Antifreeze question

jcf48 · 10-29-2006, 03:33 PM

I have a new Safari 28' that I am in process of winterizing. So far so good until I got to the step of putting antifreeze into the H2O system. The water pump is under the refrigerator and the pump inlet port is on the backside of the pump. What kind of hose or connection do I need to hook into the pump inlet port (with the other end in the antifreeze bottle)? Or, is there a better way to get antifreeze into the system? Thanks for the help!

LI Pets · 10-29-2006, 03:43 PM

You can cut a T into the intake line and put a valve on it so it is always ready to use.

Than add any type hose on that to draw the anti freeze in.

dwightdi · 10-29-2006, 04:04 PM

just use a piece of clear PVC that will fit over the inlet. Use it and take it back out till next year. Remember to put some in the fresh water tank because you never get all the water out of it and you do not want the residual to freeze.

enduroryda · 10-29-2006, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwightdi

Remember to put some in the fresh water tank because you never get all the water out of it and you do not want the residual to freeze.

Really?? I opened my 2 drain valves in my lower closet and also opened the valve that's in between my tires for my fresh water...let them both drain real well...I'm a little skeptical about putting AF in my fresh water tank....

peegreen · 10-30-2006, 04:57 AM

Purchase a kit like this; very inexpensive, a few miniutes to install and you're good to good every winter forward. Turn valve, put end of tube into antifreeze bottle, start pump and open faucets. This process only takes several minutes.http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...13&skunum=6279

Macfrodge · 10-30-2006, 06:28 AM

I too have just encountered this design issue with my 25' 2005 CCD...

Having never done this before, we purged the lines with compressed air, then attempted to affix the 3 way valve to the pump to get some antifreeze into the lines.

The pump is below our closet next to the fridge. Through a process of trial and error (we mistakenly attached the valve to the wrong line; that caused a lovely bubbling action in our antifreeze jug - whoops!) we located the water intake line.

Problem is, it's right up against the outside wall. There's absolutely no room whatsoever to get that winterizing kit attached - the brass valve takes up quite a bit of room. So we went out (once again...) to Home Depot to get some flexible tubing with connectors as a bridge between the two (this was definitely turning into a 24 Miller job...).

Seemed to work at first, though not very well. Having never done this before we turned on the pump and it did suck it up, but we did have to prime the sucker first - wouldn't pull any antifreeze on it's own. After priming, it did seem to get going, but VERYYYY slowly.

And the pump wasn't making the very noisy sounds I was accustomed to.

So we stopped.

Does anyone have any experience/suggestions as to the best method of getting antifreeze in the lines after the air purge? Especially with the *lovely* placement of the pump in our unit...

Another dumb question - do the water heater bypass valves have anything to do with the water pump's ability to do it's job? We've got the valves closed to the water heater, and I believe the valve in between in open... Could we have done this incorrectly?

Cheers!
Michelle

BillTex · 10-30-2006, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by enduroryda

Really?? I opened my 2 drain valves in my lower closet and also opened the valve that's in between my tires for my fresh water...let them both drain real well...I'm a little skeptical about putting AF in my fresh water tank....

You needn't worry about trace amounts of h20 left in the tank, the concern is expansion. A small amount in the TANK will have enough room to expand without causing damage. Any water in the LINE can cause damage due to expansion.
Having said that, I have put non-toxic AF in my tank in the past, rinsed well in the spring time, and never had a problem. I don't bother putting any in there now though...

Bill

**CanoeStream** · 10-30-2006, 08:35 AM

A year ago I posted on this installation in similar tight confines under my fridge. See post 114 at http://www.airforums.com/forum...ps-2343-9.html

My photo shows the old holes for the pump mount -- I had to reposition it toward trailer midline by the full width of the Camco valve. Four screws hold the pump down -- remove them, install the valve, then screw the pump back down.

I removed a fixed panel under the fridge and also worked through the access door under the adjacent wardrobe -- needed both accesses to help me get to the pump. A heater duct was in the way and I had to undo one end to move it aside. There was also a flexible water hose loop coming off the pump -- I had to give a different twist to it but pretty well left that alone. This didn't take any unusual tools -- just a good trouble light. I did not have to pre-drill holes for the pump mount screws' new position. Probably took about an hour, most of it dealing with solving access issues. That Camco valve can usually be bought locally at any RV dealer or fleet store with a camper trailer section.

