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Old 09-09-2010, 03:12 PM   #127
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Those of you who have access to Tractor Supply, watch , I think RV anti-freeze is about to go on SALE. I was at my local store today and they had 8 skids. I didn't count the cases but its a bunch. REG price is about 4 bucks. AND yup its that time again folks. DARN and I was just beginin to have fun too!
I dont blow my lines out, I just push out the water with anti-freeze. I think with what I use in the toilet bowl and traps and a little in the fresh water tank,about 6 gallon does mine nicely.I just pump it in with my water pump till everything runs pink and then I'm sure everything is protected. Maybe a little over kill but what ta heck its only money.
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Old 09-10-2010, 12:15 PM   #128
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The toilet valve and the kitchen sink sprayer can easily freeze if not blown out. Don't ask how I know.

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Old 09-10-2010, 12:53 PM   #129
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Here in lovely Minnesota I gove as overboard as possible to protect from freezing. Drain the lines and waterheater, blow out, tip, drain and blow out some more. I have run antifrieeze through the system but after the blow out now I just put some in all the traps and drains. Then i unscrew and take the shower handle from inside and our outside one and the toilet sprayer and put em in a ziplock and bring in the house. So far so good. Except for the heck it wrecks on my floor which bubbles up every spring and about mid summer will settle back down only to repeat unfortunately. Oh and weve taken to propping open the turned off fridge and freezer to keep it from growning mold. learned that the hard way. Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
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Old 09-10-2010, 01:58 PM   #130
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I have always done (in my SOB) as thefixit does. The spray for the toilet and kitchen sink I just run a lot of pink through them. The question I have is what about the water filter and spout at the kitchen sink. In another post someone stated they had a shut off for that line and just removed the filter. I haven't looked really hard, but at first glance, I don't see a shut off. What do you all do for the filter lines and housing? Remove the filter element and run pink all through it?
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Old 09-10-2010, 02:21 PM   #131
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remove the filter, and leave the fixture tip off/open.

the water will BACK drain into the pipes and out at the low point valve.

the same process works to back drain the sprayers (toilet n sink)

then just leave the taps all open to flow/air.

running pink INTO all of the pipes, lines, pump and fixtures is also a reliable approach,

especially if mid winter camping/use means freezing conditions when trying to drain lines.

exposure to HARD freezes means removing ANY liquid containers that might burst then thaw...

as iin soda, beer or bottled water.

cheers
2air'
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Old 09-10-2010, 06:44 PM   #132
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The toilet valve on mine is only opened when the foot pedal is depressed. This also opens the toilet flapper. It cannot be left open, so it has to be blown out with one person stepping on the foot pedal and the other using the compressor. Water may remain in the sprayer and the hose where it hangs down under the sink even with the faucet open. Not sure how, but I had a cracked sprayer one spring. Same thing, needs two people, or, a lot easier with 2 people.

And when sucking antifreeze through the lines—easiest way is a bypass at the water pump—you need two people, one feeding antifreeze and the other opening and closing faucets. Don't forget the outside shower too.

I remove the shower heads and hoses and bring them inside to make no water is trapped in them. The undersink filter comes out first and I'm under the impression once it's removed, no water can flow through the line to the filter water valve, but maybe I'm wrong. Leaving that valve open as 2air suggests seems like a good idea.

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Old 09-10-2010, 07:16 PM   #133
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dz' has a classic...

the water filter is IN the moen fixture, not under the sink.

and water can still flow BIG TIME out the fixture without the filter/head

((it looks like large open water pipe when flowing))

i've blown out the lines with air/compressor and filled them with antifreeze solo (1 person)

but my arms are very very long.

lots of wayz to put sausage in da'tubez.

cheers
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Old 09-11-2010, 08:18 PM   #134
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A question

I am a little confused. We have a 94 Excella. When winterizing with antifreeeze should I remove the filter for the small drinking water tap on kitchen sink or not. Last year I believe that I removed the filter and closed the undersink valve then ran the antifreeze thorugh the pipes. A big error as the drinking water line froze and burst. Can I run the antifreeze through the filter into this line?

