got one thats been broken since before I bought the trailer, but never took it off, figuring that I'd have to fill the holes with something. Now, I've discovered a new leak up front, and I'm wondering if I should just remove the thing, and fill the holes w/ olympics, or replace it. (who knows what kind of "scar" it might have left on the underlying finish?).
seems to be made for an A/S, though...right color blue, on alluminum. hmmm....
Chuck: I replaced a smaller one that came with our new AS with the one you show, and I think it is a really good design, especially easy to read when pulling into the campsite.
Well now, that reminds me of a funny story. Maybe the level isn't broken and just needs to be adjusted properly.
How to get the trailer perfectly level
This seems a good day to describe my recommended method of perfectly levelling the trailer from side to side. I first get the trailer sufficiently level for comfort and for using the refrigerator by using one or two planks under one side. Then, I go to the large bubble level fixed across the front of the trailer, and the bubble will usually be off by an inch or so. The level is mounted with two screws through vertically slotted holes. Here is the important part - the screws are not tightened right up. This enables me to adjust the level until the bubble is exactly in the centre of the level marks. It works every time, and my dear wife and fellow campers are always impressed with the accuracy of this method. Nick.
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Originally posted by Nick Crowhurst
I have one. It was on my TT from the PO. I really like it. When looking for level ground I can move the trailer a little bit and see what the ground looks like. I can even judge how many lynx leveler blocks I need to make it right if I can not find a level area.
One came with my trailer. The dealer said not to install it. Did not want to put holes in my new reailer.
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Michelle
I'm not afraid I learned to drive in Washington, DC
Sarah
Ruby, (05 BMW R1200RT) serviced and put to bed for the winter
Daisy, (06 Diesel F-250 w/Tow Command)
Butter Cup, (06 Classic 31 w/dinette, solar) http://Michelles-Adventures.US
I had one on my previous Excella 500 but after a few years the ball started to rust. They are pretty nice if you can keep the shiney ball from rusting.
__________________ Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
I saw one of these on the inside of an AS that I was looking at post Katrina. The trailer was trashed but when I saw this post I remembered that the level bubble was over the bathroom door entrance. Seemed strange to me but I never really gave it much thought until now. Probably needs two people to level with this method.
Maybe a way to check the level of the tanks - when full the trailer tips back........
I took a two foot level and lay in insidethe door.
I can level it my self without having to go into and out of the trailer.
__________________
Michelle
I'm not afraid I learned to drive in Washington, DC
Sarah
Ruby, (05 BMW R1200RT) serviced and put to bed for the winter
Daisy, (06 Diesel F-250 w/Tow Command)
Butter Cup, (06 Classic 31 w/dinette, solar) http://Michelles-Adventures.US
I took a two foot level and lay in insidethe door.
I can level it my self without having to go into and out of the trailer.
thats what I've been doing, but it requires multiple trips back and forth from the toungue jack, and the door.
which isn't the end of the world, of course. The more critical question revolves around the fact there there IS one of these on my trailer, which is not functioning. The holes that were created by it must be sealed to prevent further leaking. so the question is, "should I do that by replacing this unit w/ a new one, or just rip it off and fill the holes?"
I think it depends on what the metal looks like under the old level. If you can make the metal match the surrounding area I would just fill the holes and let it go.
thats what I've been doing, but it requires multiple trips back and forth from the toungue jack, and the door.
which isn't the end of the world, of course. The more critical question revolves around the fact there there IS one of these on my trailer, which is not functioning. The holes that were created by it must be sealed to prevent further leaking. so the question is, "should I do that by replacing this unit w/ a new one, or just rip it off and fill the holes?"
OK, back to what you really wanted. What I did with unwanted screw size hole was put a rivit in the hole to plug it - using your favorite brand of sealant. The effect is the extra rivit gets lost in the sea of silver and other rivits - even though it's only plugging a hole. I have 7 of these where I removed the old TV antenna. Nobody can see them but me. They sell the Olympic rivits that match - with so few holes you can trim them with a sander or Dremel tool (what I used)
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What I did with unwanted screw size hole was put a rivit in the hole to plug it - using your favorite brand of sealant. The effect is the extra rivit gets lost in the sea of silver and other rivits - even though it's only plugging a hole. I have 7 of these where I removed the old TV antenna. Nobody can see them but me. They sell the Olympic rivits that match - with so few holes you can trim them with a sander or Dremel tool (what I used)
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