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murreywalker · 11-11-2011, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

If yours doesn't have one from the factory, install a shut off valve in the supply hose from the house plumbing to the filter housing. Mine looks like a residential toilet or icemaker shutoff.
Blow the line out with air and turn the valve off prior to adding pink stuff. Remove the filter, leave the housing off and leave the drinking water faucet open.

Unless you want to buy a half used Moen water filter (perfect for winterizing the sippy water) from me, I'll probably let the next guy (that buys my trailer) install the shut off valve. ;-)

BAB · 11-20-2011, 03:09 PM

A lot of unhappy folks about JC not listening RE placement of water pump. Maybe they HAVE listened! Just winterized my 2012 28' Int'l CCD. It took 5 minutes to put in a bypass at the water pump to run some antifreeze into the lines. Panel under fridge pulls off, there's the pump. Lots of room all around it. Input and output water lines are high pressure nylon hoses. Unscrew -- finger tight -- at water filter -- insert the kit, and all done.

Gene · 11-20-2011, 05:05 PM

Bab, is the filter at the front or the back. On mine it was in the back and just about impossible to reach. I got them to turn it around at no cost to me. I put rubber washers under it at the 4 screws and it made it a little quieter (or less noisy).

Gene

Goal15 · 11-20-2011, 07:19 PM

I put a bypass on my galley sink for the filter this afternoon. and in the process discovered what the little faucet handle was for on my Moen... who would have thought the filter would have its own dedicated line for filtered water... now if i could just figure out how to tighten down the Moen fixture.... for the life of me I can't figure out just exactly what it is that is keeping it in place albeit loosely. And no I don't have a picture b ecause I took the AS back to storage before i thought to take a picture. It's a Moen with spaghetti filler type neck and single lever handle for hot/cold mix plus the filtered water handle and a sprayer

palmtreegirl · 11-21-2011, 06:15 AM

Yesterday I moved the camper to storage - before that, I removed the batteries and killed all the switches and breakers.........THEN I tried to put it on the truck - NOT! I had to replace the batteries and turn on the switches and breakers because the tongue jack would not work. After storing it in my mother's barn, I re-removed the batteries and re-turned off all the breakers and switches.

Now, the trailer is all snug and dry - stored in a nice barn where it won't leak anymore and waiting for me to drop the belly, assess the damage and replace rotten flooring.....I can do the work next door (mom's) whenever I want - no heat there so I'm not sure when that will be.

Have a safe winter everyone!

BAB · 11-21-2011, 11:38 AM

The filter is just ahead of the brass valve I inserted. (It was easy to install the bypass in FRONT of the filter rather than behind it.) The filter has a clear plastic dome on it, and you can see the screen on the inside, so if it gets fouled, it'll be readily apparent.

rbs · 12-06-2011, 05:16 PM

We will be heading out this Thursday to pick up our "new to us" 2004 25' Classic. The only winterization that has been done is water drained and the lines blown out with air pressure. I will be winterizing it with RV antifreeze and have been reading as much as possible. Can I pick up the 3 way valve setup at an RV center, what brand etc, and anyone else with a 25' Classic that could offer some advice, all would be appreciated. So much to learn, so little time.
We are excited to say the least, but a little nervous.
Rod & Jane

dznf0g · 12-06-2011, 05:20 PM

3 way valve? Are you talking about the valve to suck up the antifreeze from the bottle installed just downstream from the pump? If so, you can get it just about everywhere...mine is a Camco brand. RV store all the way to Wal Mart.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...rizer-kit/6279

BTW, did you ever check the PM I sent?

ROBERT CROSS · 12-10-2011, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbs

We will be heading out this Thursday to pick up our "new to us" 2004 25' Classic. The only winterization that has been done is water drained and the lines blown out with air pressure. I will be winterizing it with RV antifreeze and have been reading as much as possible. Can I pick up the 3 way valve setup at an RV center, what brand etc, and anyone else with a 25' Classic that could offer some advice, all would be appreciated. So much to learn, so little time.
We are excited to say the least, but a little nervous.
Rod & Jane

R & J,

If your closet/wardrobe is packed anything like ourz it's much more convenient for me to pump the RV AF directly from the FW tank,(we sanitize twice a Season anyway)

The biggest Classic surprise.....weight!!! Tongue and GVW.
The trailer has a 7300lb GVW on a set of 3500lb axles.(ck yours)
Get to the scales for your baseline, and be careful how you pack.

