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Old 04-03-2009, 06:59 AM   #1
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reattaching stabilizer

Well, I got my stabilizer rod straightened and was ready to reinstall it to the aft, curb position when I found that one of the fasteners was *missing*. The single point that attaches towards the center of the trailer did have a threaded portion extending from under the trailer (i.e. when I removed the stabilizer at this point, all I had to do was remove the nut versus removing two screws/lock washers at the curbside edge). When I looked in the service manual, I see this fastener is a "3/16 inch J bolt". Hummmmm. I think I need a little more information! Is anyone familiar with this? Where I can get a replacement and what it takes to get it back in position? I have no idea how it would have migrated out of the hole....
Laura
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Old 04-03-2009, 07:08 AM   #2
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Laura,
A "J" bolt is simply a bolt in a "J" shape. It probably fell out of the hole. You might find it laying on the ground under the trailer. If you need one you can probably find them at a hardware store.

Take a look here...

Bolt Depot - J-Bolt Dimensions
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Old 04-03-2009, 07:23 AM   #3
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Whew --- sounds easy enough --- though I notice there isn't a 3/16 in the list at the link. I'll try Ace Hardware next. Hope it isn't an *odd ball* size! How about finding the remaining dimensions? I'm thinking the length isn't as important as the diameter.... I did fish around on the ground with a magnet. Zilch. Course, the lawn company came to mow (for the first time since Christmas I think). Maybe their mower slung the J bolt across the yard?
Laura
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Old 04-03-2009, 07:35 AM   #4
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Laura,
3/16" seems kind of puny to be holding a stabilizer jack to a trailer frame. Can you measure the diameter of one of the other stabilizers? I would think more along the lines of a 3/8" bolt.
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Old 04-03-2009, 07:39 AM   #5
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I didn't have my glasses on when looking at the service manual - maybe it was 5/16". I'll look again after work and crawl under the AS to get a look at the others. I'm wondering if it would be prudent to remove one of the other stabilizers to get a better idea of the dimensions of the hooks and see what it takes to get one in & out. Guess it's not too much work to do that --- until I gall the threads or something. You know, it's never *that easy*....
Laura
Thanks for the quick responses Carl!
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Old 04-03-2009, 07:48 AM   #6
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Laura,
Taking one of the other "J" bolts to match the size would be a good idea. Hit is with a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster or WD-40 in a pinch, let it soak in and then try wrenching the old bolt off. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Also what make & model stabilizer are they? All the instructions I find on the web for BAL stabilizers use a regular olf self threading bolt. Maybe the older models used something different.

http://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/ma...20(20-8-T).pdf
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Old 04-03-2009, 08:07 AM   #7
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Laura,

Also what make & model stabilizer are they? All the instructions I find on the web for BAL stabilizers use a regular olf self threading bolt. Maybe the older models used something different.

http://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/manuals/T-Type%20Stabilizing%20Jack%20(20-8-T).pdf

??? I'll have to check the manual tonight! Thanks for your help.
Laura
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Old 04-03-2009, 08:14 AM   #8
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Here is a picture from the 75 Service Manual.
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Old 04-03-2009, 08:21 AM   #9
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Wink It's A Vintage Thang

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Here is a picture from the 75 Service Manual.
Eureka...So it is a vintage thang.

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I didn't have my glasses on when looking at the service manual - maybe it was 5/16".
Laura,
The "J" bolt is 5/16".
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Old 04-03-2009, 08:30 AM   #10
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How'd you do that so quick Richard?

Okay 5/16" it is... will stop at the hardware store on my way home and see what they have before taking another stabilizer loose. Maybe I'll get lucky and it will fit the first time... ohhh, shouldn't have said that!
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Old 04-03-2009, 09:48 AM   #11
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Maybe I'll get lucky and it will fit the first time... ohhh, shouldn't have said that!
You realize you have just doomed yourself to a lifetime of searching.
The stabilizers on our trailer are held in place by self-tapping bolts, if you can't find a J bolt, maybe you can use one of them.
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Old 04-15-2009, 11:00 AM   #12
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Final report

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You realize you have just doomed yourself to a lifetime of searching.
The stabilizers on our trailer are held in place by self-tapping bolts, if you can't find a J bolt, maybe you can use one of them.
I did, finally, give up the search. It was driving me batty....

I purchased 3" and 5" (5/16") J-bolts at ACE hardware. The 3" ended up fitting. I have NO idea how it worked. I kept using a wire hanger to find what the J hooked onto inside that hole. Never could find a bolt-hanger in there. Finally put the J-bolt up in there and, after toggling it around for a few minutes, it grabbed on something and held. Got the stabilizer back in place and used it this weekend. I did notice that it is somewhat more difficult to turn now, but I got it extended/retracted without any real difficulty.

