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Old 12-17-2009, 08:03 AM   #1
Zstream's Avatar
1963 26' Overlander
Indiana , Indiana
Join Date: Apr 2008
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Question To Jack or not to jack?

I would like to jack my AS up and set it on cinder blocks for an extended period of time.

I know not to place the blocks under the axles. Where is the best place to place 4 blocks on a 1963 dual axle Overlander?

OR- if it is not going to be moving for sometime- is it OK to leave it setting on the new tires?

Thanks for your input! ZS.

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Old 12-17-2009, 08:13 AM   #2
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1974 31' Sovereign
1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
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Don't put anything directly under the axles, you'll bend them and ruin your new tires faster than just leaving the trailer sit on them ever would.
The best place to support the trailer, long-term, is jack stands under the axle mounts on the frame. Don't put the stands under the axle tubes.

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Old 12-17-2009, 09:03 AM   #3

2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
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We go this way every the stands on the vertical axle plate.
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AF #1

"Sticks & stones can break your bones...and hail will dent your Airstream"

So when is this..."old enough to know better" supposed to kick in?
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Old 12-17-2009, 09:27 AM   #4
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2007 28' International CCD
West Hollywood , California
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Raising at Axle mounting plates or at factory-designated jack points? I'm still not sure which is better.

When I was at JC recently, I heard from Ron (who does the factory tour) that every airstream have designated jacking points a few feet behind the wheels. They are indicated by patches of diamond shaped (or square-shaped, depending on your perspective) on the belly pan.

I was told that jacking up at the axle mounting plates would risk some deformation or slight bending of these plates thus affecting the proper alignment of axles and wheels.

Last year, I had my trailer raised with scissor jacks at the axle mounting plates, right about in between two tandem axles. I also lowered the stabilizer jacks. Throughout the winter, the trailer felt solidly planted and there were absolutely no wobbling of the floor. And I felt comfort in doing so.

This time, I suppose I could use the factory's designated jacking points, but I'm a little concerned they are further down the rear.

The cantilever stress that the trailer's frame would have to endure are:
1) from a-frame jack to axle mounting plates (where the wheels are), this is same as when you are towing the trailer.
Or, 2) from a-frame jack to the designated jacking points. This a few feet further back of where the wheels are. Longer span, larger cantilever stress on the frame (?)

So, I don't know what the answer is...
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Old 12-17-2009, 09:42 AM   #5
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1965 22' Safari
Salt Lake City , Utah
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Cinder Blocks are not a good idea. The problem is that they are brittle. If the minor unevenness in the block doesn't match the unevenness in the driveway high concentration pressure points will develop and could cause the block to crack. The reason they work in buildings is the mortar bed they lay on conforms exactly to the block and foundation below. This means that there are no pressure points, the weight is evenly distributed over the whole block, no pressure concentration to promote block cracking.
Jack stands or wood blocks have enough flex (thus not brittle) to adjust to any unevenness so the applied load is more evenly distributed.
P.S. If you are leaving the wheels and tires on the trailer then the worst case scenario would be the cinder block cracks apart and the trailer drops down on its tires, hardly a major catastrophe.
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Old 12-17-2009, 10:06 AM   #6
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1975 Argosy 24
Malakoff , Texas
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Post#3 up there looks as solid as a fellow could want.
If you are on dirt, buy the 16"X16"X4" footing pads and
then refer to post#3.
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Old 12-17-2009, 10:42 AM   #7

2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
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Have always used the angel section of the mount plate ahead of the front axle. Our pad configuration makes the factory pads hard to access.

Taking the load off the axles will help their longivity, and storing the tires inside helps also.

AF #1

"Sticks & stones can break your bones...and hail will dent your Airstream"

So when is this..."old enough to know better" supposed to kick in?
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Old 12-17-2009, 11:09 AM   #8
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2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud , Minnesota
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The designated jacking points (if the label is still there at all) is on a 2" wide area of frame hidden by belly skin. I still can't find a 4-5 year old thread with pictures of an Airstream that fell off stands at the jacking points and the subsequent big-time damage to belly wrap.

In the first place, one should not suspend the weight of the trailer between the jacking points. These are fairly far fore and aft. Frame flex may cause a number of problems with just one indication being doors & windows that don't open/close the same (if at all).

There are multiple source threads but this is a good one!

Use the axle mounting plate IMO. Consider setting a scrap 2x6 the width of the trailer if you have any concern about sliding off the axle mounting plate. Ditto on the cinder block caution - only get under a cinder block elevated vehicle if your advanced directives and will are up to date. Please don't give early gifts to heirs who love Airstreams too.


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