What model is this power jack/lift (and why is it stuck)?

[thegarse]

Hi all, hoping you can tell me the model number of this power lift and also hoping you know why it's stuck all the way up. Fuse is good, I plugged the AS into the TV and tried to make the lift go down and I got no power, not even a noise.

Does it only work when batteries are installed?
Do they get stuck when you go up or down all the way?

[SteveSueMac]

As a newly minted expert in jacks (that’s only funny to me given my recent post for help on a similar topic) - are you sure your jack is wired to accept power from the tow vehicle? It may not be. If you don’t have a wiring diagram you could connect it to a battery directly and see...

Do you have a way to manually raise or lower it? I don’t know what brand of jack you have but they all seem to come with a crank of some sort to use if the motor or your batteries die.

If there’s a stripped gear, that could be another reason why it wouldn’t work, but since you got no noise at all - I suspect you jus aren’t wired to get power from the tow vehicle.

And PS - I’m totally not an expert! Take with a huge salt lick....

Here’s the thread I started: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f457...em-192783.html

[AlinCal]

Following up from above..
I will add that the switch on some jacks is prone to failure so even though you have power and a good fuse the switch does nothing.
Have a multi meter? get the cover off and do some testing to see if you are getting 12v after the switch when triggered.

Your trailer has batteries in the tongue box or in the trailer behind access doors in front? The first scenario they just run a wire from the battery box to the jack, the other scenario where batteries are inside the trailer the jack power comes off the 12 buss bar im pretty sure.

[let's play]

Looks like an Ultrafab 3502, I just replaced my dads jack, took his old one home and rebuilt it. It would work intermittently, but mostly not at all. Here is what I found, the switch contacts needed to be cleaned, problem one. The magnets in the motor housing came loose and bonded up the motor, epoxied back into place, problem two. Works like brand new now.

FYI it is a real goofy switch to trouble shoot. Good luck or $150 new on amazon. There is also a circuit breaker that was tripping when the motor bound up.

[AlinCal]

Let's play is right about the switch being goofy...there are limit stops wired in.
As I recall I ended up jumpering 12v straight to the motor to see that it worked and that left the switch as only possible problem in my case.

[thegarse]

Thanks. I’ll play with it again and test for 12v. Might be time for a new one. Much appreciated.

[fwjumper]

First, make sure you have power. If the lights work, you do. If not, check with a test light or meter. Most tow vehicles don't send power to the charging circuit unless they are running, or at least have the ignition on. Later models assess the charging circuit before they send power to it. If all else fails, hook a battery to it with jumper cables. You will have to strip off some insulation on the feed wire for the positive cable and attach the negative cable to the trailer frame. If it still doesn't work...


Second, open that little flap on top and see if you can find a crank in the trailer to fit the shaft inside. If not, sometimes you can find a socket that will do the job. Many of them have a square shaft, but you may be able to find a socket that will turn it Turn it in whichever direction lowers the tongue for a few revolutions and then see if it will work normally. Remove the crank or socket wrench before you do that. Sometimes the limit switch will get out of adjustment or just dead and cause them to do this. Wishing you luck.

[Barry Myers]

Check that there is a good ground. Remove one of the mounting bolts and scrap the surface to ensure the ground is good. It is a chassis ground and I replaced my jack before I figured it out. Just a thought. Good luck!

[KenS]

I believe the power jacks are wired directly to the trailer batteries and won’t work if the batteries are drained or removed.

[RamRider]

One of the above power solutions will probably work but you could also take the weight off of it using a bottle jack in case it is just jammed - as a last resort. I had one do that so it would be worth a try.

[jcanavera]

Originally Posted by KenS

I believe the power jacks are wired directly to the trailer batteries and won’t work if the batteries are drained or removed.

I believe the vintage of the trailer and model have a lot to do how jacks are wired. I know in my 2004 Classic Slide out the jack is powered through the 12 volt fuse panel. I know because when I replaced my jack, I shorted a wire in the head of the old jack and blew a 12 volt breaker. I also know that if the master disconnect is in off position, there is no power to the jack head.

Again other models and vintages of Airstream are wired differently.

Jack

[davet1]

Looks like the OEM jack that came with our 2010 25' FC. Sometimes would stop working, had to reverse, then worked. One time it stopped and I couldn't get it going until the next day. Didn't do anything to make it work, just started working. Had to jack the trailer manually. That was enough, never again. Ordered a Husky 3500 jack and never worried about it. When we got our newer trailer, 2016 30' IS, first thing I replaced was the underpowered OEM jack with a Husky 5000. Well worth the piece of mind IMHO.

[rucos]

Looks exactly like the one on my trailer but unfortunately I dont know the model..... Im betting you may have a faulty switch Ive replace mine twice in the last 5 years .....moisture gets inside and plays hell with it ....easy to replace and find a new one.... if you have power that's where id look first.
Also you can remove the plug on top and use the hand jack to raise and lower.......hopefully you have the jack somewhere ????
I now use a cover on mine when sitting to minimize water issues.