Thanks for all your help!!!
Laura
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Old 04-15-2009, 11:13 AM   #13
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I did, finally, give up the search. It was driving me batty....

I purchased 3" and 5" (5/16") J-bolts at ACE hardware. The 3" ended up fitting. I have NO idea how it worked. I kept using a wire hanger to find what the J hooked onto inside that hole. Never could find a bolt-hanger in there. Finally put the J-bolt up in there and, after toggling it around for a few minutes, it grabbed on something and held. Got the stabilizer back in place and used it this weekend. I did notice that it is somewhat more difficult to turn now, but I got it extended/retracted without any real difficulty.

Thanks for all your help!!!
Laura
Laura.

The "J" bolt hooks on to a "crossmember," which also supports the jack.

Crossmembers run between the 2 frame rails.

Andy
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Old 04-15-2009, 11:24 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funkill View Post
I did, finally, give up the search. It was driving me batty....

I purchased 3" and 5" (5/16") J-bolts at ACE hardware. The 3" ended up fitting. I have NO idea how it worked. I kept using a wire hanger to find what the J hooked onto inside that hole. Never could find a bolt-hanger in there. Finally put the J-bolt up in there and, after toggling it around for a few minutes, it grabbed on something and held. Got the stabilizer back in place and used it this weekend. I did notice that it is somewhat more difficult to turn now, but I got it extended/retracted without any real difficulty.

Thanks for all your help!!!
Laura
Laura,
I am glad to hear that you are once again "stable."
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Old 04-15-2009, 11:51 AM   #15
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Thanks Andy, I hope I *caught* the cross-member!!

Dietz --- not sure how long I'll be stable - but it sure felt good for the weekend!
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Old 03-20-2010, 06:33 PM   #16
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I realize this is a dormant / dead thread, but let me see if I can revive it.

I never knew of J bolts until reading this thread. Regardless, it seems like they are one of those intended one-time-use things which I tend to not like. In other words, if you need to remove one, you're more likely to break & replace than remove.

I think it was ROBERTSUNRUS that posted in another thread that he drilled a 1" hole in the belly pan next to the jack's bolt hole and then held a nut in place and sealed / covered the hole w/ duct tape. Anytime someone mentions duct tape as part of a repair, I tend to shy away. But, in this case it's at least serviceable. Not like the belly of my '74 is in great shape anyway.

Anyone else have other creative solutions? If not, then I think I'm off to Lowe's tomorrow to look for J-bolts, or else buy some all-thread and make my own J bolts with the help of a saw and a torch. The other option I have would be to re-drill and tap new holes, but I'm not real cool with that since what I'm drilling into is only so wide and I've got to worry about the frame rail and the cross member. An offset on one of those means risk of missing the other with the drill. If I re-tap then I'm looking at 1/2" at this point. The corroded holes are about 3/8" in diameter (originally 5/16" plus corrosion) and seemingly 7/16" isn't real common to use anymore so I'd be looking at 1/2". So, in 30 years then someone (maybe me???) could potentially have to deal with the conundrum of corroded-out 1/2" holes! Not to mention I'd have to drill 1/2" holes in the jack itself which likely would clear-through to an edge of the mounting flange. Hmmm, J bolts are soundin' pretty good at this point.
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Old 03-20-2010, 10:25 PM   #17
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I agree with you on the duct tape.

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Originally Posted by atobols View Post
I think it was ROBERTSUNRUS that posted in another thread that he drilled a 1" hole in the belly pan next to the jack's bolt hole and then held a nut in place and sealed / covered the hole w/ duct tape. Anytime someone mentions duct tape as part of a repair, I tend to shy away. But, in this case it's at least serviceable. Not like the belly of my '74 is in great shape anyway.
Hi, you are correct; That is exactly what I did. My choices were to remove the entire belly pan, to gain access to the cross members and install speed nuts. Or maybe weld a nut in place on the cross members. The fact that they used self tapping bolts into a thin piece of steel [cross member] giving the bolt only about two threads to hold it in place and under a load when deployed, isn't enough. And the fact that the belly pan would have to be re-installed before the stabilizers are installed makes it very inconveinient. So, for me, to drill out 1" holes so I can have a wrench hold a nut in place was my best option. I wanted to buy 1" plugs for the holes, and still might some day, but in reality the belly pan is so thin, like aluminum foil, that screwing or riveting a plate/cover in place, would just weaken the belly pan. So duct tape was the hot ticket at the time.

Duct tape isn't my choice for repairs either, but the way Airstream mounted my stabilizers was quite weak. Now they are rock solid.
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