of automatic bypass valve. The cold water feed also connects back to the drain valve in the adjacent storage compartment.

Bad news is the RV500 will not fit and I will need to wait for the new Atwood Tankless model which seems to be delayed till at least May.

Good news is that when the new mattresses arrive I can move the under storage assembly out an additional 6” to 7”. Now do I extend the cabin storage boxes or just use the extra outside storage? I am leaning toward extending the back of the cabin storage areas.
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:58 PM   #292
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thanks, winterizing stinks
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Old 11-12-2012, 03:57 PM   #293
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I did not go through this whole thread.
I have a quick question on the water filter under the sink.
Do I run the pink stuff through it?
I already did, so I guess, I'm just asking how bad I messed it up.
It had a red light blinking on it already, so I thought maybe it was time to change it out.
Will the pink/orange stuff still be effective, once it's been through the filter?

FYI, I have a one valve bypass on the hot water heater.
I set it on "winterized" and it completely bypasses the hot water heater with the pink stuff. I pulled the drain plug in the hot water heater, after I'd run the pink stuff everywhere, and the hot water heater was still bone dry.

Thanks
Jeff
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Old 11-12-2012, 04:09 PM   #294
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I believe AS recommends one filter for Winterizing and one for use.

What I do for our faucet filter.

Bob
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