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Old 10-11-2004, 11:31 AM   #1
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Compressors and winterization

Can someone please recommend an appropriate compressor to use for winterizing? Schu's News recommends no more than 60 PSI and the RV blow out plug I purchased says no more than 50 PSI.

Also, I intend to put antifreeze in the system by disconnecting the in-flow line to the water pump from the fresh water tank and connecting the antifreeze feed to the pump. Not going to connect the pump converter kit because I would have to cut the in-flow line. What am I suppose to do to the fresh water tank other than drain it, particularly the fresh water tank fill?

I intend to drain the hot water tank and by-pass it in the antifreeze process. Should I blow it out? Do I need to do anythning else to it?

Does blowing out the lines through the land water connect really force all the water out the system?

First winterization and fell pretty good about it, but sure don't want to make any mistakes!

Will blow-out the black tank rinse.

Oh, why antifreeze AND line blow out?

Thanks!
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Old 10-11-2004, 11:35 AM   #2
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Unless you need the compressor for something else, why don't you just buy a portable air tank and fill it at the local service station.

As for blowing out before adding antifreeze, you want to avoid diluting the antifreeze and reducing it's effectivness.
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Old 10-11-2004, 11:53 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by markdoane
Unless you need the compressor for something else, why don't you just buy a portable air tank and fill it at the local service station.

As for blowing out before adding antifreeze, you want to avoid diluting the antifreeze and reducing it's effectivness.
A portable tank has insufficient air volume to clear the lines. In theory, if all the lines are blown clear, you will not need the antifreeze. In practice water that remains in the line will collect at some low point, freeze, and burst the line.

This would be more of a concern to me if I had copper plumbing. As I have PEX tubing and fittings I just blow mine out with a portable Delta 2 gal. compressor (which I carry on board) and it works fine.

Mark
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Old 10-11-2004, 12:07 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by j54mark
A portable tank has insufficient air volume to clear the lines. In theory, if all the lines are blown clear, you will not need the antifreeze. In practice water that remains in the line will collect at some low point, freeze, and burst the line.

This would be more of a concern to me if I had copper plumbing. As I have PEX tubing and fittings I just blow mine out with a portable Delta 2 gal. compressor (which I carry on board) and it works fine.

Mark
I guess I should clarify. A 2 gal tank is probably too small. You can buy a 10 gal protable tank from Sears for $30, and that would be big enough.
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Old 11-27-2004, 09:35 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luckydc

Also, I intend to put antifreeze in the system by disconnecting the in-flow line to the water pump from the fresh water tank and connecting the antifreeze feed to the pump. Drain fresh water tank. Put a cup of anti-freeze in each drain.

I intend to drain the hot water tank and by-pass it in the antifreeze process. Read instructions on anti-freeze container.
If you do the things mentioned above you should be okay. I have never blown out the lines with air. The anti-freeze takes care of that.
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Old 11-28-2004, 07:13 AM   #6
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If you buy a good air compressor at Lowe's or Home Depot that you don't need, you'll find that it comes in handy for a number of things. On mine, I can adjust the output air pressure down to 40 or 50, and let it blow out the lines and not worry that something will rupture.

When I drained the water heater and then put air on the system another gallon or two of water came out of the tank.

Blowing it out and putting antifreeze in is for people who wear a belt and suspenders - and for people who would rather spend the extra $5 than replace frozen pipes and stuff.

Neal
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Old 11-28-2004, 08:36 AM   #7
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Adaquate air compressor

You can buy an adaquate aircompressor for less than $100. It is air volume and velocity, not "pressure" that removes water from your system. If you buy a compressor with a two or three gallon tank and a regulator it will do everything you need. As you blow out each trailer location, the tank will of course empty faster than the compressor refill. When this happens, simply close your water faucit or other valve and let the storage tank build up again. Repeat this process until no more water comes from the valve.

If, and I mean IF, you take the time to remove all of the water, it will not be necessary to purge the system with antifreeze. It will still be necessary however, to pour a cup or so of antifreeze into each trap.

In one of the previous posts someone mentioned blowing the liquid from each trap and leaving them empty. DO NOT DO THIS! The traps are designed to prevent holding tank gasses (smells) from entering your trailer. If you leave them empty of fluid you'll soon think that an army of rats died in your trailer.

Also, don't forget your batteries. If they are in a discharged state the electrolyte will freeze and destroy them. If you live in a very cold climate you might want to remove them and store in a heated area.
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Old 11-28-2004, 11:06 AM   #8
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When buying/using air compressors, it is important to use the non-oil based compressor.

Ken
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