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Old 04-15-2009, 12:51 PM   #15
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Thanks Andy, I hope I *caught* the cross-member!!

Dietz --- not sure how long I'll be stable - but it sure felt good for the weekend!
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Old 03-20-2010, 07:33 PM   #16
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I realize this is a dormant / dead thread, but let me see if I can revive it.

I never knew of J bolts until reading this thread. Regardless, it seems like they are one of those intended one-time-use things which I tend to not like. In other words, if you need to remove one, you're more likely to break & replace than remove.

I think it was ROBERTSUNRUS that posted in another thread that he drilled a 1" hole in the belly pan next to the jack's bolt hole and then held a nut in place and sealed / covered the hole w/ duct tape. Anytime someone mentions duct tape as part of a repair, I tend to shy away. But, in this case it's at least serviceable. Not like the belly of my '74 is in great shape anyway.

Anyone else have other creative solutions? If not, then I think I'm off to Lowe's tomorrow to look for J-bolts, or else buy some all-thread and make my own J bolts with the help of a saw and a torch. The other option I have would be to re-drill and tap new holes, but I'm not real cool with that since what I'm drilling into is only so wide and I've got to worry about the frame rail and the cross member. An offset on one of those means risk of missing the other with the drill. If I re-tap then I'm looking at 1/2" at this point. The corroded holes are about 3/8" in diameter (originally 5/16" plus corrosion) and seemingly 7/16" isn't real common to use anymore so I'd be looking at 1/2". So, in 30 years then someone (maybe me???) could potentially have to deal with the conundrum of corroded-out 1/2" holes! Not to mention I'd have to drill 1/2" holes in the jack itself which likely would clear-through to an edge of the mounting flange. Hmmm, J bolts are soundin' pretty good at this point.
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Old 03-20-2010, 11:25 PM   #17
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I agree with you on the duct tape.

Quote:
Originally Posted by atobols View Post
I think it was ROBERTSUNRUS that posted in another thread that he drilled a 1" hole in the belly pan next to the jack's bolt hole and then held a nut in place and sealed / covered the hole w/ duct tape. Anytime someone mentions duct tape as part of a repair, I tend to shy away. But, in this case it's at least serviceable. Not like the belly of my '74 is in great shape anyway.
Hi, you are correct; That is exactly what I did. My choices were to remove the entire belly pan, to gain access to the cross members and install speed nuts. Or maybe weld a nut in place on the cross members. The fact that they used self tapping bolts into a thin piece of steel [cross member] giving the bolt only about two threads to hold it in place and under a load when deployed, isn't enough. And the fact that the belly pan would have to be re-installed before the stabilizers are installed makes it very inconveinient. So, for me, to drill out 1" holes so I can have a wrench hold a nut in place was my best option. I wanted to buy 1" plugs for the holes, and still might some day, but in reality the belly pan is so thin, like aluminum foil, that screwing or riveting a plate/cover in place, would just weaken the belly pan. So duct tape was the hot ticket at the time.

Duct tape isn't my choice for repairs either, but the way Airstream mounted my stabilizers was quite weak. Now they are rock solid.
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