Hi there,
I'm considering getting stabilizer bars for this little 18'er. I don't currently have brakes on the trailer (considering that too) and feel that stabilizer bars with help with towing safely. My tow vehicle is a Toyota FJ Cruiser.
Do you all think that I should install the bars AND brakes or just one or the other?
(I'm new to towing trailers if you hadn't figured that out yet, a little nervous too, especially at high speeds - haven't gone over 40mph yet )
My suspicion is that your coach will have a tongue weight of approximately 300 pounds when outfitted for a trip. I am conservative when it comes to such a situation (I use weight distribution with dual cam sway control when I tow my 3,100 pound Minuet with my K2500 Suburban), and would suggest that a Reese or equivalent light weight weight distributing hitch would be a worthwhile investment. I doubt that your coach would approach the 400 pound tongue weight required for dual cam sway control, but one of the friction sway controls may provide you with some additional peace of mind -- but be sure to read the owner's manual so that you can understand the nuances of adjustment.
Good luck with your trailer/tow vehicle setup -- it sounds like your are on the right track!
Kevin
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Kevin D. Allen WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359 AIR #827
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400 VORTEC/4.11 Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)
Smaller trailers tend to be less stable than bigger ones which would argue for better sway control with a smaller trailer. That sway control can often be achieved by putting a larger portion of the trailer weight towards the tongue. Small Airstreams often provide this as well as good hitch to axle distance which also helps.
The best way to find out if you need to make changes is to test. Hitch up and take to the road. See how it handles. See how it responds to passing traffic and winds. Keep the speed down and avoid risky circumstances until you gain confidence in how your rig handles and know its limits.
Besides loading the rig properly, you can also provide sway control by your choice of tires and wheels, suspension improvements, and other things.
Properly functioning brakes on the trailer and a properly set up hitch are the critical safety factors.
The need for a weight distribution hitch is a bit less controversial than that for sway control devices. Don't get hornswoggled by all the dialog from the advocates for one position or method or other. Watch out for anyone citing safety and suggesting that these things will be your salvation from catastrophe. In many respects they are like shocks on your FJ Cruiser in terms of benefits.
Your rig is talking to you so listen to it. Drive safe.
From the looks of it, your water tank resides under the front window. Filling it completely will add substantial tongue weight. Make sure you have full propane also.
This might be very desirable if you want to use a weight distribution setup that incorporates sway control, such as a Reese Dual Cam.
My experience towing both small and medium Airstream trailers proves that weight distribution with incorporated sway control makes the towing experience much more relaxed.
Oh, and YES on the brakes, definitely.
It is really best if you load the traielr for travel, and then head for a truck scale. Get exact weights of the tow vehicle, trailer tongue weight, and trailer weight.
From there you can come back to us with the real numbers.
It is much easier to recommend steps for safe towing if the actual weights and measures are known.
I'm surprised that Uwe was the first to say you needed brakes. They are definitely a safety factor and something you need. There may be some that will argue that statement, but you will never hear someone come out of any braking situation and say, "darn, I wish I hadn't installed those brakes on the trailer."
It is human nature to hit the brakes when there is a sudden change in your driving situation, even when a sudden braking situation isn't required. Ever follow someone going 55 in a 55 mph speed zone and come across a cop with a radar gun? I'm always amazed how the guy in front of me suddenly thinks a sudden drop in speed to 45 in that 55 mph speed zone is going to keep him/her from getting a ticket.
Short trailers do tend to be affected by sway more than longer ones...less mass, less force required to affect its path. This is especially true with a shorter tow vehicle. I would think your FJ Cruiser is up to the task for the light weight 18'er so setting up the rig shouldn't be a tough task.
Good luck on setting up your rig and congratulations on your new to you Airstream...it's a cutie!
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2006 30' Safari - "Changes in Latitudes"
2008 F-250 Lariat Power Stroke Diesel Crew Cab SWB
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Thanks for the info!
I brought her to the nearby trailer service center - Western Slope Tralers - they seem like great folks. Got it there pretty smoothly, up to 63 mph or so, only swayed slightly when bigger vehicles passed, all in all went well.
I'm having the brakes hooked up and hope to find stabilizer setup to work with the brackets that are mounted in the picture below. I have heard a few times about the Reese Dual Cam but I'm not sure if they are compatible. I really don't want to grind/cut these brackets off to make room for a new setup but?......
Does anyone recognize these brackets? I will try talking with Reese to see what they say.
I haven't used that particular style of chain brackets, but it looks like they would work. Be sure they have some sort of locking pin or clip to hold the bracket in the over-center lifted position. And be sure they are the correct distance back from the ball for the bars you will be using.
I use Eaz-Lift brackets with my Reese Dual Cam bars; I just like the way they work.
And get a powered tongue jack. You'll thank me later.
The "Snap-Up Brackets" on your coach appear to be those that were often supplied with the 1960s era Reese Round-Bar hitches. These brackets will work with current Reese products -- the one thing to be aware of is that Reese has made spring bars in at least two or three lengths over the years -- since your brackets are welded-on, you will want to be certain that any new spring bars that you purchase are of a length that will work with your hitch's snap-up bracket placement.
Good luck with your project!
Kevin
__________________
Kevin D. Allen WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359 AIR #827
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400 VORTEC/4.11 Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)