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Old 11-27-2010, 04:31 PM   #15
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Shane
IF ya like the exercise. I use a speed wrench,like the crank for a Model T, Opps sorry you probably don't know what a model t is. Oh well. I use the speed wrench and 3/4 in socket and I never run out of battery. I found another invaluable tool like the plastic leveling blocks mention before,is a large level mounted on the nose of the trailer under the front window. I cant remember the brand name without going up to the barn.Its easy installed and adjusted and is a great tool for leveling front to back and side to side.The levels are marked and each mark is two inches I believe so ya know about how many blocks to use.
GOOD LUCK
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Old 11-27-2010, 05:36 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by wrochdvm View Post
I am a newbie AS owner. Haven't even picked it up yet. But, I've spent hours here in the forums.

I've learned a lot, and the information about the stabilizers was very good to find. I thought they were leveling jacks.

One thing I'd like to know, what's up with the 1 Rivet, 2 Rivet etc?

Thanks

W

Welcome to the Forums. We're glad to have you with us.

Be careful what the salesman tells you. Many will tell you that the stabilizers are for leveling the trailer. Many of the salesmen have never camped in an RV or towed anything.

As to the rivets, they are awarded by the computer for the number of posts that you have. As you can tell, I spend a lot of time here.

Brian
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Old 11-27-2010, 05:45 PM   #17
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We use the leveling jacks to just take the 'SHAKE' out of the house while walking and tripping over the small area rugs and computer cords and cats and.....coughing sneezing--outside winds--neighbors'loud booming mexican music.
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Old 06-16-2011, 07:49 PM   #18
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The more posts, the more rivets. If you have 5 rivets (500 posts), you need to think about getting a life.

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Old 06-17-2011, 07:42 AM   #19
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what a riveting subject.
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Old 06-17-2011, 04:53 PM   #20
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OK Shane,

Now we're talkin'. Exercise ... then a beer. It just can't get any better than that. I hope we can enjoy a brew together sometime.

JimW
WAIT!!!!! I thought the exercise WAS the 12 oz arm curls!
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Old 06-17-2011, 05:35 PM   #21
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My second night in our new AS, I cranked a bit much on the starboard aft thingamabob...(I would hesitate to call it a stabilizer and we already know it's not a leveller) and then couldn't close the hatch.
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Old 06-18-2011, 11:47 AM   #22
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Sometimes when the stabilizer jacks are cranked too much, the door doesn't close properly. It is pretty easy to rack the trailer and learning just how much pressure to put on them takes some time. The best solution would be to make them stronger and mount them better so it is not easy to twist everything, but that would cost more and may add a lot of weight.

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Old 06-18-2011, 03:11 PM   #23
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I carry 4 small pieces of plywood to use under the stabilizers. They work best if you are in soft soil or gravel but I use them all the time. Even on blacktop or concrete. Size is not important just something to give them some bite on soft footing. Works great for us.
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Old 06-18-2011, 03:58 PM   #24
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Some campgrounds request or require you use something under all the jacks to protect the pad.

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Old 06-18-2011, 10:14 PM   #25
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I always use the plastic pads. Sometimes more than one depending on the site (so I don't have to crank 2 or 3 of the 6 so far down). The 18V drill is the way to go in 105F Texas heat after a day of Interstate traffic. Both the Hensley and the stabilizers move durn quickly. The other hand holds the beverage.
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Old 06-24-2011, 04:33 PM   #26
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There's less shimmy shimmy coco bop if you put an orange block under each stabilizer, no matter what the surface is.
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Old 06-24-2011, 06:57 PM   #27
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I use 10" x 12" x 1/4" thick plastic cutting boards (---I think I have 12 boards) that I bought at Walmart for around $1.59 each. I place one under each stabilizer - and when I'm really trying to get it "just right" I use combinations of them (---usually no more than three or four) stacked under the tires to level the trailer. When I'm out of level too much - on a lousy site - I carry a series (---a total of four boards) of stacking 2 x 8's that "mate together" via galvanized bolt pegs and holes and support both wheels simultaneously. The length of the 2 x 8's are cut to provide a pyramid shape when stacked, such that the shortest, or topmost 2 x 8 is still long enough to support both axles, whereas the trailer will easily climb up the stack. The stacking 2 x 8's also serve to fix a flat - or service my bearings by letting one wheel hang off the end of the stack. Always support both tires when you're setting up for a day or two. For me, the 2 x 8's were more functional - and cheaper - than the commercial offerings.
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Old 06-25-2011, 02:04 PM   #28
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Great info everyone, Thanks from all us newbies! 'Cracker', your idea of the 2 x 8 stacking pyramid sound perfect, inexpensive, multifunctional and best of all I can make it myself. How high do you need to say, check the bearings? Is 3 levels of 2x8's enough? I assume the base or bottom boards should be just long enough to fit between the tires.
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