2019 PacNW Snomagheddon: unwinterized Safari 25SS

[wandered]

Greetings AS'ers, and Happiest of New Year to you all.

I just purchased a 2007 Safari 25SS SE and I'm completely stoked!

The trailer had been parked in TX for several years and used as a getaway. When the owners passed in 2015, the trailer was transferred to their daughter and transported to WA State. After light use, it's been sitting idle for 2 years before I came upon it and purchased it and limped it to Les Schwab to get 4 new tires on her. I made it home last Saturday...and the snow and freezing temps began on Sunday night. Which I was completely unprepared for...

Unfortunately, I'm 100% certain this trailer has not been winterized (properly). So, I'm losing sleep.

Since the parts I need to get a 30A plug working at its new home are unable to be delivered yet due to snowstorm, I ran an extension cord and put two small space heaters inside:

1. Lifting the bed, I placed one near the hot water tank and plumbing.
2. Opening the bathroom and sink cabinets, I directed a second at the commode/sink/shower area. It's mildly cold to touch, but not at all freezing (but that's the stuff ABOVE floor).

Before I purchased, the seller said it was winterized (tanks emptied) but the control panel had amber lights on gray and black tanks (see photo).

Weather outside is fluctuating between 20-36F degrees all week; the trailer seems to be about 55ish degrees inside, and the hot water tank and its associated plumbing are warm and not frozen. 50F degree weather coming in 8-10 days and I can tow it to dump station for flushing and begin proper winterizing.

My real problem: I don't know what I don't know. I'm a brand new RV'er but have had several boats (similar sets of maintenance management). Since this has not been winterized, and I fear all 3 tanks have something in them, what can I do to reduce the risk of any system failure due to freezing? What systems other than plumbing and tanks should I be concerned about?

Thank you in advance for any assistance and thoughts.

Best,

Ed
(wander...ed)

[Adventure.AS]

You mention that the HW tank is warm - does that mean it has water in it? Have you tried putting compressed air through the city water connection to see if the water lines are actually empty? The furnace ducts warm air into the tank areas. Have you filled the propane tanks and run the furnace?

[wandered]

Photo

[wandered]

Hi Ray,

The HW tank is warm because the space heater is pointing at it. Nothing in the trailer is hooked to anything -- it's essentially in dry camp mode.

There is no propane in tanks. There is no 30A power to trailer. The batteries are dead and useless. It's parked outside of my house, so I do have regular 110 VAC and water nearby.

I have not tried compressed air -- but I do have a compressor. Where does one hook that up?

If I get propane in the tanks, will the furnace run without power?

[Adventure.AS]

You need either batteries or a working converter to run the furnace as 12 volts is needed for the fan etc. Get an adapter so that you can plug your shore power cord in to the 15 amp circuit. That would be enough to keep batteries charged up.

[btowntincan]

don't trust the indicators. The tanks could very well be empty.

Turn on the pump and open a valve in the kitchen. If nothing comes out, the lines may have been blown clean. If something pink comes out, they have put anti-freeze in the lines and you should be OK.

Lots of threads on how to winterize, may want to study up. Smart to run a heater inside to take the edge off.

PS - this storm is crazy!

[Adventure.AS]

Open the toilet lid and using a flashlight look in the tank. (Don't drop it!!) You will soon see if it is indeed empty. If the black tank is empty then chances are the other tanks are empty too.

[wandered]

Ok, great to know! Thanks.

I have solar, batteries and a new 30A plug, cord, and adapter being shipped. I'm empty handed presently.

[Smartstream]

There should be low point drains on both hot and cold water systems and a drain plug on the hot water tank. You pump compressed air, 40 to 50 psi, in the hose fitting that you connect to the RV park water supply. Any hardware store will have a brass fitting to go from hose thread to pipe thread. From there drop to 1/4" pipe thread to connect to your compressor. Open all the valves at sinks and shower and don't forget the toiled valve. Good luck.

[OTRA15]

Your owner’s manual is a good place to start reading about winterizing.

Also the Sticky Topic at the top of this forum:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f458...rize-7222.html

Those two resources will get you more cohesive info quickly than the dribs and drabs here IMO.

Good luck,

Peter

[wandered]

SMH {open toilet and look}

Of course.

Yes, the black water tank is empty. Not clean...but empty.

[wandered]

Excellent; thank you!

[wulfraat]

I had the same trailer. Your gonna love it - it’s a highly sought after floor plan.

Ok - here is the first thing to do, if you think you may have water in the lines - on the passenger side / curb side... between the wheels under the trailer are the two low point drains for the plumbing. Using a flat head screwdriver as a small pry bar open those up and and see if any water comes out. You have to unscrew them quite a bit. I think they are reverse threaded if I remember correctly.

This will be your first indication if you have a problem or not. I’d be less worried about the tanks and most worried about the plastic fresh water plumbing lines inside the trailer. You are in for an adventure if a fitting or line has cracked.

The other drain points are in the storage compartment curb side under the bed. This is where you can also drain certain parts of the hot and cold fresh water plumbing. You will see 3 valves in there - one for hot, one for cold and a third to let hot or cold drain out under the trailer. Manipulate these valves to drain additional water from hot and cold fresh water lines.

