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Old 08-12-2010, 02:22 PM   #1
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Ramp advice

Friends: I park overnight to load and unload on a 5-degree inclined paved street. I havenít figured the inches of rise I need exactly, let's say 12 inches, no? Ramps would let me quickly level every time. I don't disconnect from the TV while loading and unloading. And Iíll leave them at home, so the weight and bulk of the ramps is no big deal. Any suggestions for building or buying such ramps? Would two ramps or four be better? 'Course we're talkin' four tons of fun here. Many thanks. Ė John
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Old 08-12-2010, 02:42 PM   #2
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Concrete. If you do it just right you can drive your tow vehicle between them and have the traylah, with its wider wheel track, go up in the air.
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Old 08-12-2010, 02:45 PM   #3
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I built some 2x10 plank ramps, using wood dowels and holes to keep them from slipping. About 48" long were long enough to cope with my unit. Something similar, pegged with rebar to the driveway so they'd never shift on you, just might be your answer. You could even get fancy and start out with a wider base, say 2-2x10's side by each, with the lip radiused to accept minor changes in attack angle.
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Old 08-12-2010, 02:58 PM   #4
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I just reread your original post and note you are parking in the street. I like Jammer's suggestion. I'd modify my suggestion to include driving a couple of locater pipes into the street where you need the ramps so the location never changes and the rebar pins would slip right in. Get some rebar end caps of the right dimension to drive into the pipes between sessions, thus keeping the pipes from filling up with crap. Bend the end of the rebar pins to make insertion and removal simple. Then purchase one of those "Airstream Parking Only" signs and install it on a pole in front of your house. Enjoy!

P.S. Drill the pilot holes for the pipe on a holiday when the road crews are unlikely to be working. Labor Day comes to mind... heheheh.
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Old 08-12-2010, 03:37 PM   #5
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See if I am understanding this right. You park the tv and trailer on the street that has a 5 degree incline and want to level out the trailer while still keeping it connected to the tv? This would mean to me that you are using the hitch point as the fulcrum? The only way I can see this working would be by backing the trailer up on the ramps. Also, I think you may be looking at more than 12". What is the length from the hitch to your back axle? If it is around 18', that would take a 19" ramp. JMHO
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Old 08-12-2010, 05:49 PM   #6
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RLS: I am guessing that a 12-inch rise will get me close enough to level to get the refrigerator cooling overnight but maybe a few inches higher might be needed. And couldn't I either back onto the downhill ramp or pull forward onto an uphill ramp? -- John
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Old 08-12-2010, 06:35 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBinKC View Post
RLS: I am guessing that a 12-inch rise will get me close enough to level to get the refrigerator cooling overnight but maybe a few inches higher might be needed. And couldn't I either back onto the downhill ramp or pull forward onto an uphill ramp? -- John
I would say no, if you are going forward, the tv is always going upwards. My brain cannot figure out how that could be achieved. Backing onto the ramps would be, to me, the only and best way.
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Old 08-12-2010, 10:18 PM   #8
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I'd move to a level street.
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Old 08-19-2010, 03:01 PM   #9
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Pulling forward up hill -
If you are pointed down hill (TV headed down) and put ramps in front of the tires on the trailer, (Move in Drive) then the trailer will go up the ramps to level it's self and the back end of the TV will be going down. This will cause issues at the hitch.

Backing down hill -
If you are pointed up hill (TV headed up) and put the ramps in back of the rear tires on the trailer, (Move in reverse) then the trailer will go up the ramps to level it's self and the TV will be going down the hill. This should not cause issues at the hitch.

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Old 08-29-2010, 12:18 PM   #10
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I assume you mean longitudinal slope as opposed to cross slope. Measure the distance from the hitch point to the axle, multiply that distance by the slope (.05), that number is the percent of a foot you will need to raise the wheels to get level.
Assuming 15 feet from the hitch to the axle would be 15x.05=.75 = 9 inches.
Good luck.
Tom
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Old 08-30-2010, 03:02 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by tomhack1 View Post
I assume you mean longitudinal slope as opposed to cross slope. Measure the distance from the hitch point to the axle, multiply that distance by the slope (.05), that number is the percent of a foot you will need to raise the wheels to get level.
Assuming 15 feet from the hitch to the axle would be 15x.05=.75 = 9 inches.
Good luck.
Tom
Tom,
I'm not sure how you get that formula, but I would have to say from doing an AutoCAD rendering it is ?? Using the 15' distance, AutoCAD has the ramp at 15-11/16". My 25' has the front wheels at 15' to the hitch, so that is why I thought the distance would be more like 18' - 20' to the rear ones.
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Old 02-04-2011, 11:33 AM   #12
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John et al,
Not to disparage any of the innovative ideas offered, but what is the problem with parking overnight on a 5 degree slope? We have a sloped driveway that I will park our soon to be delivered FC23'FB on overnight for loading/unloading, and I am interested in any problems that I should anticipate. With our 17' Casita, I simply backed down, chocked, unhitched (sometimes leaving chains and connector attached), and lowered the tongue until I was level. I note that you don't want to disconnect the TV, but that may well be far less trouble than using ramps. I know that the fridge shouldn't be operated out of level when stationary, and I wouldn't be using the waste systems, but what else?
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Old 02-05-2011, 06:43 AM   #13
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Joe: Thank you for the tip on lowering the tongue. I'll try it. My primary concern is getting the refrigerator cold before I load it. A secondary concern is liability in the event of an accident, so I haven't disconnected on my steep incline. Best wishes, John
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Old 02-05-2011, 09:14 AM   #14
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you will be limited in ramp height by the ground clearance of the airstream. probably 9 inches or so, and you would not want the trailer to hit the ramp when you pull off, so I do not think you can get enough height to make the ramp worth the trouble. I would go the route of lowering the tongue. maybe just taking the wd bars off and lowering it, letting the back of the tv sag. or unhitch and reconnect the safety chains. I have read that on a fairly long trailer you can be off by 12 inches or so front to back and the refrigerator will work fine. If it is only one night I do not think it will be a big deal. if it is not level, probably better to run the frig on electric than gas, if that is an option.
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