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Old 10-16-2016, 10:46 AM   #43
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Never pressurize the system until someone has opened one of the faucets. I then give short bursts until they indicate just droplets are coming out of the faucet. We start with the closest faucet to the city connection and work forward. When pumping in the antifreeze we open the closest faucet to the pump until antifreeze comes out and move from there.
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Old 10-16-2016, 11:36 AM   #44
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first time winterizing on my own

Well - I did something stupid. Welcome your thoughts...

I did everything right - drained the water heater, fresh tank, low point drains, etc. but forgot to set the bypass when I started flushing antifreeze through the lines. Cold water flowed very quickly with pink stuff. Hot water was VERY slow and eventually brought pink through the lines. I'm imagining some pink got in the HWheater which isn't a big deal, but do I need to do it again to make sure there's plenty of pink in the HW path in the lines?

I was so psyched until I started driving home and realized I forgot to do the one thing I was telling myself not to forget all week! 😕
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Old 10-16-2016, 11:48 AM   #45
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If you got pink stuff out of each hot water faucet while the bypass was not set you may have filled the hot water heater with stuff. That would have required a coupe of gallons of antifreeze but is OK. I would set the bypass, open a faucet and turn the pump on for a few seconds. That hopefully will move some antifreeze into the bypass valve. If you are still concerned then pump some additional antifreeze into the system with a faucet open and the bypass set to winter.

The plastic line are not that susceptible to freezing as they can handle the expansion of water while freezing. You want to make sure antifreeze is in all the metal faucets, pump head, input filter, filter can under sink if there, and bypass valve.

If you have blown out the system the city connection was purged of water while that took place.

I would drain the hot water heater now or you will have to run gallons of water through it in the spring. While draining the heater put about 18 ins. of a 1/4 in hose, in the drain hole to the bottom of the tank and draped outside. This should start a siphon and drain the last 1/2 gallon off the bottom of the tank. If the siphon does not start itself you know what to do, but politically correctness precludes you from instructions.

I always drain the bottom of the tank anyway to get some of the scale that collects on the bottom of the tank
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Old 10-16-2016, 11:53 AM   #46
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Thanks HowieE.
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Old 10-16-2016, 11:57 AM   #47
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SSM, personally I'd close the bypass, and push some more AF thru the lines and drain HW tank for the winter. I'd have to re-read the manual but is seems they recommend leaving it empty. I'd also flush the tank with one of those plastic flush wands.

Good luck.

Bob
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Old 10-16-2016, 12:01 PM   #48
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Agreed. Will do, Bob.
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Old 10-16-2016, 10:16 PM   #49
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How does one hand pump the antifreeze into the sewer clean out and the city water fill? What device are you using?


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Old 10-17-2016, 09:04 AM   #50
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Hey Fly. I think you're making this harder than it is. There's no need to pump antifreeze into the dump cleanout. Just pour " some " down the toilet as well as some down any sink. That will just put SOME on the upstream side of the dump valves. I don't do this. I pour some down each drain to fill the traps against freezing and see no need to add to the actual tank. I simply blow the lines with my compressor and don't pump any antifreeze through the plumbing either. I also do not put any into the city water fill. I drain the fresh tank and leave the valve open.

Been working for me for 10 years of northeast winters.
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Old 10-17-2016, 10:00 AM   #51
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I understand emptying the water tank, blowing out the fresh water lines, emptying the water heater, and putting RV antifreeze in each P trap, but how does one empty the water pump? Just run it dry for a few seconds? I presume I should do that before blowing out the fresh water lines?

Second, when blowing out the black tank flush line, this just moves any residual water that might be in the flush line into the black tank itself, via the shower head?

Lastly, my understanding is that the water heater drain valve is actually above the bottom of the tank. In other words, simply draining it by gravity will not completely empty it. Is this true? Is the residual water an issue for freeze expansion?

I would appreciate knowing if the above is correct. We had our dealer winterize our Airstream this year, but we plan to do ourselves in the future.

