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Old 03-24-2008, 09:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster
I have two sets of Lynx's levelers. I can put both wheels 4" off the ground when in uneven places. They can also be used to change a tire on a dual axle trailer. I did that last weekend.
I've changed a number of flat tires using the Lnx Levelers. I never needed a jack. I just built a Lynx ramp.

Brian
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Old 03-24-2008, 10:02 PM   #16
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Once your level, lock it down...Save at RV Partscenter - RV Parts and Supply
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Old 03-25-2008, 05:49 PM   #17
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I use a set of four 2 x 6 boards that nest together via lag bolt mounted 5/8" diameter pegs (4 per board) and matching 3/4" diameter holes in the mating piece below. The four 2 x 6's vary in length to provide for a ramp-like approach, with the shortest 2 x 6 long enough to accomodate both of the axles. I tapered the top end edge of each 2 x 6 to make for a better ramp. Each 2 x 6 is about 8" longer than the one above it. The longest 2 x 6 (---the bottom or "ground" board) has holes - but no pegs. That takes care of the way-out-of-level sites (---common in our state and national parks,) as well as providing more than adequate lift for changing tires when needed. It helps to have a pickup for a TV. For minor adjustments, on well-graded and level sites, I use a set of one dozen 3/8" thick 10" x 12" poly cutting boards that I bought at Wal*Mart for about $1.59/each. By slightly shifting the AS forward or back - and sometimes from side to side - I can usually get within range of the stacked poly cutting boards. If I'm going to be parked for several days - and I didn't use all of the poly boards - I'll normally place one under each outrigger and the tongue jack. These poly boards are as tough as nails and handle the AS loads withour any problem - even on soft ground. I store them in a canvas bag.
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Old 03-25-2008, 06:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janet
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I dislike these levelers because they get loaded with dirt that invariabley ends up in your trailer. 2 x 6 wood chunks are easier to clean off, can be burned in an emergency and make acceptable fish cleaning boards.

HAH! Ever read the MSDS for treated wood...prior to burning it

I usually camp with hookups so rinsing off the Lynx Levelers is no big deal, besides they come with a cool little bag to store them in (and if SOMEONE remembers to zip it up, the dirt stays inside )

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Old 03-25-2008, 06:39 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster
I have two sets of Lynx's levelers. I can put both wheels 4" off the ground when in uneven places. They can also be used to change a tire on a dual axle trailer. I did that last weekend.
I bought one set for our new Safari, do you think I need two sets???
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Old 03-25-2008, 06:46 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RIstream'n
I bought one set for our new Safari, do you think I need two sets???
Set them up next to the wheels and see how many blocks you need to raise the trailer a few inches. We had one set and needed to go up about 4 inches. We could only raise one wheel and the other was just hanging. We bought another set right after that.
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Old 03-25-2008, 06:49 PM   #21
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Lynx Levelers

They are good, as are the yellow Camping World ones. I also have the Lynx Wheel Chocks. WalMart doesn't stock them, but I spotted them in Safford RV one day and bought them.

If you're ever tempted to buy the yellow plastic wheel chocks at Walmart - DON'T. They will squash flatter than a pancake if you forget to take them up and accidently run over them while leaving your campsight. That won't happen with the Lynx ones.

Paula
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Old 03-25-2008, 07:42 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Foiled Again
They are good, as are the yellow Camping World ones. I also have the Lynx Wheel Chocks. WalMart doesn't stock them, but I spotted them in Safford RV one day and bought them.

If you're ever tempted to buy the yellow plastic wheel chocks at Walmart - DON'T. They will squash flatter than a pancake if you forget to take them up and accidently run over them while leaving your campsight. That won't happen with the Lynx ones.

Paula
Glad to know I am not the only one to have done that...

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Old 03-25-2008, 08:38 PM   #23
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quick and easy

Here's my system, place the two curved blocks on the low side, back up until the level is visible- easy to see from the burb,Engage parking brake, slam into park.Then do whatever, if I need more then I get creative.
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Old 03-25-2008, 10:01 PM   #24
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I have 2 sets of the Lynx blocks plus 2 tire locking chocks. The locking wheel locking chocks also add a touch of security as they need a wrench to loosen. I put all of this in a plastic bin and store in the pickup bed. Nice and small and clean.
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Old 03-26-2008, 06:54 AM   #25
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K-I-S-S

You guys are way overcomplicating this. I use 2 6x6's cut to about 15" lg. The incline is infinitely adjustable, up to 6" (if your site is off more than this...you need to move!). Just drive up the incline until you are level, place a chock behind the wheel, all done! Total system; 2 angled wooden blocks, 2 chocks. Total cost=free (scrap lumber), easy to clean, easy to carry, and as noted-can be burned in an emergency?!
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:01 AM   #26
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One of the things I learned at a tire safety class was to make sure that what ever you use to put under the tires, that the tire is completely supported by the block, wood, etc. A tire can be damaged if the tread area is only partially supported, which for all intents means that the weight supported by that tire is concentrated on a much smaller area, hence causing potential damage to the tire belts.

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Old 03-26-2008, 09:45 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillTex
K-I-S-S

You guys are way overcomplicating this. I use 2 6x6's cut to about 15" lg. The incline is infinitely adjustable, up to 6" (if your site is off more than this...you need to move!).
Bill-- move? if more then 6" out of level? Not up to the challenge? Don't have a big a$$ bandsaw to make blocks like mine?
I thought you were the engineering type! The challenging pic I added the tongue was waist high and I pulled up the picinic table to use as a porch!!
At this rally my rig was known as "The Big House at the Top of the Hill".
Geez I really like Forum Rallies!

And what Jack says- support all the tread on the tire- important.

I just don't like putting a wedge between anything anymore- aging gracefully don't ya know
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Old 03-26-2008, 10:12 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera
One of the things I learned at a tire safety class was to make sure that what ever you use to put under the tires, that the tire is completely supported by the block, wood, etc. A tire can be damaged if the tread area is only partially supported, which for all intents means that the weight supported by that tire is concentrated on a much smaller area, hence causing potential damage to the tire belts.

Jack
Yep...that is why I used 6x's.

DG-long time-how goes it?
The only question I have on your levelers (very creative) is it looks like you only have a couple (2-3") of leverage?
Hard to tell by the pic.

My wedges are short enough so they do not bind in between the tires-15" IIRC. Really, they are short ramps, not "wedges". If you look closely, there is a small black rubber "wedge" (chock) behind the tire to prevent rolling back down the "ramp".
My system works very similiar to yours, place leveler on ground, drive up until level, place rear chock...drink beer.
Please note; since this picture, my "ramps" have been painted....silver of course!

And yes, finding a saw with enough stroke was a challenge! (I had to make 2 passes from opposing sides...)

BTW, the KISS principle is instilled in University...

Oh yeah, credit for my idea goes to alansd, who has a very cool set of old aluminum leveling ramps with chocks. I have NOT been able to track these down anywhere...

Bill
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