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Old 09-11-2010, 08:24 PM   #135
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I believe antifreeze ruins the filter, or at least substantially shortens the life. Will not the drinking water line drain out as 2air suggested—it sounded like you remove the filter, open the filtered water valve and let water drain out?

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Old 09-12-2010, 08:58 AM   #136
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Thanks Gene. What you say is logical. The simplest solution often evades my mind.
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Old 09-12-2010, 10:15 AM   #137
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I have left the sink faucet filter in place for the last couple of years and run pink stuff thru it!

Probably not good, but the green light still fashes when we use the filter.

I should perhaps buy a new filter at this point as we have had the trailer a couple of years and not replaced it. Fact is however that we pretty much always drink botled water when in the RV.

As far as winterizing, years ago when we had a trailer with a very simple water system - all it had was a kitchen sink and toilet sink, no shower, now HW heater, and had a portapotti, - I used to just blow the lines with a compressor and never had any problem.

After we bought trailers with full plumbing systems, I read someplace that when blowing with air, it was still quite possible for residual water to pool someplace in the pipes and cause freezing damage.

So I switched to using the RV water pump to fill the lnes with plumbing antifreeze and have done it that way ever since.

I can do the AS in probably 15 minutes or so and it takes me about one and a half jugs of antifreeze.

The only problem I ever had was the first winter we bought the Airstream.

I didn't know there was a rinse hose and nozzle for the toilet, becasue the previous owner had tucked the hose up in the back of the toilet down by the floor!

Hose nozzle cracked and it was about $40 as I recall for a new hose & nozzle assembly!

Maybe just blowing with a compressor is fine, but for me, I have more confidence in the antifreeze route.

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Old 09-13-2010, 04:31 PM   #138
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Old 09-13-2010, 05:56 PM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
dz' has a classic...

the water filter is IN the moen fixture, not under the sink.

and water can still flow BIG TIME out the fixture without the filter/head

((it looks like large open water pipe when flowing))

i've blown out the lines with air/compressor and filled them with antifreeze solo (1 person)

but my arms are very very long.

lots of wayz to put sausage in da'tubez.

cheers
2air'
We may be talking about 2 different filters in the classic here. My 07 has Delta hardware throughout and the fliter housing is separate from the fixture and hangs on the undersink cabinet wall. It has a spin off housing with a replaceable cartridge (PUR filter). Pur and Delta must have a supplier relationship. It's obviously made for the faucet as it has a fiberoptic line which fits into the faucet for cartridge life indication. It has no shutoff from the rest of the water supply. I guess I'll remove the filter cartridge and spin the housing back on and run A/F through it. We get regular and lengthy hard freezes here.

My issue with just blowing lines is there is still always a chance that a drop or two remains in the faucet valve and is just enough to crack the plastic valve inserts. I had this happen once. That's why I use the pink stuff exclusively now.
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Old 09-13-2010, 06:24 PM   #140
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
We may be talking about 2 different filters in the classic here. My 07 has...
good info, always pays to specify the bits in yer stream ...

the 07 part/manual still shows moen, while the 08 shows the delta bits...


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apparently these manuals aren't exactly correct...

still the 08 details winterizing nicely on page f-11? or so,

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which is why threads like this aren't always useful...

if i understand what is in YOUR manual

it says the filter needs to be IN for flow,

but once removed the water will back drain with the valve open.

so it's not clear that PINK will flow into every orifice...

how bout take'n a look IN da' book?

sometimes these things ARE covered and useful as written.

it's important to realize that problems in some eras (copper plumbing)

may not apply to others (pex plumbing) so procedures vary.

and if a few drops of water become a issue we'z all in trouble.

maybe just take it south?

that's my plan

cheers
2air'
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