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Old 04-14-2013, 08:20 PM   #1
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1975 31' Sovereign
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Tongue Jack

My husband and I are in need of some help. We purchased a 1975 Sovereign 31 ft Airstream. When we purchased the Airstream it had an electric jack and at time of purchased worked, shortly after we moved and the the jack would not work. Hubby and father-in-law tried to get the jack to work again, unfortunately we had to scrap it. There were no markings on the jack to give us information on what type of replacement we would need. We would like some help on how to figure out what size jack we would need. We would like a manual and the whole lb thing has us confused, we tried to get help from a local Camping World about jacks but they were not as help as we would have liked. We decided it was time to ask the experts that have first hand experience.

In summary: What size tongue jack (lb) would we need for our 31 ft Airstream with a gross vehicle weight of 7200 lb?
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:42 PM   #2
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The only one I have experience with is the Barker 3000lb unit. Excellent unit, VG customer service. Several different models available.

Bob
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:46 PM   #3
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Barker, Bulldog, Atwood all make good jacks. Reese has recently re introduced a line of jacks, but I have not seen one yet. Their old ones were great, but long discontinued. There may be others I am unfamiliar with. You need one in the 3000# range. Try to stay with quality name brand jacks, there are some poorly made offshore units which will not hold up. Many from even a quality brand may be sourced offshore, but are built to better standards, and are good units. What I am saying is you no longer can judge a hitch jack quality by where it is made, but the reputation of the brand probably is still a good indicator.

BTW, I think the current factory hitch jack is made by Barker.
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:15 PM   #4
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I find top-wind manual units offer the most reliable (albeit higher effort) and cost-effective product. I've got a Ram A-frame 2000 lb jack in mine and it works great. I think I paid ~$15 at the local farm supply store.
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:12 PM   #5
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Thank you all for your input. We had thought about an Atwood orginally, but I will definitely look into the other brands you all have listed.
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:09 PM   #6
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I recently replaced my who-knows-how-old electric jack with a Barker 3000lb one. I went with Barker based on reviews nad discussions in other threads here on the forums. I am NOT disappointed! I found the best price at: https://www.adventurerv.net/
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:36 PM   #7
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ebay is your friend when it comes to tongue jacks. Rebuilt with a 1 year warranty $79.00 to $114.00 do a search. Stay away from the Chinese jacks. BTW you don't need the lights they put on them either.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:06 PM   #8
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I've found a sturdy 5000 lbs manual jack to be just the thing; the effort involved is minimal for both myself and webspinner. Manual jacks are a lot
more reliable in my estimation.

- Bart
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:19 PM   #9
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I've got a rather desperate situation with a tongue jack tonight. On my 1974 ambassador, trying to remove the tongue jack, I have discovered there is a another cylindrical sheath / flange made to the column underneath the three bolt pattern plate on the frame.

Does anyone know how this sheath is made to the main column on the electric jack?

I wrongly assumed that after pulling the three bolts that I would be able to pull old-time Jack straight up out of the trailer tongue.
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:47 PM   #10
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:40 PM   #11
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It's dark out, so I can't attempt the picture now, but the sheath in question appears to be a spacer, not numbered, just above part 23 in the attached diagram. When installed to the trailer's a-frame, this flange acts as a spacer inside the hole of the plate located about 4-6" below the top one (that you actually make the three bolts to).

A friend suggested that we Sawz-All the main tube above this flange / sheath.

As you can see in the drawing, it is slightly flared at the top, seemingly to keep the assembly from being removed from the trailer a-frame / jack mounting plate area, as the hole that the entire jack goes through) is just to small to get the flared ?



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Old 04-17-2013, 09:14 PM   #12
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My suggestion is you are going to replace jack do as your friend says sawzall off
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:21 PM   #13
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Was afraid of that. Ah well, it was intermittent anyway and the gear / motor housing was actually chipped where the recessed bolts made it to the main column. A new Barker 3000 will be taking the original's place.
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:24 PM   #14
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Are you sure it not just pressed on and can't be broken loose with a chisel ? Drawing better than a picture anyway.
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