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06-18-2007, 05:29 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1974 31' Excella 500
charlottesville
, Virginia
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 31
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question about my leveling
Well, this ole 74 excella 500, what a great one she is, but every so often she gets a little mistreatment, happen when the last guy I hired to move her. I don't have to move her often and so pay someone and he ripped the level right off the bottom just pulling out of the storage facility. I had asked him to help me crank the jack up fully, he goes..."it is up far enough" famous last words, first thing out the hatch, ripped it right off, and he had the nerve to blame it on low ground? duh?
so now I am faced with trying to level, I have been reading a little here about the leveling without the jacks, boards and stuff...may be the best idea.
Okay here is my question, I still have two jacks left. Can you believe that the guy I hired a year ago, did the same thing to the back one too? I even told this guy that ripped the second one loose. Both these guys are bonded, my parents let the last guy off the hook, this time I may send him a bill. I told him those things come loose and that I was too weak to crank it any more, asking him to help me? Like I said, he ignored me?
sorry this is so long, I am still frustrated with the event. Question....would using the the opposing jacks be a good idea? Or do I still need the other two places jacked with boards too? I have one jack in the front on one side and the opposite side in the back?
Now for me to fix this thing? I may get a quote because I really don't know much about all that, that will require me getting a quote first and sending this guy a bill. I think?
thanks for always being here to help me. jimmieanna
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06-18-2007, 06:13 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1986 25' Sovereign
Southern Middle
, Tennessee
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,319
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The stabilizers you describe are only to stabilize the trailer to keep it from rocking, not to level the trailer. You will find that if you try to level with opposing stabilizers, you will torque the frame and bind your entrance door. The cheapest way to level is to drive the trailer up on wooden 2X6's. They also make plastic ramps you piece together to get the heigth you need.
As far as the torn off BAL stabilizers, if the company you had move your trailer is bonded then have them replace the one you told the guy to crank up.
__________________
Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
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06-18-2007, 06:17 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2016 25' Flying Cloud
Sunnyvale
, California
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,894
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Don't let him off the hook...
Jimmie-
The crank-down jacks aren't for doing the leveling, but are required to stabilize the trailer and keep it from bouncing on springs when parked.. If I understand your post, you now have only opposing corners, which won't really stabilize the trailer.. The replacements are not really expensive from BAL, maybe a couple $ hundred all around, and are usually supplied as a set with both sides for front or rear... Get a bid from RV Repair shop (like Airstreams of Arkansas..) and have mover pay for damage he (not the ground..) did...
The trailer is leveled with boards or blocks under wheels to get side-to-side leve, and then with front jack to get front-to-back leveled, Then the jacks are cranked down to keep trailer from moving or bouncing...
__________________
Condoluminum
In Theory, there's no difference between Theory and Practice, but in Practice, there is usually a difference...
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06-18-2007, 06:21 PM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
1974 31' Excella 500
charlottesville
, Virginia
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 31
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Okay, that sounds like a good solution. The plastic ones are a lot easier to work with for me too it bet! That moving bricks, and trying to hand crank the old jack and place it and all that nearly put me in the coronary care unit today . So plastic works for me! grinning. I guess I can get them at a local rv center? Thanks for the info
Yeah, I still want to the guy to fix this, but I don't really need a new jack, it is fine, just got ripped loose.
thanks, jimmieanna
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06-18-2007, 06:25 PM
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#5
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Site Team
2002 25' Safari
Dewey
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 15,617
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Ditto to what the others have said about level vs. stabilize.
__________________
Richard
Wally Byam Airstream Club 7513
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06-18-2007, 06:36 PM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
1974 31' Excella 500
charlottesville
, Virginia
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 31
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hmmmm? no wonder I have never been able to get this thing level ? well live and learn. makes total sense.
good information, thanks again!
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06-18-2007, 07:54 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1986 25' Sovereign
Southern Middle
, Tennessee
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,319
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When you start looking for the plastic leveling blocks, pass on the yellow ones that look like logo blocks. Two of the six I bought broke when I ran the trailer up on them. I've seen the Lynx orange ones that I've watched numerous trailers drive up on and they seem sturdy enough. Walmart and Cabela's carry them.
Lynx Levelers - Home Page
__________________
Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
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06-18-2007, 09:08 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster
Ditto to what the others have said about level vs. stabilize.
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Just let your stabilizer dealer know you're working with Airstreams. It takes extra length screw shafts to work with Airstreams and it would be a mistake to pick up similar appearing B.A.L. stabilizers intended for SOBs.
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