Stabilizers for Leveling

[Cobra7]

Do y’all use your stabilizers to level your Airstream?

[WaLee]

Nooooooo! Don’t do that!

[bweybright]

Put on your asbestos pants for the replies yet to come from those who don't read this answer to your question...

And to answer your question - no, they are stabilizers only.

I think general approach is to level side to side using the tires in what ever form or format you choose, then level front to back with the tongue jack.

Bob

[DKB_SATX]

The advice you've received so far is correct. However, if you're a nerdo like I am, you may want to know the "why" as well. Airstream's design intends for the trailer's weight to be supported at the axle(s) and the tongue, and if you take up a significant amount of that weight out at one of the corners the trailer can twist a bit and do things like bind the entry door. Besides twisting your expensive new toy being a questionable thing to do.

[rmkrum]

My stabilizers are too wimpy to level anything. Pick a more or less left/right level spot it stack blocks under tires, adjust fire/aft with the tongue jack, then if needed, crank stabilizers to just enough to control movement somewhat. Usually don’t bother unless we expect wind to bounce us on the suspension a bit.

There was one time in winter in Texas when I did jump on the stabilizers a bit heavy, but frankly, in that windstorm they did not help that much. We stayed off the road that day, and left the next when it was safe to drive. Whoosh went the schedule, but so what...better to be parked wishing you were on the road, than be on the road wishing you were parked...

[McDave]

A good rule of thumb for me is the last thing I do when I’m setting up the trailer is to lower the stabilizers, and the first thing I do when I’m getting ready to go is to raise them. Avoids crunching things when I raise and lower the tongue jack.

[rmkrum]

Yeah, dragging them, or the skids under the rear bumper is NOT a nice noise when you get under way, especially when the first try leads to removing the chocks keeping the wheels from turning...don’t ask. [emoji30]

[JMynes]

I’ll give one side an extra half turn to get to final level, but I’m not going to try to make up an inch side to side. That’s what blocks under the tires are for.

[Adventure.AS]

I use a Milwaukee M18 cordless, right-angle drill with an adjustable clutch. A socket adapter and a 3/4" socket fit the stabilizer adjustment nut.

I adjust the torque setting low enough so that the drill stops when the stabilizer foot touches the ground. This method works for me to prevent over extending the stabilizers and avoids twisting the AS body.

I also find that my X-Chock helps stop trailer movement.

[Rocinante]

Originally Posted by JMynes

I’ll give one side an extra half turn to get to final level, but I’m not going to try to make up an inch side to side. That’s what blocks under the tires are for.

Never ever do this. Not ever. Stabilizers are for stabilizing, not leveling. No leveling of any kind via stabilizers.

Well, it's your trailer and your money, so you can do what you want, but we would never do this to ours.

[PKI]

Lots of video discussing how to use blocks under the tires to level your coach. The good news is that many campgrounds have level parking pads/sites so you will not need to level unless you are very sensitive to level conditions. Note, the floor, bed, stove, sink and table may not all be level to each other. Takes some time to figure out what works best for you. Get a level and use it. Good Luck. Pat

[Rocinante]

Assuming you have a standard Dometic absorption fridge, the only level that matters when you're parked is the level inside your freezer. Use a bubble level in there to get the freezer where it needs to be. Then, calibrate any other method you use for leveling your RV against that one. After the trailer is level enough to suit, that's when you drop the stabs to reduce jouncing in the trailer during any interior acrobatic activities that may occur afterward.