OK, so I ordered 4 of the 5,000lb jacks from RV Xcessories they came in a day and half and with two crank handles for $128.00 including shipping. After playing with them with the kids raising them up and down, I hit the hardware for 3/8 - 16 x 1.00" bolts with lock washers and machine washers. Picked up a 3/8 tap and tap drill, oh and grabbed a bottle of permanent (red) loc-tight. The loc-tight really isnt needed with the lock washer but I did it for my peace of mind. First up was the removal of the BAL type satbalizers accomplished with ratchet and a 1/2" socket no issue. I then raised the scissor jack to the exsisting location to check out weather or not I could use exsisting holes. I could obviously use one of the holes and drilled and tapped to 3/8-16. I temporarilly installed one bolt and transfered hole on the other side of jack mount, drilled and tapped, installed both bolts with loc-tight and washer and done. I repeated this 3 more times and within an hour I was done. ..............I will be more than happy to explain more if anybody needs help.
Dave
My A/S does not have (never had) any attached stabilizers. I like the scissor jack idea rather than the jack stands I have now. Can you explain exactly where on the frame that you attached them? Do you have pictures? I still have the belly pan off mine so it I needed to add something now would be the time.
The PO of our Caravel went to a foreign car recycle yard and got four identical Toyota scissor jacks. He attached the base of each jack directly to the Caravel frame. If the ground is really uneven, I will put something under a wheel to get close to level. But if the space is near level, I can raise a side of the trailer a little to make it level. Two much, and it may twist the frame. I carry four 2x6x10 bases for the jacks. The jacks provide the stability of a concrete foundation. I mean, that sucker does not move, once in place. When not in use, they retract and hang down only about 2 1/2 to 3 inches. Don't need a place to carry and store them, and the lift is always in the same place.
You will need to make the frame the attachpoint for the jacks. the rear location is more critical due to the possiblility of dragging them and or tearing them off. Since you did not have them, you can take a piece of string and stretch it from the bottom of the rear bumper to the bottom of the rear tire. This will allow you to visualize the space in which the rear jack needs to hang so that you do not rip it off the unit in the event you drag the rear a bit. For my 31' the jacks are place approximately 40" to the rear of the tires or about 30% of the distance from rear tire to bumper.
If you have access to the frame I would suggest nut, lock washer, lok-tite, and bolt for fastening. The frame on the 70's trailers is pretty light gauge.
For the front jacks mine are about 2 foot forward of the entry door.
__________________
Dave
Operation "Save Rudy" Strike Team (charter member)
You mess with the Strike Team,... you mess with the whole trailer park!!
vhord,
This will allow you to visualize the space in which the rear jack needs to hang so that you do not rip it off the unit in the event you drag the rear a bit.
Thanks for the suggestion. Is this how you came up with your forum name?
It actaully came from an old '75 Olds wagon we had when I was a kid. It had the reverse 3rd row and a 455, so we aptly named it the Dragon Wagon because the exhaust fell off! When it came to my Airstreams I thought the name would fit with a bit different definition.
__________________
Dave
Operation "Save Rudy" Strike Team (charter member)
You mess with the Strike Team,... you mess with the whole trailer park!!
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