Thanks!
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Old 10-17-2016, 10:14 AM   #52
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Don't forget that water can get trapped in the bypass lines to the hot water heater. Now I make sure that I operate all of the valves there while blowing the lines out. I also do the same while adding the antifreeze. That way I know that there is no water in that section. Make sure you drain the hot water tank first though. Pulling the plug on the tank while blowing the lines out can be a rude awakening.

I also make sure that antifreeze comes out of the low point drains just to ensure that no water settled into the lower recesses after blowing it out. Just make sure that in the spring time you run water out to purge the system of the antifreeze.

I also run antifreeze through the outside faucet.

One year I forgot to blow the lines out in the bypass section and the fitting on the bypass line came off. It was an easy fix, but required a trip to the dealer since I didn't have a crimping tool.

Where I live minus 30-40C can be normal for several weeks in winter.
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Old 10-17-2016, 12:58 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Jones View Post
I understand emptying the water tank, blowing out the fresh water lines, emptying the water heater, and putting RV antifreeze in each P trap, but how does one empty the water pump? Just run it dry for a few seconds? I presume I should do that before blowing out the fresh water lines? {Disc the output & put a rag down and turn in on for 5-10 seconds...a couple of times. There isn't much water there and the rag will catch it. I also manually blow on the supply side any water back into the CW tank. Couple of lung fulls seems to do the trick}

Second, when blowing out the black tank flush line, this just moves any residual water that might be in the flush line into the black tank itself, via the shower head? { the interior and exterior shower heads should be disconnected and blown out with the other faucets. Blowing out the black flush tank line should push the eater into the BW tank which needs to be drained.}

Lastly, my understanding is that the water heater drain valve is actually above the bottom of the tank. In other words, simply draining it by gravity will not completely empty it. Is this true? Is the residual water an issue for freeze expansion? {my remembrance of reading the WH cut sheet is that a little residual is fine. I flush out the tank with water using a plastic flush wand to remove any sediment. I have heard of folks using that tool to connect to shop vac to get the residual, but IMO you're OK with some remaining}

I would appreciate knowing if the above is correct. We had our dealer winterize our Airstream this year, but we plan to do ourselves in the future.

Thanks!
Good Luck

Bob

p.s. check out my post #13. There are a couple of general attachments for the winterization process. If you send me PM I'll send you my check list...maybe a little too detailed but but I wanted to make sure I didn't overlook anything.

b
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Old 10-17-2016, 01:09 PM   #54
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Water expansion is the problem. When in a confined space it has no where to expand to and will exert enough force to crack / break it's containment. In an open virtually empty space like an empty water tank, water heater tank it has plenty of space to expand. Copper water lines will freeze and the copper has no give to it, therefore will crack. Modern PEX plumbing is a bit more forgiving. I think the PEX as a little expansion give to it. The fittings that are used do not and are the weak link in the system. So in the short term soft freeze the PEX just might be OK. Some of the other materials maybe not so much.
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Old 10-17-2016, 04:46 PM   #55
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You would be amazed at how much water is remaining in the HW tank after all of the lines and gravity plugs have been drained. I ran my compressor to the trailer for a half hour and no water came from the faucets or the gravity drain lines even when they were exercised individually. I then remembered about the tank plug and took it out. Try it next time. I'm sure my tank isn't that different from others.
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Old 10-17-2016, 04:59 PM   #56
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First off ....thanks to all of you for your advise!
As you know I questioned the compatabiltiy in towing with our Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi towing a 2017 FC 28'.

Our 2nd truck is a Ram 2500 Cummins with full tow package and air brakes.
I only mentioned the 1500 as I knew most may say just use the 2500. We all really enjoy traveling in the 1500 Longhorn.

So I will set up both trucks for the airstream any consider the topography of our travels. For what it's worth....The airstream mechanic and our truck mechanic both agree that the 1500 Hemi will tow it just fine. I'm just glad I will have the choice. Again thanks for your input and we are psyched to get our FC next month!!!
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