Spend some time here doing your homework and youl'll be surprised at how well it goes.

Bob

rbs · 12-10-2011, 04:50 PM

We got her home today, and I'll admit that I was a little nervous starting out. We took your advice and weighed the truck empty going out for our baseline. The trailer came with a eaz lift wd hitch and sway bar. After measuring, setting the trailer on and adjusting the spring bars and remeasuring we felt that we were reasonably close so off we went. The first few hours of our return trip we faced a very stiff quartering headwind, but the comfort zone literally grew by the miles. The Airstream handled very nicely, we were just so happy that we were finally able to relax and enjoy our trip home. A return to the scales with the Airstream attached showed that some tweaking will be needed, but I am sure that a majority of people would have been elated with the way it pulled. I had purchased a 3 way valve winterizing kit before we left, but the location of the water pump and the time factor forced us to attach just the pick up hose to the pump to get the antifreeze into the lines, will figure out how to attach the 3 way later, or just preform the winterizing like you. I would be surprised if my axles were any different than yours, but that is surprising. Where do you find the axle ratings at? We had a lot of people looking at us strangely, pulling our Airstream in a northly direction, while everything we saw was heading southerly. I plan on asking alot of questions and really appreciate all of the advice and kind words.

Rod & Jane

Goal15 · 12-10-2011, 05:38 PM

rbs . . .

where are our manners?

Congratulations on your "new to you" Airstream. Hope that you and yours have as much fun and enjoyment as we have found in ours

Dana

john hd · 12-10-2011, 06:42 PM

just stopped by to see how things are going around here.

pleased to see this thread on the front page 8 years after i posted it! hope it helped people from expensive repairs.

i am doing well and still monkeying around with the old harleys.

take care all and merry christmas!

john

ROBERT CROSS · 12-11-2011, 07:33 AM

Rod & Jane,

Glad the trip went well, sounds like your off to a great start!!!

You'll find the axle ratings on the spec sheet in the owner's binder,(did you get one?) The trailer weight ratings are on the back of the curbside closet door, (same place as the h2o pump.)

As you can see AS has changed the system, according to the spec sheets most trailers are properly equipped, on paper anyway..........

"Model: 2012 - 25' EDDIE BAUER TRAVEL TRAILER

CHASSIS
7,300# GVWR • 7,300# Axle System • 5,729# UBW • 1,571# NCC • 833# Hitch Weight • Styled Aluminum Wheels • Radial Black Wall Tires, LRE (Load Range E) 16" • 12" Electric Drum Brakes w/ Nev-R-Adjust Brakes & Nev-R-Lube Hubs • Stabilizer Jacks (4) • Double Steel Step • Electric Hitch Jack w/Light • Spare Tire & Bracket."

These tickets illustrate just where our MAX load is for two weeks of boondocking, empty black and grey full LPG.
Because of what I consider to be extra strain on the axles and the fact that sitting for 5 months surely don't do them or the tires any good, "Cloudsplitter" goes on stands for the winter.

Bob

rbs · 12-11-2011, 05:19 PM

Removing the weight from the suspension and removing the tires looks like a very sensible idea. We weighed the truck, full of gas and 2 passengers carrying next to no cargo, at 6320#s. We weighted with the Airstream on our return and grossed out at 12600#s, Airstream weight figured to be 6300 lbs. Airstream's published GVWR for the trailer is 8000#s, so it does seem "strange" that it came with 3500# axles. We have spent most of this past year reading all we could about Airstreams, with the one thing we almost immediately settled on was the twin beds with the front couch layout, either a 25' or 27'. Right now we think the 25' is going to be perfect, all we do is stand it and laugh and cannot wait to start using it. Overall, our new Airstream is in excellent condition,came with all of the manuals and literature, although there was a dent that the owner forgot to mention, but in the end love has a blind eye. There are some things we plan on changing to make the unit better, and really only one item, so far, that will need attention. The front arm of the double steps is not securing itself into it's frame and sags, and I want to get that fixed right away. Also, did not run anti freeze thru the outside water system and need to do that. I am very confident that any question or problem that might arise, an answer can be found here, so thanks everyone for contributing.
Rod & Jane

brucebrew · 01-05-2012, 08:45 AM

Excellent....thanks for your hard work.

mtntime · 03-10-2012, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

Mac',

If you have a three stage converter, you can leave the batteries plugged in to shore power. If you have a one stage converter, don't. In recent years Airstream has installed a one stage converter to save a few bucks—it will overcharge the batteries and you will have to add water periodically. Check the materials that came with the converter to see what kind of charge function it has.

