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Old 04-30-2007, 12:36 PM   #15
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For people who haven't tried it, the little walki-talkie's you see in Wal-Mart, etc. are great for communicating when backing or guiding the trailer into a parking place. I don't know how we ever got by without them. They're great too for finding the wife in a big flea market!

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Old 04-30-2007, 01:21 PM   #16
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I looked at my BAL leveller and it doesn't say on it how much the weight rating is.

I agree, on soft dirt it's best to have a piece of wood to park on to make it easier to slide the leveller under it. We take turns cranking if it has to lift a long ways, and I don't think the leveller holding the tire at an angle is a big issue, as long as everything is chocked so it won't slip. We've been pretty happy with it and this is our fifth year using it. Id say if you can find out the weight rating and it's appropriate, get it.


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Old 12-23-2008, 07:14 PM   #17
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We have a 2005 19' Bambi with a GVW of 4500+ pounds, which works out to just a little over 1 ton per wheel when you subtract the 500 pound tongue weight. The BAL wheel leveler looks like a good bet, but I am concerned about the support plate angling away from the main tread the higher you go. An RV supply guy also said that the materials strength on the BAL units isn't what it used to be. What is the GVW/wheel weight on your 17 footer?
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Old 12-23-2008, 07:35 PM   #18
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You didn't have a tongue jack wheel on did you? I found out the hard way that a trailer can develop a mind of it's own when you unhitch with a tongue jack wheel without blocking the wheels.

I'm surprised you only had to do a side to side leveling once in a year. After all idaho is not all that flat. My experience is more like half of the sites need some kind of leveling. My main concern with leveling is operation and possible damage to the fridge. This is more of a cocern with older units though.
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Old 12-24-2008, 01:46 AM   #19
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you might like to check out the RV Pillo...kind of pricy, but they work great...we have the tandem model - it's well put together with multi-ply heavy material...I like it because I can back onto it and just add air till the level evens out...with the tandem model, if you use the 'wedge block' they sell, it becomes an effective parking brake as the 'pillo' is inflated... - Maker of inflatable RV levelers and chocks for your RV
Ray & Pat; Morada, CA
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Old 12-24-2008, 08:30 AM   #20
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One other thing to remember is that if you roll the tires over any type of block, be sure that the entire foot print of the tire is supported by the block. Tires can be damaged when the tread is partially hanging off the block. This causes more weight to be supported over a smaller area of the tread.

Jack Canavera
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Old 12-24-2008, 09:01 AM   #21
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It might have been mentioned. But I Cut some long wedeges out of 4x6 that fit betweent he wheels. drive up them on one side, then have one of those wheel chokes that goes between the wheels and screws tight to lock the wheels, so it won't roll back down the wedges of wood. Get it at the wally world for $20.00

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Old 12-24-2008, 09:40 AM   #22
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6 x 6 works better, wide enough to support the tread, and gives 6" of lift (of course, these have since been painted "silver"!), cost= free (scrap lumber);
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Old 12-24-2008, 11:07 AM   #23
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OK. This is an update on the BAL light trailer tire leveler. The tech lady at Norco Corp. looked it up for me, and the levelers are rated at 1700#--that's 400# too low for our 19' Bambi with any kind of load. I'll keep looking.
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Old 12-24-2008, 01:59 PM   #24
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I have to agree with BillTex. I use 2 x 6 's. Angle cut 1 end to act as a ramp. Stack as needed to make a higher ramp/leveler. They easily hold my 16,500 lb motor home. They split usually in 2 years, but they're free when made out of scrap wood. Just ask politely at your local construction site. They'll usually let you have 2 or 3 pieces, sometimes more. The old split pieces get a wonderful send off at the next campfire. Note: pressure treated wood splits sooner & can't be burned
"Sometimes I wonder if the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on, or by imbeciles who really mean it." Mark Twain

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Old 12-25-2008, 01:41 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by gorrissen View Post
After using our 16 foot for Bambi for a year we needed to level her side to side last week. We've a "roller" leveler that increases the height of the trailer as you drive further forward or backward on it.

However after achieving our desired height and blocking the trailer, when we disconnected the trailer the trailer moved downed the slope of the leveler, to the side many inches and once off of the leveler. This was very disconcerting.

What are we doing wrong? Should we disconnect the weight distribution bars before we roll onto the leveler? Is this type of leveler wrong for the Bambi?

Thank you, Willy
Willy, I don't know what a roller level is. I have seen a scroll shaped device that you put under the axle of leaf spring trailers and either pull forward or backward to raise a flat tire off the ground but it relies upon the tow vehicle holding the trailer fore and aft. If this lever is similar there is nothing to hold the trailer in place once you unhook the tow vehicle. Can you post a picture?
Don (KD6UVT) & Gail Williams

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Old 12-25-2008, 11:08 AM   #26
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We carry 2 pieces of 2 x 6 x4' that didn't cost me nuffin,they don't weight hardly nuffin and I can use em if I have to change a tire on the road. IF its more than 6"I need to level I am movin. I aint parkin on no sidehill.
Roger & MaryLou
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Old 08-02-2009, 07:50 PM   #27
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We use an aluminum wedge with it's own small chock which you back or pull foward on to the desired height, then set the smaller wedge chock so your tire doesn't roll back down. Works great & bought it at Camping World when we bought our 98 Bambi.
Should have got 2 instead of one because I've not seen them for sale. If anyone has a Level It leveler like this & would sell or know where I can get another please contact me though a reply or phone me @ 260-997-6925
Ken & Elaine

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