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Old 11-08-2009, 07:40 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Ben4762 View Post
That's true, but I don't like the idea of putting all the trailer weight on two tires and one axle.
A couple of hours of tons of weight, "will not hurt" a torsion axle, assuming that it was ok to start with.

The same is true of the tires. Impact loads are usually far greater than dead weight. Again, a couple of hours has not been known to cause any tire damage, unless the tires are ready for the scrap heap.

Andy
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Old 11-08-2009, 09:25 PM   #30
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not my task or desire 2 convince u of nething.

besides YOU have a trio of old trailers that need all sorts of queer handling and care.

and the o.p. has a new unit.

but doing extensive MAINTENANCE (on any trailer) while hooked UP/on the ball creates LOTS of issues.

all bad.

the ball/cup/coupler and so on aren't designed to support a suspended trailer AND lift a truck rear end.

and without the w/d bars the tongue weight may SAG the rear suspension on many tow vehicles.

the truck can MOVE, a tire go flat and so on.

and what if u need the truck for a beer, a tim hortons, some ketchup chips or a bag of smarties...??

the tongue jack is rated to MUCH more than the tongue weight,

and RAISING the front means LESS jacking to get a tire off the ground.

and using the tongue jack means the trailer can be LEVEL (front to back) after jacking up the frame.

changing a flat roadside, especially on a multi axle trailer (using a ramp) staying connected is reasonable.

but WHO here leaves the trailer CONNECTED to a tow vehicle for extensive work or prolonged repairs???

(a long quiet pause)

i can't find ne threads titled "install new axles, shell off restoration or full monty, while HOOKED to me truck"
____________

MANY campsites require the tongue jack to SUPPORT the trailer front (extended) and with folks inside.

so strength of the tongue jack isn't an issue.
____________

typically here when a simple thread about 'how to tighten a wingnut' or

a personal report about an accident or whoops is posted,

ALL sorts of "here's what U shoulda done" stuff gets posted.

not my intend 2 do that.
____________

THANKS for the follow up phantom,

hope the repairs go well and post some pictures if ya can...

we love looking at OThER peoples disasters...

cheers
2air'
Well since you know it all I'll wait till I see your tounge jack post, extended full out, colapsed like a wet noodle when the trailer shifts from an earthquake or nearby tornado and puts all the weight
of the trailer on the post, from an angle, pushing it with the total weight or the trailer, overpowering the 3500 # rating of the only thing between you and the trailer. Then I'll put a big block of wood under my fully closed up jack post, unhook and go for my Tim Horton break where I'll have some buttertarts and wonder who will be there to lift your trailer when the jack is now bent in half.
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Old 11-08-2009, 11:16 PM   #31
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when working under things, i use jacks for lifting and stands for supporting.

i'm curious if anyone has supported the frame, deflated the tire and still had enough room to remove the tire/wheel. (with good axles)
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Old 11-10-2009, 09:00 AM   #32
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PLEASE Gentlemen.... Shacksman & 2air.... let us not bicker...
There is more than one way to skin a cat. Lets just learn, consider all options, use our best judgement and due caution. While I greatly appreciate and respect Andy's tremendous amount of experience and sound advice... I still might raise both wheels to grease the bearings next time. However, I could be MUCH more careful. Better jack stands with wider bases would not have tipped. Wood blocks braced under the rear frame extensions would have prevented disaster. Stabilizers down on blocks would have prevented side shift (I know they are not intended to support the full trailer weight). I wanted to do both sides at the same time to be more efficient in the cleaning-packing process. The front tongue jack WAS extended quite high. Even after the shift and fall... and twist to the jack stem, it was not damaged. But my trailer is very small. We all have slightly different needs and perspectives... Even as to the need for a 'Tim Horton' break... whatever that is!... Wish I have gotten 'before' pics but I was just to upset at the time. Perhaps the dealer took some. More to come when repairs complete.
Be well and thanks to all for the input.
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Old 11-10-2009, 10:41 AM   #33
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good follow up phantom.

along with the precautions planned NEXT time around is awareness of WHAT caused the whoops.

raising the bottle JACK after the other side was on a stand.

that 1 or 2 extra pumps AFTER stabilizing was probably the issue.

but you know this already.

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-10-2009, 08:53 PM   #34
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"Tim Horton's break"???

Known as Tim Ho's in our area...
Tim Hortons - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Old 11-14-2009, 07:52 AM   #35
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Update

Well the Bambi's back! Picked it up from Woodland Travel on Thursday 11/12.
Just 2 weeks from the date of tragedy. All-in-all at great response and turn-around time thanks to efficient insurance, adjusters, parts ordering and technicians. Overall a pretty good job. I always expect perfection but that is seemingly impossible. The caulk in the rivet seams is much fatter than the factory seems. The under belly pans don't fit very well. Some seam gaps are 1/2", filled with black silicone. Right rear moulding by storage door is now wavy... not smooth or straight. I guess I always expect 'perfect' work., but people, mechanics, parts(?), Airstreams... none are perfect. I hate to complain but am anxious to be on the road. We are packing and will depart on Monday 11/16 for Mammoth Cave, KY. You can follow this winter's travel blog...
Adventures of Phantom & Bunny - Volume 2 - the Southwest. at:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/blog...0-phantom.html
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Old 11-14-2009, 10:16 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phantom View Post
Well the Bambi's back! Picked it up from Woodland Travel on Thursday 11/12.
Just 2 weeks from the date of tragedy. All-in-all at great response and turn-around time thanks to efficient insurance, adjusters, parts ordering and technicians. Overall a pretty good job. I always expect perfection but that is seemingly impossible. The caulk in the rivet seams is much fatter than the factory seems. The under belly pans don't fit very well. Some seam gaps are 1/2", filled with black silicone. Right rear moulding by storage door is now wavy... not smooth or straight. I guess I always expect 'perfect' work., but people, mechanics, parts(?), Airstreams... none are perfect. I hate to complain but am anxious to be on the road. We are packing and will depart on Monday 11/16 for Mammoth Cave, KY. You can follow this winter's travel blog...
Adventures of Phantom & Bunny - Volume 2 - the Southwest. at:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/blog...0-phantom.html
An Airstream dealer, is a representative of Airstream.

They are supposed to perform whatever repairs that they undertake, equal to, or better, than the factory.

Doing anything less than that equal to, is a dis-service to the trailer owner.

Insurance companies do not get involved with the quality of a dealers work, since the owner picked the shop.

If your not happy with the repairs, "for any reason", you should notify the repairing dealer, and make arrangements to have the repairs corrected to your satisfaction.

Splicing metal side sheets when paid to do the entire sheet, does become insurance company business, when they paid for a complete repair and only a partial repair was made. That borderlines on "fraud".

Sloppy repairs, that can be seen, usually indicte far worse than that, "under the covers".

Pride in workmanship, is slowly escaping the American way of life.

Always insist on having an insurance job, performed to perfection, or else.

Andy
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