Gene

How do I tell what stage converter I have on a new 2012 25FB Flying Cloud?? Sounds like another thing I need to upgrade on the new trailer as I have covered parking with power. I was planning on keeping it plugged in. Thanks

Westfalia · 03-10-2012, 02:09 PM

Probably the stock Parallax unit. It is one stage unit.

Gene · 03-10-2012, 02:32 PM

Chris is probably right. The 3 stage parallax costs a little bit more, so they probably haven't changed. The paperwork for the converter should have been given to you. Read through it and it may tell you. If not, or you are unsure, go to the Parallax website and see which ones come with a 3 stage and which ones come with a one stage. Then compare model numbers.

Colli', you have several options:

1. Buy a new converter. I have been told Iota is a very good brand and charges the batteries properly.

2. Take the batteries out and put them on a good charger with a float charge function. A charger is a good thing to have for that time when someone left a light on in your motor vehicle and the battery is dead the next day.

3. Take the batteries out and charge them every month or two for however long it takes—several hours or a day. You can do this with a one stage charger and just charge until they are fully charged.

4. Leave them in and let the OEM unit charge them for a day or so, disconnect power to the trailer for the rest of the time.

5. Go solar with a controller that has a three stage charger and let that charger take care of the batteries. Keep the trailer unplugged. This doesn't work too well with covered parking, however.

6. Do nothing and just plug it in. Add water when necessary. Don't let a battery get low because that's when they freeze. For the first year, not knowing how cheap the OEM converter was, I just left it plugged in and checked battery fluid every three months or so. The next year I knew better and let the solar charger do the work. The batteries used a lot less water. The batteries lasted 3 1/2 years—the OEM ones seem to last 3 to 5 years. It is possible, maybe probable, the dealer lets batteries run down too low before they bother to recharge them and that means a shorter life span.

For now, I would do the simplest thing possible. If you go solar, you may solve your problem that way, or you may then decide to get a better converter and better batteries. There's no need to rush this. It is getting warmer and going camping should be on your mind soon. There are plenty of other things to improve the trailer that may come to mind as you get used to it and see what you want. There is no end to the money that can be spent on these things.

Gene

mtntime · 03-10-2012, 05:12 PM

Thanks Gene, I will take a look on Monday to see what is in there. I was considering having Randy Hall at the RVSolarStore.com install a system for me but I have decided pay a bit more to keep it parked under cover so there is no need really.

I have read this thread and considering the leak issues noted on some of the other threads why not run antifreeze through the entire system and then blow it out? Why blow it out first if you are going to run antifreeze anyway?

We like to get her out a lot nearly year round and winterizing is just a pain. We do not boon dock very often so I have always kept the fresh water tank full of antifreeze. This is the quickest and easiest way to get it done. I am trying to decide on the RV 500 or the new Atwood 50K BTU Tankless and this will make things even easier as I won’t have to drain the hot water tank, not to mention my wife will love the constant hot water.

I am also curious. The single bypass valve on my hot water tank must be a 3 way? That is all the dealer told me to do and I can’t really see in there to tell. All our old trailers were the typical three separate valves.

Gene · 03-10-2012, 05:29 PM

I don't understand why there wouldn't be three valves next to the water heater. There also is another valve below them on ours that drains a water line in that area. Does the owner's manual explain anything? I believe you have twin beds, so the placement of things is different. With a crosswise queen, we access the side of the water heater with the valves from a utility door next to it and under the bed. Your access may be very different.

Some have said on the Forum that any water left in the system makes the antifreeze somewhat less effective. So it is best to blow it all out in case they are right. If you have a compressor and an adapted for the city water inlet, it doesn't take all that long. We just pump antifreeze through the pipes, faucets, toilet valve, kitchen sprayer (don't forget outdoor shower) by using a bypass on the water pump. The water heater can have some water in it—it won't damage it, though it is a good idea to flush out the tank periodically. I never put much antifreeze in any tank—just enough to keep the valves lubricated.

Gene