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Old 09-22-2016, 08:05 PM   #15
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first time winterizing on my own

I connect my air compressor to the fresh water city inlet with 60psi pressure and blow everything out. First the faucets/shower, then the hot water heater then finally the low point drains.

Takes multiple air tank refills by my little compressor but it leaves no room for doubt that all the lines are completely dry. Add 3 gallons of rv anti-freeze to p-traps, toilet and grey water tank and you're done. Easy peasy.
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Old 09-22-2016, 08:13 PM   #16
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The one thing that "some" people forget…ok it was me

After getting pretty darn good at winterizing by doing it year after year, I forgot to purge the water out of my toilets spray wand.
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Old 09-22-2016, 08:40 PM   #17
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wulfraat. Am I reading your comment wrong? add 3 gallons to p traps and toilet/balck tank?

If I blow out the lines it would seem that a cup full in each trap would be adequate. An empty black tank and grey water tank would not have much water left to freeze.

I agree you should get some antifreeze into the pump.

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Old 09-22-2016, 09:26 PM   #18
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first time winterizing on my own

3 gallons?
No way.
Maybe 3 cups or 3 pints...
1.5 gallons gets pink in the entire system.


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Old 09-22-2016, 10:17 PM   #19
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first time winterizing on my own

I take no chances. A gallon goes in the black water tank and 2 gallons go in the grey water tank to ensure the waste vales don't freeze due to some residual water that may make its way out of the tanks while in transit...

P-Traps being filled with rv anti freeze is a byproduct...

It's like $3 bucks a gallon. Cheap insurance.

(Note that I do not use anti freeze in the fresh water plumbing - that system gets blown out as mentioned above... I also disconnect the hoses to/from the fresh water pump and leave those off for the winter once the system has been blown out)
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Old 09-23-2016, 10:30 AM   #20
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I guess the difference is Colorado vs. Mississippi.
I figure there is some residual in the black and gray tanks because I ran pink through the faucets and toilet through the p-traps into the tanks.
Anyway, less than 2 gallons gets it all done.
Even at $4 a gallon $8 is cheap insurance.
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Old 09-23-2016, 10:45 AM   #21
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I wired my water pump with plug-in connections. I plan to remove the pump when I winterize this go around. I blow all the lines and dump some AF into the traps. Been good for 9 years.
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Old 09-23-2016, 12:05 PM   #22
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The reason the dealer mentioned the city water connection is to ensure that leg of the water system has a chance to drain. If one was to just drain the trailer via the low point drains and having opened each faucet you have to have a way to release the vacuum on the city water connection. it is the old finger on top of a straw filled with water trick.

Now that said I would strongly suggest you blow out the system with compressed air supplied at the city connection and pump anti freeze into the system, with the hot water drained and the heater bypassed closed, connecting before the filter. This will use less than a gallon of antifreeze and guarantee you covered all bases.

Considering where you live and how cold it gets there I would use a 1/2 pint of auto antifreeze in the traps and well drained waste tanks.
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Old 09-23-2016, 02:16 PM   #23
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When I winterize I do the drain/blow/rv antifreeze as everyone suggests. But, mostly I just drain and pump in the antifreeze. Not much blowing.

I found one more necessary step for my 25' Safari. In this trailer, from the water inlet hose connection to the first low point drain is about 8'. The pressure regulator is just before the drain, where the waterline is elevated an inch or so where it connects to the regulator. Since it is elevated some water is trapped between the regulator and the inlet no matter how much air I blow through. When I pump antifreeze into the plumbing using the fresh water pump winterizing kit it does not fill this pipe, since it still has air and water trapped inside it. Because of this trap I have to force some antifreeze through the water inlet. I pour some antifreeze into a hose then blow it through till antifreeze comes out the low point drain.
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Old 09-23-2016, 02:35 PM   #24
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I used to just chase the water out with the antifreeze.
Someone suggested that the antifreeze might become diluted and be less effective.
I'm not sure the antifreeze would be diluted enough to matter, but I use air to push the water out of the lines before putting the pink stuff in with a winterizing T next to the pump.
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:32 PM   #25
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my trailer is small ...but even with my 290,i put gallons of antifreeze in the potable water tank....drain the hot w tank,put it on bypass... i put on the pump and run the a.Fr thru all the pipes,open all faucets,let it run pink,flush toilet ..briefly open the pipe to the hot w tank... and then drain what is left in the potable water tank...leave all faucets open..put some A.Fr in sinks and shower drain..then comes spring i flush everything with fresh water many times..to make sure its all clean..add a bit of klorox to the fresh w tank and flush it all out several times...i never had a frozen pipe....
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Old 10-11-2016, 11:12 PM   #26
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first time winterizing on my own

I drain all holding tanks, including the water heater. Bypass the water heater. Use the onboard pump to inject the RV anti freeze into the system. Making sure all faucets run pink on both the hot and cold water side. Flush the toilet until the bowl shows pink. Leave about an inch of AF in the toilet bowl.
Just bought 4 gallons of AF for $10, Not very expensive. I close the black and grey water valves before injecting the AF. I pour AF into all drains. Usually just keep pouring the remainder of the AF into the drains. Putting enough in the grey and black water tanks to completely cover the seal on the valves. Not sure what the minimum amount it takes to cover the valve seals but for $10 I just put the remainder of the 4 gallons into the drains after filling all of the lines.
I use a portable pump to inject AF into the city water inlet as well as the black water flush.
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Old 10-12-2016, 05:53 AM   #27
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The factory method is to blow out the lines, they do not add anti-freeze to the fresh water system. They do put AF in the traps and some into the black and grey tanks. They did tell me and emphasized to blow out the blank tank wash inlet.

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Old 10-12-2016, 03:17 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
I drain all holding tanks, including the water heater. Bypass the water heater. Use the onboard pump to inject the RV anti freeze into the system. Making sure all faucets run pink on both the hot and cold water side. Flush the toilet until the bowl shows pink. Leave about an inch of AF in the toilet bowl.
Just bought 4 gallons of AF for $10, Not very expensive. I close the black and grey water valves before injecting the AF. I pour AF into all drains. Usually just keep pouring the remainder of the AF into the drains. Putting enough in the grey and black water tanks to completely cover the seal on the valves. Not sure what the minimum amount it takes to cover the valve seals but for $10 I just put the remainder of the 4 gallons into the drains after filling all of the lines.
I use a portable pump to inject AF into the city water inlet as well as the black water flush.
Thank you TG for your reply. I did everything that you mentioned including using a hand pump for the sewer clean out and the city water fill. While I added AF in all the drains I didn't think to put some in the grey and black water tanks although I thoroughly drained them. Since I haven't taken our AS to the storage facility yet maybe I'll add a gallon or two to each of the tanks. The other thing I did that you didn't mention (and I assume you didn't do) is use a small electric air pump to force out any water in the lines prior to pumping the AF through the system. Is there a specific reason you don't include that step - seems to be a popular approach??
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