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Old 11-13-2014, 12:27 PM   #15
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One thing I haven't thought of before, is to do the blowing-out of the pink stuff in the spring before adding fresh water. I would just run water at each faucet until it wasn't pink any more, but my coffee would taste like crap for a month!
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:30 PM   #16
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I've said this before and I'll say it again. I winterize by blowing out the lines, period. When I bought our first 1999 Airstream 14 years ago I called the factory for their recommendation. They said they just blow out the lines. I said it gets real cold here in Wyoming (minus 24 degrees night before last). They said it gets real cold in Ohio also. I've never had a problem from omitting antifreeze when I winterize.
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Old 11-20-2014, 02:31 AM   #17
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Update: It was a project - I had to take out the shelf and knee wall that were connected to the closet floor to loosen and lift the floor - but I got it out. *Now* I can get to the pump intake! Just waiting on arrival of compressor, bypass valve, etc. It has been going down to mid 20s all this week - I've gone through a complete tank of LP to keep AS @ 55 degrees. By the time I get the parts to fix it this weekend the temps will be back in the mid 70s. Timing is everything - and mine sucks! ;-)
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Old 11-10-2015, 09:16 PM   #18
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quick question on draining water ...

Hi all, strangest thing .. my 2nd year of ownership and draining the water tank/system preparing for some Nor Cal freezes ...
last year, just opened the valves and water drained out by itself, this year have to run the water pump to push water out ! any thoughts ?
'72 Sov ..

cheers
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Old 11-10-2015, 10:25 PM   #19
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I just winterized our 27 FB FC. I did it the same way I winterized our old sob for twenty years in Portland, with no issues. I picked up 6 gallons of antifreeze from camping world, then dumped them into my almost empty fresh water storage tank. I emptied the hot water heater using the nylon plug, then, Using the pump, I ran water through all the sinks, shower, toilet, until everything ran red. Done. Yes some of the water in the tank dilutes the antifreeze, but it's unlikely to get to 50 below where I live. Mike get get down to the mid twenties though.

Mike
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Old 11-13-2015, 06:12 PM   #20
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Here on the eastside we don't get real hard freezes. I've winterized by draining the tanks and the lines. I drain and bypass the water heater. I blow out the lines using my tire inflator. It takes a while since it isn't high pressure but I let it run until the air coming out of the taps is mostly dry. I pour some anti freeze in the tanks and traps. That's it.

It has worked well for me. If I still lived in Minnesota I'd do things differently.
Works for me in Colorado Mountains where lows get below zero. I drain the water tank also and disconnect both sides of the water pump and run it for a few seconds to run out the water.
I run one line at a time and run each repeatedly until there is nothing but air coming out. With the water tank by passed, it only takes a few seconds to build up pressure to 40 pounds even with a tire inflator. Pay particular attention to the toilet, tight clearance and little plastic parts equal freeze damage unless all the water is out. I run it five or so times until only air is coming out.
On my trailer, there is a drain in the water line near the hot water tank. I open that drain and blow out the line.
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Old 11-13-2015, 06:25 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antique Pedaler View Post
I've said this before and I'll say it again. I winterize by blowing out the lines, period. When I bought our first 1999 Airstream 14 years ago I called the factory for their recommendation. They said they just blow out the lines. I said it gets real cold here in Wyoming (minus 24 degrees night before last). They said it gets real cold in Ohio also. I've never had a problem from omitting antifreeze when I winterize.
The key is using enough air pressure and blowing enough volume of air through the system to dry it out. My dealer uses air only but he warned me that a low pressure 12 volt pump is insufficient to provide enough air volume to remove all the droplets of water that may be in the piping and can drain back to a low spot in the piping and ultimately freeze. His method opens up all the water valves at one time. After opening the valves he connects an air system that can supply 90 psi and will blow air through the trailer for about a half hour to dry it out.

If you have any doubts that the some lurking water may still be present, then use the anti-freeze as a double check to make sure that nothing is left in the system to freeze.

I'm sure in your case, you are getting the system pretty well blown out.

Jack
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Old 11-13-2015, 09:18 PM   #22
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Our 25gal two stage compressor supplies a steady 35psi with the tank regulator set at 125psi, it usually takes about 1/2hr to dry the system.


Bob
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Old 11-14-2015, 07:16 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by openroad118 View Post
One thing I haven't thought of before, is to do the blowing-out of the pink stuff in the spring before adding fresh water. I would just run water at each faucet until it wasn't pink any more, but my coffee would taste like crap for a month!
I have not had that problem, and I'm pretty persnickety about my coffee. (I home roast my own beans).

I also run water through the system until it's clear, and I flush. My fresh water tank four or five times before using that for drinking.

Mike
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Old 11-14-2015, 01:52 PM   #24
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Cool ummm...... Caffeinated

Caffeinated......Have you seen the movie with the same name?

....if you love coffee, it's pretty kool. It's on Amazon Prime.

Bob
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Old 05-09-2016, 11:11 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by jcanavera View Post
The key is using enough air pressure and blowing enough volume of air through the system to dry it out. My dealer uses air only but he warned me that a low pressure 12 volt pump is insufficient to provide enough air volume to remove all the droplets of water that may be in the piping and can drain back to a low spot in the piping and ultimately freeze. His method opens up all the water valves at one time. After opening the valves he connects an air system that can supply 90 psi and will blow air through the trailer for about a half hour to dry it out.

If you have any doubts that the some lurking water may still be present, then use the anti-freeze as a double check to make sure that nothing is left in the system to freeze.

I'm sure in your case, you are getting the system pretty well blown out.

Jack
That's the way I plan to do it. Not messing with anti-freeze and I think I will be fine. The key will be to have a nice volume of air from a GOOD air compressor.
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:07 AM   #26
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That's the way I plan to do it. Not messing with anti-freeze and I think I will be fine. The key will be to have a nice volume of air from a GOOD air compressor.
That's the way I've done it.....EXCEPT....the only RV/AF is in the 'traps', sink & shower.
1/4 cup of Crisco in the toilet bowl to keep the flapper subtle & un-stuck.

150psi Compressor supplying a steady 35psi on a open system for 1/2hr


Don't forget to blow out the sink sprayer & shower flex line, (I remove the head.)

Bob
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