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Old 10-23-2011, 05:16 PM   #225
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I put some antifreeze in the hot water tank and not sure which valves on the side to close to empty the tank only and not my whole systen , there are 3 valves . Could you please give me some direction on which ones to close just to empty the tank and not the entire system? George
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Old 10-23-2011, 06:02 PM   #226
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I put some antifreeze in the hot water tank and not sure which valves on the side to close to empty the tank only and not my whole systen , there are 3 valves . Could you please give me some direction on which ones to close just to empty the tank and not the entire system? George
George.

Go back to post six, John HD has a picture, easier than try'n too splain it.


Bob
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Old 10-30-2011, 06:27 PM   #227
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Hi all,
Moving from FL to NV has prompted many life changes for me - some expected, some not. But I just realized that I needed to winterize my Silver Olive for the first time. I read this thread through Friday and went to work... after grabbing a Miller of course.

I know the process has been covered well in this thread but I'm hoping someone will have patience with me and read my process to point out any omissions or corrections! I'm a little anxious about the process and it's going to be real cold here in a few days! I still have copper lines, no HW bypass and only a black tank.
  1. Opened all drain valves (3 under the sink, 2 in the rear hatch). I haven't ever put any water in the fresh water tank - city H2O only - and was sure surprised at how much water drained from the system.
  2. Removed drain from hot water tank.
  3. Raised and then lowered trailer.
  4. Closed all drain valves, replaced HW drain and opened the faucets.
  5. Removed filter from the kitchen water line.
  6. Pulled input line from water pump and secured longer rubber line to pump - other end secured to 8 gallon bucket filled with 6 gallons of Anti-Freeze.
  7. Turned on water pump and ran until pink AF came out of both faucets (turning them from hot to cold positions), shower head and swirled around toilet bowl when pedal pushed. I don't have any sprayers at sink or toilet - though there is an odd hose-like fitting on the bathroom wall kind of near the toilet???.
  8. Turned off pump and put a few cups of AF in all drain traps.
  9. Removed shower head & associated flex-line.
I'll pick up another gallon of AF to add to my black tank and remove my battery tomorrow. Did I forget anything? If not, I'm surprised - and it only took me a single Miller. How could that be? Better have another one now while I wait for a response!

Laura
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Old 10-30-2011, 08:26 PM   #228
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Laura, what ya dong in NV? That is in the middle of a whole lot of
good RVing.
Sounds like you got it. No outside faucets? Just make sure
wherever H2O may be lurking, it got replaced with pink stuff.

If there was any water already in the traps, it dilutes the pink
stuff. Make sure you ran enough through the traps that it won't
be diluted.

If your black tank is empty, you don't need to put pink in it.

You will find out how well you did on first outing next year.

Glad to hear there is life after NASA.

Take care
Dale
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Old 10-30-2011, 09:36 PM   #229
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Laura, sounds good! Do you have a low point drain down through the belly pan? That valve needs a bit of antifreeze run through it too. I like to visually check that the clear plastic dome on the filter between the fresh tank and pump has drained after I've done my manipulations.

I don't know what the valve arrangements are at the HW heater on a '73 Overlander. I don't recall much like that on my '74 Argosy. It is handy to have valves that let you shut off circulation into the HW heater after you've drained everything. You wouldn't need so much antifreeze if that were possible.

For instance, this valve arrangement is seen at some point. The right-hand image is the valve positions to isolate the HW heater:
Click image for larger version

Name:	Water heater bypass valves.jpg
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ID:	144150

That is for convenience only. It sounds like you've covered the waterfront.

I'm looking forward to skiing. Hope you and the New Yorkers don't take all our snow!
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Old 10-30-2011, 10:11 PM   #230
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Thanks Guys

Dale - I do have an exterior faucet. What do I do with that? Just open it? No idea if there is a low point in my belly pan? I'll pull my service manual and see if the riser has any indication. And I think my black tank is empty. Guess it depends on how good of a job I did in June. Hummm Thanks for the tip on really flushing the traps - which I did not. And yes - there is life after NASA. Though it is MUCH different. I can't wait until next summer to go to Yosemite - and Burning Man. My furnace is toast and I never thought I'd need it. I have a new investment to consider.

Bob, I know there is no bypass for the HW heater - no visible valves anywhere near it (closets or panels). I'm confused about checking that filter dome. I bypassed it when hooking the water pump to the hose to collect the AF. Should I reconnect everything and do some kind of cycle? No, that doesn't sound right. When/why do you use that dome as a visual cue?

