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Old 04-17-2013, 09:31 PM   #15
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I installed a Barker as a replacement for the original unit on my 81 last fall. Very happy with it so far.
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:44 PM   #16
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Same friend suggested a big cold chisel too. Getting the angle on it for a good downward strike is the challenge with the propanes right there. But I guess this mystery sheath / collar hasn't been an issue for anyone else?

Not seeing any set screws (like the ones that marry the gear / motor housing to the main column) or crimps or tack welds is very odd. I've spun the jack around several times and can't see what I'm missing.

I've already had to right-angle grind a bolt head off, so why not continue with the heavy machinery?!
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Old 04-19-2013, 12:31 AM   #17
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Well, had a moderately successful day. Cut off the original electric jack and installed the Barker VIP 3000. Somehow, neither of the two wires that exit through the frame near the tongue seem to power the new jack?

Leaving the jack out of the equation, metering one of these two tongue wires, while holding the common meter contact to the frame, I show 12VDC.

The 2nd wire doesn't show anything and I believe it is the loop back to the trailer brakes. One of the two Bargman emergency brake-away switch wires is connected to this "dead wire". The Bargman break-away, when connected to nothing (pin in) does not show continuity. When the pin is pulled, there is continuity. I believe this is proper.

At any rate, I was careful to grind the paint from the area where the Bargman jack would be making contact and even wire brushed the underside of the jack mounting plate for good measure to assure a good ground.

The wire that delivered 12VDC is made to the Barker jack lead (fused). Metering, with the black common on the grounding bolt and the red inside the Barker motor housing at the courtesy lamp, I see 12VDC. However, the lamp does not illuminate and the jack is not functioning.

I'm confounded for the third time in as many days.

Ideas for what I'm doing wrong?
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:04 AM   #18
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It's best not to run the jack through your brake or break-a-way wires. The wires you describe may be brake wires.
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:13 AM   #19
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is the jack fuse ok?
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:20 AM   #20
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There is continuity between the lead wire end and wires in the jack head. With respect to not tying into the break-away wiring, that runs counter to the Airstream Service Manual, which directs their technicians to tie the 12V main wire from the OEM electric jack into the hot wire at the break-away?
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:42 AM   #21
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Thumbs up Great customer service....

Call Barker customer service, it may be something as simple as the limit switches needing to be synchronized.

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Old 04-19-2013, 08:24 PM   #22
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Upon connecting the TV to the trailer, the Barker roared to life. Wonder if this is right? Thanks for all the ideas!
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Old 04-19-2013, 08:47 PM   #23
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Question No....

Was the umbilical plugged in?

It either got it's power from the plug or possibly a ground from the hitch, or both.

It should work hitched or not.

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Old 04-26-2013, 03:38 PM   #24
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Robert,

That's my understanding too. The slow-burn 30A inline fuse that comes with it is intact. I did notice that the 3000 gets unhappy at it's limit and I've had to pull out the manual accessory handle to get it back within its limit to start working again. Seems a bit... uh, fidgety?
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Old 04-26-2013, 04:01 PM   #25
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Upon connecting the TV to the trailer, the Barker roared to life. Wonder if this is right? Thanks for all the ideas!
In general the break away switch and the tongue jack are connected to the charge line which runs from the trailer battery (may go through a fuse near the battery or converter/charger) to the TV via the umbilical cord.

If the jack works when the TV is plugged into the umbilical cord, but not when it is unplugged, then the line does not have proper connection to the AS battery. It can only get power from the TV, apparently.

This also would mean that there is no power to the break away switch, in case of an emergency, so it needs to be repaired.

You will have to trace the line from the battery up to the umbilical cord, looking especially for any fuses and corroded connections. There are times when a meter will show +12 volts on the wire, but because of corrosion, loose connection and so on, there is not enough current to operate the device, but there is enough to indicate 12 volts on the meter, because it draws so little current. Put a load on it, and the voltage drops to zero.

Of course I am assuming you have a charged battery in the Airstream, and the other 12 volt equipment is working properly in it., even when the 120 volt power to the converter/charger is disconnected.

I hope that gives you some ideas of the things which need to be looked at.
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Old 04-26-2013, 04:08 PM   #26
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Very helpful. Will check on this as the battery was not conditioned over the winter (naughty) and it could have no CCA in it but show 12VDC. I'm on it!

e
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:12 AM   #27
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Winestream-did you wire the jack into the connections at the break-away switch for your power jack? I'm considering moving to a powered jack since ours still has the original manual jack.
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:33 AM   #28
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Winestream-did you wire the jack into the connections at the break-away switch for your power jack? I'm considering moving to a powered jack since ours still has the original manual jack.
I replaced a power jack with a new power jack, so I just re-used the wire that was already there. It is a heavy gauge wire that snakes it's way into the frame rail. The break-away switch does T into the supply wire. You could use the supply line to the break-away as long as it is of sufficient gauge wire to supply the jack with enough amperage. I think my Barker recommended at least 10 AWG wire for supply. The break-away switch (if wired alone without a power jack previously) probably does not have large gauge wire running to it.

I did not specifically check the jack supply wire on my trailer for direct connection to the battery, but I know that I can run the jack when not connected to shore power and not connected to my tow vehicle; so the power has to be coming from the battery, I would think.
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