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crazylev · 08-16-2004, 10:33 AM

Hello.

I know no one wants to think about ......winter.... this early, but this has been on my mind:

On our '04 19' CCD (probably same as on Bambi-Safari):

I bought the Camco winterizing kit (http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...13&skunum=6279) from Camping World and was wondering how one goes about hooking it, or something like it to the pump.

Here is what I see in my pump/water area: A brass elbow comes out of the fresh tank, followed by what seems to be a four or five inch piece of RIGID white tube, followed by another elbow that goes into the intake/strainer of the pump.

I can also see that the intake side is the side that turns a certain way to disengage it from the pump.

From here I am trying to figure out what to hook up and where so that I can pump tequilla...er... anti-freeze throughout the water lines.

maybe I did not need to get the Camco set-up.

Any help would be appreciated. Let me know how you hook it up.

Jonathan

rluhr · 08-16-2004, 10:58 AM

Jonathan, the little valve included with the kit needs to be spliced into the pump intake line at any convenient point. That's the "one-time installation" referred to on the Camping World website.

Once you have it in place, follow the basic winterizing procedure (i.e., drain the fresh and hot water tanks, open the water heater bypass.)

Then, attach the siphon line from the kit, turn the valve, and stick the open end of the siphon line into a gallon of tequila. Run the water pump and open the faucets one at a time, till you see margaritas pouring out of each one. Make sure you remember the toilet, shower head, and outside water fill too.

You'll probably need two gallons of tequila for your trailer, BTW, assuming you have the hot water heater bypass kit.

74Argosy24MH · 08-16-2004, 11:01 AM

Not much room to work but it needs to go between the tank and pump. Turn the valve one way and it draws fresh water, the other antifreeze out of the bottle.

John

john hd · 08-16-2004, 02:29 PM

hey lev,

here is how i did mine with pics.

http://www.airforums.com/forum...ead.php?t=7222

john

crazylev · 08-16-2004, 03:01 PM

John HD.

An excelent post indeed!!! I really like the compressor adaptor. I am going to go to Home depot to see if I can find the two fittings you used to make the connection to the AS, unless you have that info, id be gratefull.

Thanks again for you informative post.

Jonathan

john hd · 08-16-2004, 03:09 PM

hey lev

ace hardware might be a better choice, that is where i got my stuff at.

as i recall, it is just a male hose to 3/4 npt adaptor with a 3/4 to 1/2 bushing screwed into it. then i screwed the air hose fitting into that.

john

crazylev · 08-16-2004, 03:14 PM

John HD.

I really like this method, as it becomes a one person job to winterize, instead of two. Not to long ago I picked up a Porter-Cable 2.5 gallon 150 PSI compressor. So if I set this thing to 60PSI I should be OK.

Thanks again for your help.

Jonathan

Chuck · 08-16-2004, 03:21 PM

John, I wanna know what all those other fittings are in your system...looks like copper joints w/ some kind of copper crimp rings

john hd · 08-16-2004, 04:26 PM

chuck

that is the dreaded PB or polybutylene pipe!

a later version with the copper bands and elbows. not as prone to leaks as the earlier versions with white plastic fittings. but can still fail!

here is a clip from another site dealing with PB pipe.

"When the product first came out, acetal plastic fittings, made of a hard gray (sometimes white) plastic,
were inserted into the pipe and clamped in place with an aluminum (and later a copper) band connecting
the joints. These fittings were prone to cracking and leaks due to the different expansion characteristics
of the plastics. As a result, metal fittings made of copper or brass were introduced. Although the metal
fittings are more reliable, they still may suffer failures. The tools used to crimp these connectors needed
to be carefully calibrated. Recent installations of PB piping systems use compression fittings that often
have a plastic or metal nut to secure the seal. So far, this has solved the problem of leaks at the pipe
connections."

the pipe is printed with the words "vanguard plastic thermoguard 100 psi w.p."

i have been fortunate to have no problems with it so far....pex it ain't!

john

Boondocker · 10-19-2005, 08:30 AM

Im not sure I understand the need for the special fitting to draw antifreeze from the bottle. Is there any reason not to just pour it into the holding tank?

Chuck · 10-19-2005, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gen Disarray

Im not sure I understand the need for the special fitting to draw antifreeze from the bottle. Is there any reason not to just pour it into the holding tank?

well...you don't "neeeeeeed" one; it just makes it convenient.

You could just pour the antifreeze into the holding tank, and pump it from there, but you might need more antifreeze than you would otherwise need, in order to get the level of fluid up high enough for the pump to draw it from the tank....and some people don't like the idea of putting antifreeze into the tank, because it is difficult to get it out of there completely, and can leave a funny taste. but some people do it that way. Its easy to flush the pipes; not so easy to thoroughly flush the tank.

last year, I just disconnected the intake line on the pump, and it was just barely long enough to get it into a gallon jug. It was a bit of a PITA. maybe next time, I'll add the kit, and then "next next" time, it'll be easy.

crazylev · 10-19-2005, 08:56 AM

Rodney.