Laura - who is looking forward to snow but will hopefully leave plenty for everyone else to enjoy.
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Old 10-30-2011, 10:42 PM   #231
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Laura, it probably drained when you pulled hoses apart to bypass it.

Be sure to reserve Yosemite at the earliest date allowed for the time of your visit.
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Old 10-30-2011, 11:18 PM   #232
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I do have an exterior faucet. What do I do with that?
Pump pink through it like all your other faucets
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Old 10-31-2011, 09:57 AM   #233
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Tanks again guys...

Tank Dog
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:17 PM   #234
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We just finished winterizing the water system. Every year I do more things. This year I ran water into the hot water tank by removing the plug and screwing in one of extra plumbing parts I have and attaching a piece of 1/2" CPVC to it and then pushing a hose nozzle against that. I also opened the pressure relief valve to allow water to displace the air.

I didn't fill the tank, but hope I have flushed out some of the sediment that can collect at the bottom.

Then I opened a valve below the bypass valves which drains some of the water lines. Next, I used the CVPC to force air into the tank from the compressor and out the drain. By fooling around with the bypass valves I found if the bottom one is open and the other two are closed, the water and air come out the drain. I did that until no more water came out. Then I put the bypass valves in their correct winter position. Thanks Bob for posting (# 229) that diagram of the valves because every year I have to look it up to make sure I have it right.

I also succeeded in getting wet because if you build up air pressure in the tank and remove the compressor hose, water blasts out at you. This happened when I was experimenting. When I removed the plug, water gushed out before I could get my feet out of the way and my socks got washed. When I pumped antifreeze to the shower, since I had removed the shower head hose, the connection points right at the door—when I opened the door, antifreeze sprayed out at me and washed my face, reading glasses, and shirt. I expected that so I held my hand in front of the outlet, but still got soaked. I can report RV antifreeze tastes sweet, just like auto antifreeze.

I used the compressor to force air down the sink and shower drains to try to clear water out of the P traps so the antifreeze would be less diluted. Since when blowing out the faucets, kitchen sprayer and toilet a fair amount of water goes to the grey tank, I drained both grey and black tanks again though they were drained before we left the last campground. I got about 1 1/2 gallons of water out of both tanks.

All this took 2 gal. of antifreeze.

There's always more you can do.

Gene
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Old 11-02-2011, 10:51 AM   #235
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I know it is recommended to shoot air thru the pipes however I do not own an air compressor and was wondering what type to buy? As always I appreciate the responses

John
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Old 11-02-2011, 11:05 AM   #236
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If you plan to use it for carpentry, you need one that is fairly portable. I have a pancake one that carries pretty easily and use it for nail guns and other air tools. I also have a big one that is good for auto use, but it is usually more than I need. It has much larger capacity, but still runs almost constantly when I'm blowing the water lines, so the pancake one would exhaust all the air and you'd have to wait for a while to build up pressure again. If you really want to get a very big one, they sit about 5 or 6' high.

The bigger the compressor, the less it runs. They are all very noisy.

I have a 3rd one for tires on trips. It runs on 12 v. off the trailer batteries, but is too small for blowing out lines.

Lowe's or Home Depot will have smaller ones and big ones and you can price them. They all come with hoses that are cheap and hard to use when they are cold. You also will have to buy some parts like the connectors unless a compressor comes as a package.

I avoid the cheap brands like Black and Decker for any tools. B&D owns Delta and Porter Cable and may have cheapened them too. Their DeWalt brand is much better quality than B&D. I also avoid Craftsman.

Gene
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Old 11-02-2011, 11:09 AM   #237
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Which ever compressor you by, be sure to get an oilless model (as most of them are now). Compressors that use oil can blow traces of it into your water system.
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Old 11-02-2011, 02:22 PM   #238
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Gene

I doubt that I will be using the compressor for much more then blowing out the lines but one never knows. Good news is I now know what a pancake compressor is but they come in all price ranges. I also did a review on the web and found mix reviews on just about all of the models with maybe porter cable getting the best but not by much. Can you recommend a size, the connections I will need and where do I put the hose to blow out the water.

If you blow the lines do you still need antifreeze?

I greatly appreciate the responses as I am new at this winterizing.

John
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