My neck and shoulders were sore for 3 months after, requiring physical therapy and messing with my sleep -- mostly due to two herniated disks that don't need surgery. Yet ... unless I have to do more jobs like this!

Reference threads: getting ready for the freeze and Winterizing Tips. Read start to finish for all odd bits of useful info.

Steve & Susan · 10-30-2006, 08:41 AM

We attached the same anti-freeze fitting with a valve for normal use and then for filling with anti-freeze. I was able to re-orient the water pump for easire access (I don't know WHY the factory puts them in the way they do).

While I was doing this, I also added soft pipe leading to and from the pump as well as put it on a foam mouse pad to reduce vibration noise. Pump manufacturers recommend flexible tubing at both connections, but the factory uses rigid pipe. There are aftermarket pump silencing kits that have these.

I did this before last winter, added the pink stuff and had no problem with aftertaste when I purged it this past spring.

Good Luck!

**CanoeStream** · 10-30-2006, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by szy8xj

I did this before last winter, added the pink stuff and had no problem with aftertaste when I purged it this past spring.

Yes, the consensus is that you should not try winterizing by pulling antifreeze put in the main water tank. It is very hard to remove all the antifreeze taste in the spring (still is propylene glycol -- just a USP grade).

A little water will remain in all three tanks and that will cause no damage if it freezes. Of course both the grey & black get a bit of antifreeze when you winterize. There's a valve low on the side of your fresh water tank. But get down on the ground and look under the tank -- my Safari has two other drain valves in lower position on the underside.

I have a charcoal water filter in the main kitchen faucet. Be sure to remove that element before passing antifreeze thru the system!

**jcanavera** · 10-30-2006, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Macfrodge

Problem is, it's right up against the outside wall. There's absolutely no room whatsoever to get that winterizing kit attached - the brass valve takes up quite a bit of room.

I have a similar problem in my Classic. While I'm lucky enough to get good access from the closet, the intake side of the pump is very close to the wheel well. Too close to put the bypass valve onto the pump. So for now I just unscrew the water intake line from the pump, and screw in the anti-freeze hose assembly onto the pump fitting rather than onto the valve. Put the other end of the tube into the bottle and turn on the pump.

I'll have to relocate the pump on the floor in order to get the permanent bypass valve onto it which for all intents is the best way to do this. I've been dreading doing it because with my luck my quiet pump will probably be turned into chattering monster.

Jack

Chaplain Kent · 10-30-2006, 11:04 AM

I never really winterize Chummy even up here in the North. Since we camp all year we want to be ready to go without all the purging and pumping plus when I return I want a simple quick system. Here's what I do. First when we leave the campground I open the drain on the water tank and let it drain on the ride home. Next is to drain the water heater, put back the drain plug and purge the system with compressed air starting at the farthest faucet and then work back- do not forget the toilet! I remove the shower hose, sink hose, toilet hose, and water filter. Pour a small amount of anti-freeze into each trap and you are done. This whole procedure take me less than thirty minutes, I have yet to have a frozen pipe, fitting, or fixture. Plus we are ready to roll when we get the itch to camp.
NEVER put anti freeze in your fresh water tank, you can not wash this poison out.

bfred · 10-31-2006, 08:16 PM

Chaplain Kent,
I agree with you fully. I have a 2003 Land Yacht 396XL and have never used anti-freeze. I drain and blow out the lines and have never had a problem with freezing and it gets cold here in Michigan also.
I use my motorhome through the winter also as the diesel engine and generator need to be exercised to prevent problems.

Auretrvr · 11-01-2006, 07:37 AM

Thanks, Chaplain! We have read so much on this and even bought the bypass and antifreeze. My husband just needed some encouragement to use our compressor (has high pressure) and a little a/f in the traps. Wish we could get away this winter, but it is our time to be making drapes and having upholstery done. Spring will be here before we know it!