You can pour the anti freeze in the fresh water tank. The downside your fresh water will pick up the taste of the anti freeze until the FW tank has been filled/re-filled a few times. It also uses more anti freeze because of the large space in the tank. Add to this the foamy water syndrome until all the AF is flushed out...

The advantage of the valve job thingie is that you by-pass the fresh tank, and are pulling from the container of AF, leaving your FW tank, well, fresh....

Jonathan

**jcanavera** · 10-19-2005, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gen Disarray

Im not sure I understand the need for the special fitting to draw antifreeze from the bottle. Is there any reason not to just pour it into the holding tank?

I'm an old time put it in the holding tank winterizer, until I bought my Classic which gives me easy access to the pump. I now have a hose with a fitting that goes on the suction side of the pump which allows a direct pump from the bottle.

I really like doing it this way for two reasons. First the pickup in the water tank is not always at the direct bottom. This usually caused me to purchase additional antifreeze to allow it to hit the pickup line. Second it's nice not to have to flush that tank. Quite honestly I never had a problem with the water having a taste because during the flushing process in the spring, I usually sanitized the tank also.

The biggest reason though for considering not using the fresh water tank is the fact that some tank drains do not allow all of the water in the tank to exit. In that case, anti-freeze poured into the tank can mix with the residual water left and you have the potential of having your freeze protection reduced by an unknown factor.

Now I used the tank method for over 22 years and with 3 different trailers and never had a freeze problem. I probably attribute that to the fact that I usually added 4 gallons of antifreeze into the tank (overkill) and any reduction in the freeze protection was not enough to threaten my water lines.

The other interesting fact to remember is, if I remember my 7th grade science class, water displays an interesting property in that it expands once its temperature hits 38 degrees and below. Eventually as it gets colder below the freeze point, water in fact reverses the expansion and then contracts. So if you are going to get freeze damage, it will occur early in the freeze cycle. Not at -30.

Jack

FlyFishInn · 10-22-2005, 12:33 PM

Should one remove the water filter cartidge?

**jcanavera** · 10-22-2005, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FlyFishInn

Should one remove the water filter cartidge?

I do.

Jack

joatmon · 10-22-2005, 04:37 PM

My owner's manual says to.

joatmon · 10-22-2005, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Machine

You have given out too much Reputation in the last 24 hours, try again later.

Sorry JCanavera, I tried.

loreepeter · 10-26-2005, 06:55 AM

using compressed air can hurt the toilet valve if not held open while compressed air enters system. beware.

PharmGeek · 01-22-2014, 11:57 AM

I successfully winterized my new Airstream for the first time last night on the fly...

had not planned to this year - instead just run furnace on the occassional cold snaps...but furnace has developed a problem with the electrical board and we are in a cold snap right now down to the teens at night even down here in Alabama..

So I got a bit paranoid and went out and bought 3 gallons of the prestone pink stuff...figured out how to use the existing incoming line to the pump and get it out and use it...will be ordering the valve kit TODAY to make this quicker...

drained all low point drains (5 on my trailer believe it or not), pumped out any residual water using water pump, emptied water from holding tanks, closed them...then sucked in the pink stuff, then opened up each faucet, shower, ran toilet, and dont forget outdoor shower...then filled the traps, turned off pump...have left off intake hose and will await my winterizing kit to quickly install for easy use.

I used this winter season already quite a bit of propane due to a good number of cold snaps such that I could have paid to winterize 4 or 5 times and we are still in winter...

I did not put any in the fresh tank and I bypassed the hot water heater...

It was really very very easy once I got the intake line out (a PITA in the tight spot where the water pump is located)...it will be extremely easy next time with winterizing kit installed.

And it just gave me the warm and fuzzy feeling of safety from any freezing damage and also that I did not have to run my furnace...oh and it is broken at the moment anyway (pending electrical board replacement very soon)

I had a buddy who owns a white box camper, who has had his stored for a while now this winter season, and told me alls he did was open the low point drains....no antifreeze in traps, no air to blow out lines....

I fear he IS going to have damage....

took me 2 gallons (thats 10 bucks) and a half hour (will take me 10 min or less next time....and what is the downside?

Actually that was my reason for searching the forums today to see if having this stuff in the lines only (not in hot water heater or fresh tank) would have taste concerns etc? As far as I read through the threads it easily is flushed out and all is back to square one...except for the 10 bucks and the 10 minutes to get the job done...

Protagonist · 01-22-2014, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PharmGeek

Actually that was my reason for searching the forums today to see if having this stuff in the lines only (not in hot water heater or fresh tank) would have taste concerns etc? As far as I read through the threads it easily is flushed out and all is back to square one...except for the 10 bucks and the 10 minutes to get the job done...

When you un-winterize is a good time to disinfect your freshwater tank and lines, so after you flush the pink stuff out, you'll be putting chlorinated water in. That should kill any antifreeze taste that remains.

Not that it's a problem even if you don't disinfect. Metal plumbing components don't absorb taste or odors, and as for the plastic components, food-grade plastic IS food-grade partly because it doesn't absorb taste or odor (and partly because it doesn't leach chemicals, either). It's chemically inert.