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Old 06-17-2011, 04:35 PM   #21
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My second night in our new AS, I cranked a bit much on the starboard aft thingamabob...(I would hesitate to call it a stabilizer and we already know it's not a leveller) and then couldn't close the hatch.
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Old 06-18-2011, 10:47 AM   #22
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Sometimes when the stabilizer jacks are cranked too much, the door doesn't close properly. It is pretty easy to rack the trailer and learning just how much pressure to put on them takes some time. The best solution would be to make them stronger and mount them better so it is not easy to twist everything, but that would cost more and may add a lot of weight.

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Old 06-18-2011, 02:11 PM   #23
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I carry 4 small pieces of plywood to use under the stabilizers. They work best if you are in soft soil or gravel but I use them all the time. Even on blacktop or concrete. Size is not important just something to give them some bite on soft footing. Works great for us.
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:58 PM   #24
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Some campgrounds request or require you use something under all the jacks to protect the pad.

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Old 06-18-2011, 09:14 PM   #25
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I always use the plastic pads. Sometimes more than one depending on the site (so I don't have to crank 2 or 3 of the 6 so far down). The 18V drill is the way to go in 105F Texas heat after a day of Interstate traffic. Both the Hensley and the stabilizers move durn quickly. The other hand holds the beverage.
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Old 06-24-2011, 03:33 PM   #26
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There's less shimmy shimmy coco bop if you put an orange block under each stabilizer, no matter what the surface is.
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:57 PM   #27
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I use 10" x 12" x 1/4" thick plastic cutting boards (---I think I have 12 boards) that I bought at Walmart for around $1.59 each. I place one under each stabilizer - and when I'm really trying to get it "just right" I use combinations of them (---usually no more than three or four) stacked under the tires to level the trailer. When I'm out of level too much - on a lousy site - I carry a series (---a total of four boards) of stacking 2 x 8's that "mate together" via galvanized bolt pegs and holes and support both wheels simultaneously. The length of the 2 x 8's are cut to provide a pyramid shape when stacked, such that the shortest, or topmost 2 x 8 is still long enough to support both axles, whereas the trailer will easily climb up the stack. The stacking 2 x 8's also serve to fix a flat - or service my bearings by letting one wheel hang off the end of the stack. Always support both tires when you're setting up for a day or two. For me, the 2 x 8's were more functional - and cheaper - than the commercial offerings.
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Old 06-25-2011, 01:04 PM   #28
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Great info everyone, Thanks from all us newbies! 'Cracker', your idea of the 2 x 8 stacking pyramid sound perfect, inexpensive, multifunctional and best of all I can make it myself. How high do you need to say, check the bearings? Is 3 levels of 2x8's enough? I assume the base or bottom boards should be just long enough to fit between the tires.
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Old 06-25-2011, 06:34 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captmatt View Post
Great info everyone, Thanks from all us newbies! 'Cracker', your idea of the 2 x 8 stacking pyramid sound perfect, inexpensive, multifunctional and best of all I can make it myself. How high do you need to say, check the bearings? Is 3 levels of 2x8's enough? I assume the base or bottom boards should be just long enough to fit between the tires.
No - with respect to board length --- the stack I use starts with a 4'-6" long board, with each succeeding board shortened by 4" overall, and centered on the board below (---creating a ramp on either end of the stack) until the top board remains long enough to fully support both axles when the trailer is centered on the stack. Again, I use four boards and - when on a hard surface - three boards will generally raise the suspended axle enough to clear the ground. I also beveled the top ends of the boards about 1" on a 45% slope to ease the ramp slightly. The trailer easily climbs the ramp and, if it were much shallower, it would be difficult to "suspend" one axle for service (---lack of clearance!) I carry the stack "made up" across the rearmost end of my pickup bed, strapped in place using nylon cargo straps - but your transport configuration will probably vary. The remaining detail I used for the "pegs" consists of 1/4" diameter x 1 1/2" long galvanized lag bolts screwed into the bottom of each upper board, with a stack of washers fitted on each bolt to produce a peg about 3/4" long. I used 4 pegs per board with the matching female holes drilled in the top of the lower board. That way there's nothing sticking up when you use only two or three boards. The bottom board doesn't have pegs and the top board doesn't have holes. A coat of paint keeps the boards in good shape when they have to stay out in the rain and mud! The long length of the stack actually makes getting the trailer up on the boards fairly easy since lining the boards up parallel to the side of the trailer with the stack positioned on the tire is a piece of cake. The only tricky part is placing the stack where you want the trailer to stop - either by backing it on or pulling it ahead.
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Old 06-26-2011, 04:12 PM   #30
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Thanks Cracker, I had two stacks in mind but the use of one for both axles (just one axle for service needs) makes it that much easier! I'll be sure to keep room in the truck bed for my new leveling planks! I appreciate the details!
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