Originally Posted by John Greenlee
I have a 1966
Overlander Land Yacht. I used compressed air to blow out the fresh water lines. My rv'er friend said I have to drain the water heater. I cannot find a drain or plug on it. It is a bit downhill to the fresh water inlet. I guess it drains there to the level of the cold water inlet on the tank. Is there another way to drain it?
John: I own a 1964
19' Globe Trotter, which has the same 2/3rds width rear bath and likely the same water system as your 1966
Overlander. I think others with slightly newer trailers have hot water heaters that feature a separate drain plug which our original water heaters do not have, hence the confusion.
Here's what I do to winterize per the manual:
- raise front end of trailer to highest position with front trailer jack.
- open all faucets and open the two drain valves in rear service center, to let water flow out by gravity. Open the water heater pressure relief valve.
- disconnet near toilet the bathrom hand sprayer hose and drain in manually
- lower front end of trailer to lowest position and raise again to highest to get more water out.
- when water stops flowing and front end is still high, attach air hose to city water inlet at trailer rear end and blow out system with compressed air. I leave open farthest faucet (kitchen sink in my trailer) and close all others. Then open and close faucets so only one faucet at a time has compressed air blowing out of it as I work my way towards rear end of trailer. Let each faucet spit out water until it stops spitting.
- close all faucets and let compressed air come out the drain for the lower cold water inlet pipe to the water heater tank. There is a valve at the rear center of my trailer which drains the cold water inlet line to the water heater. I leave this valve open all the time while draining water.
- pour pink antifreeze in all drain traps.
- leave open the two water system drain valves for any leftover water, hoping that water might evaporate in out dry Colorado climate.
-CLOSE the water heater pressure relief valve for the winter. I left it open over last winter and had to replace it this Spring because even when in the closed position it easily let city water pour out. It lost its springiness due to being in the open position for 6 months. Replacing the water heater pressure relief valve was a major PITA. Learning through stupidity is no fun.
I think, but don't know for sure, that the rear facing cold water inlet to the hot water heater is at the bottom of the water heater interior tank. I know for the past 3 years I haven't had any problems the next season by draining my plumbing system this way. My water heater is original to the 1964
trailer, so it has been successfully drained for 40 years. My black water tank has already been emptied, so I don't have to drain it when winterizing the potable water system.
Hope this helps you.