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Old 09-03-2002, 11:04 AM   #1
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Question Winterizing - Pressure Needed To Blow Out Lines

How much in the way of PSI is needed to adequately remove/blow out any remaining water from the lines in my AS trailer. I have access to a Coleman air compressor that delivers 70-100 PSI. Will this be adequate to do the job? Thanks, AJ
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Old 09-03-2002, 12:36 PM   #2
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More than enough, you need to regulate it down to what the maximum water pressure would be, 40-45 psi or take a chance on blowing lines. More than anything you need enough volume of air to maintain this pressure for enough time to completely blow the lines.

John
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Old 09-03-2002, 01:46 PM   #3
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John:

Thanks for the info. AJ
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Old 09-09-2002, 02:38 PM   #4
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Air pressure for winterizing

Two questions on this subject. For those of us who do not have a compressor at home, can we visit our local gas station and use the air service available there? This is usually a free-standing metered device with air hose and schraeder fitting which allows you to pre-set a maximum tire pressure. If so, what setting should be used? 45-50 p.s.i.? Since there would be little or no backward air pressure resistance from the water lines because you would not be filling a tire, would the p.s.i. setting be meaningless? Also, if one plans to winterize by using the Airstream's 12-v water pump inlet to feed RV anti-freeze throughout the system, is it really necessary to blow out the water lines with air first?

Lew Brodsky
Springfield, VA
2001 Safari
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Old 09-09-2002, 03:32 PM   #5
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I will answer your second question first.

You do not need to remove all of the water from the lines to winterize with the antifreeze. You can either pur it in the tank and use the pump to displace the water, or get some fle tubing and connect it to the inlet of the pump and stick it in the jug of antifreeze and pump it thru the system.

As to the air pressure you want to limit it to 30 PSI or less. there are some flex lines in most models and you could blow one off if you get your pressure too high. The way that the gas station pumps work is that they only allow the preset pressure to go out the hose, if you have less than the preset it send more air.

I understand your question regarding no back pressure, but if you think about it the water will allow low pressure air to bypass it and could lead to damage in pipes that are low in the trailer. By allowing pressure to build and then releasing it you would force more water out ans the entire system would be pressurized and then the water would rush out.

I am a firm beliver in the aintfreeze system as I have had it done and not had any problems. The Air system works but if you miss a few tablespoons of water in a pipe somewhere it could lead to many hours of work.

BTW don't forget to also pur antifreeze into your sink traps and enough into the tanks to protect your drain valves.
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Old 09-09-2002, 07:04 PM   #6
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I will second Brett's post. Last winter was my first as an owner, and I did the method of pulling the antifreeze into the water heater, with a tube in the bottle, and also pouring some into the tank. I let the pump do the work for me in putting it thru to the sinks and toilet and shower head. When it ran pink I shut the valve off.
My only complaint is that it took a long time to rid the water of the anti freeze odor, and yes I bought the odorless type!
In spring I put a cup of bleach into the tank, ran my motorhome around a bit, then drained and added baking soda to the final partial fill.
There are a few other winterizing methods, but this is the one listed in my airstream manual as well.
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Old 09-09-2002, 11:20 PM   #7
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Winterizing

I run about 1/2 gallon of antifreeze through the pump. This protects the pump, accumulator tank and plumbing on the tank side of the check valve. I then use compressed air to blow all moisture from the lines. This takes a little while, working the different faucets until there is no hint of water from any of them. I use this approach because I do not have a HW tank bypass on the trailer and no stomach to alter the copper tubing to add one. Antifreeze then goes down the drain and into the tank. I leave the drain valves, water heater drain valve, fresh water tank drain valves and all faucets open. I have not had a problem is 6 years of cold Michigan winters.

Whenever I store my units between use, I open all valves and faucets. The trailer has a HW drain. The MH hot water tank drains with valves open. If I have not used the trailer for a while, it is pretty near dry when I blow the lines. The Motorhome seems to have a reservoir of water somewhere, probably the hose on the reel.

Jim
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Old 09-22-2002, 12:44 PM   #8
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Winterizing

Jim, I'v had this Q already answered, but value your experience. What about the street side of the water pressure regulator and the piping from that to the main line?? Tom
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Old 09-22-2002, 09:00 PM   #9
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Tom,

My regulator has two fittings that can be removed to ensure all both chambers are dry. I no longer remove them becaue I place the air fitting on the city water inlet and blow everything clear from the city water side including the pressure regulator. Antifreeze protects the inlet hose from the fresh water tank through the pump, accumluator, to the check valve.

Jim
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Old 09-23-2002, 09:06 AM   #10
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i have a rather large dayton speed air compressor in my shop. i let it run until it reaches 40-50 psi. then i shut it off manually.
then i take a connector that i made to connect my quick connector to the city water inlet.
when i have opened the air into the trailer i go inside and open every faucet. then i restart my compessor and let it run for 5 min.
the pressure never gets above 40 psi. that way.

after that i pull the inlet to the pump and fill the entire system with anti freeze. doing all faucets and traps.(don't forget to bypass hot water heater, pull the under sink water filter and run some anti freeze through the sprinkler head for the toilet.)

i have used this system many times and never had a problem even down to -30 f .

john
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Old 09-23-2002, 06:13 PM   #11
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Unhappy Winterizing

Jim, From your description of the process you use I guess you put some anti freeze in the tank and ran the pump. I used a truck tire inflator [that's all I had] from city water hose connection To blow out water, then ran anti freeze through the trailer drains ,and faucets from the inlet side of the pump . I put some a-f in the tank and opened drain to let out some a-f. I'm not sure reg. is protected. I have the two fittings on the reg. That may be the easiest way to go for me. Tom
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