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Old 10-06-2003, 08:41 PM   #15
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Yea, well now I know. I have roadside assistance, plastic, etc.
Funny thing is I just drove her 3000 miles round trip from New Orleans to New Mexico. About half the time I was in the middle of no-where (Texas) and did not have cell phone service. I was hoping to prove to myself that I did not need it but... definately getting that big jack but next time it will be something else!

Heidi
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Old 10-06-2003, 09:07 PM   #16
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Heidi,

I have a 5 ton bottle jack with a good size base (4.5x4.5") on it . (Sears, not a Chinese knock off) It is 9" tall with a 1 3/8" dia-meter hyd cylinder and has a 4.5 inch long adjusting screw in the top of the hydraulic cyclinder. I carry 2x8x12" wood pieces for leveling, etc. The stroke on the cylinder is 6". This size & type of bottle jack with a good foundation of wood blocks is pretty flexible and not too heavy to carry.

I have had mine for years so I don't know what a good bottle jack costs. I would guess $35-$50.
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Old 10-06-2003, 09:15 PM   #17
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Thanks to all. I'll be calling Sears in the AM.

Heidi
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Old 10-06-2003, 09:42 PM   #18
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Axles Negative Angle??

I am curious if your axles are at negative angle and need to be replaced. The negative angle would put the hub way up in the wheel well, while a proper positive angle on the axle would have the hub dangling lower towards the ground and make mounting the spare easier.

Personally, I have placed the head of a 10,000 lbs. bottle jack under the hub and had boards under the bottle jack....that worked when I had to jack it up to work on the water drain....and I placed jack stands appropriately and ran down my stabilizer feet too for safety while I was under it
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Old 10-06-2003, 09:55 PM   #19
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How would I know where the axels should be. They were "examined " unofficially by an AS veteran at a rally recently.
He pronounced them OK.
Part of the problem too is that the trailer is backed in to the driveway. (It's on a slant.)

Heidi
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Old 10-06-2003, 10:29 PM   #20
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Axle Article

I would read the article on axles and decide for myself. I have seen people who thought things were "okay" because it had not left them stranded....and if it wasn't completely broken it looked good the them and they were not about to do anything about it.
My Uncle that farmed always said that grease was cheaper than iron.

Here is the URL:

http://inlandrv.com/articles/dura-torque-axle-92001.htm
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Old 10-06-2003, 11:47 PM   #21
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If it was me i would....



- gather up some short pieces of 4x4, 2x4 and 2x6.

-make a stack of wood blocks under the side of the axel you have jacked up so that is reaches about 1/2 the way or so between the ground and the axel.

-lower the jack down, slowly and set axel on the wood blocks.

-take a few pieces of short 2x4 and 2x6 and place them under the jack base and then jakc it back up so that the axel reaches high enough for you to get the other tire back on.

-replace tire, tighten lugnuts, remove blocks, lower jakc unough so that tire hits the ground and torque down the lugnuts some more, completely remove jake.


If the trailer was jacked up on gravel or dirt surface, i would just dig a hole with a hammer enough to get the tire on the lugbolts(as was mentioned earlier).
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