Go check that out and let us know!

Also - you don’t need a full 30AMPs to run the trailer. Just use an extension cord from your house and use a 15->30 amp adapter. Everything will run including the furnace assuming you have LP. Just front try to run the air conditioner, that is the only item that requires 30A service.


PS - here are some modifications we did to ours...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f370...al-106742.html

[wandered]

Originally Posted by wulfraat

I had the same trailer. Your gonna love it - it’s a highly sought after floor plan.

Ok - here is the first thing to do, if you think you may have water in the lines - on the passenger side / curb side... between the wheels under the trailer are the two low point drains for the plumbing. Using a flat head screwdriver as a small pry bar open those up and and see if any water comes out. You have to unscrew them quite a bit. I think they are reverse threaded if I remember correctly.

This will be your first indication if you have a problem or not. I’d be less worried about the tanks and most worried about the plastic fresh water plumbing lines inside the trailer. You are in for an adventure if a fitting or line has cracked.

The other drain points are in the storage compartment curb side under the bed. This is where you can also drain certain parts of the hot and cold fresh water plumbing. You will see 3 valves in there - one for hot, one for cold and a third to let hot or cold drain out under the trailer. Manipulate these valves to drain additional water from hot and cold fresh water lines.

Go check that out and let us know!

Also - you don’t need a full 30AMPs to run the trailer. Just use an extension cord from your house and use a 15->30 amp adapter. Everything will run including the furnace assuming you have LP. Just front try to run the air conditioner, that is the only item that requires 30A service.


PS - here are some modifications we did to ours...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f370...al-106742.html

These? What's the white plastic one to the right?

P.S. owner just texted and said all tanks were empty but that a person put water in 2 weeks ago to test HW. I opened drain valve on HW tank and it drained underneath... Plus opened the cross valve per manual and some more drained.

Black is empty.

[wandered]

Ok -- both were already all the way out. I only know that because I turned them all the way in and nothing happened -- then back out.

[wulfraat]

Yes - the 2 metal valves are low point drains for the hot and cold fresh water.

The white one is for draining the fresh water tank. Open that up to see if there is any fresh water in the holding tank.

What I do is blow out the system by hooking up my air compressor to the fresh water city inlet on the driver / stream side. You’ll need a special fitting for that. 60psi. Let pressure build up then open one faucet until only air comes out, then close it, let pressure build back up, and move to the next faucet. Once all the faucets are done repeat the procedure with the low point drains.

Once everything is blowing out you can then fill the fresh after system with RV antifreeze (optional) - you can buy it from an RV store or Walmart. It’s food-safe pink RV specific antifreeze for fresh water systems - it’s not what you would put in your car radiator - stay away from the automotive department [emoji4]

You can buy a little adapter hose and connect it to your water pump - which is located in the hallway under the storage compartment street side... then stuck the hose into the bottle of RV antifreeze, turn in the pump and then open each faucet one at a time until the pink stuff comes out. Make sure to turn off the hot water valve for the hot water heater - otherwise it will suck up 6 gallons!

[wandered]

All fixture valves are open in trailer. So, maybe I'm good...

On the power note, that's so good to know. I tried hooking up to shore power with the old adapter they gave me. It worked at their house. When I did it, It quickly popped my 15A house breaker. At the trailer, Something smelled burnt. The adapter, cord, and external outlet box on trailer are all aged and burnt. I'm replacing it all to be safe. I already installed a 30A box in garage and wired it -- waiting for the other end...The 10-2 cable going to inside junction box is not easy to get to, but I'd like to pull some slack to trim off the stressed copper, or replace if needed.

To all the "RTM" folks, I get it. Unfortunately, as a ex-Navy ET, I expect diagrams, schematics, and IPB's. This owners manual is "ok" but not tech worthy. Instead, I have a bunch of vague words telling me to do something to a part that I have no idea where it resides.

Thank you for this forum and YouTube!!

[wandered]

Originally Posted by wulfraat

Yes - the 2 metal valves are low point drains for the hot and cold fresh water.

The white one is for draining the fresh water tank. Open that up to see if there is any fresh water in the holding tank.

What I do is blow out the system by hooking up my air compressor to the fresh water city inlet on the driver / stream side. You’ll need a special fitting for that.

Once everything is blowing out you can then fill the fresh after system with RV antifreeze - you can buy it from an RV store or Walmart. It’s food-safe pink RV specific antifreeze for fresh water systems - it’s not what you would put in your car

You can buy a little adapter hose and connect it to your water pump - which is located in the hallway under the storage compartment street side... then stuck the hose into the bottle of RV antifreeze, turn in the pump and then open each faucet one at a time until the pink stuff comes out. Make sure to turn off the hot water valve for the hot water heater - otherwise it will suck up 6 gallons!

Thank you wulfraat -- I just bought air compressor adapter and ready for that step. Really appreciate the help!

[wulfraat]

You bet - congrats and happy trails ahead!

[azflycaster]

Congratulations, we love our SS. It is a very functional floor plan. Don't get too hung up on the led tank indicators.