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Old 05-23-2013, 11:16 PM   #1
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1993 34' Limited
Ten Mile (near Knoxville) , Tennessee
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Power rear stabilizers on 34' Limited

Well I have searched the forums and I have not found any reference to total replacement, parts or repair. I recently bought a '92 34' Limited and one of the stabilizers is not there and the other is pretty buggered up from a pretty nasty tail drag(s) and is jammed up and not functional.

I have also searched suppliers websites (new AS dealers also) and have not found any replacements or parts. I am thinking of removing all that is left and installing new manual stabilizers. Has anyone been through this or know where I can find new or used replacement parts? I know I would be fine with manual but I would like to go back with what it originally left the factory with.

Thanks and any help is appreciated.
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:36 PM   #2
cwf
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BAL stabilizers
BAL - Innovative Products for the RV Industry
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:02 AM   #3
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Look at the model 24210 motor drive for the BAL stabilizers too. It is on the BAL website.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:56 AM   #4
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You may have the same stabilizers as my '98 Limited. Here is a pdf of the unit parts list.

Pat
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Ultra 5000 Power Twin.pdf (1.60 MB, 82 views)
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Old 06-03-2013, 12:28 PM   #5
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1993 34' Limited
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Thank you to everyone for taking the time to reply......obviously I was not even thinking of the manufacturer as I was looking at all the retail sources. That is why the forums are here.

I will figure out what I need and get the replaced/fixed as needed.

The 34' is a going to be a challenge as it seems to be quite similar to what I have had in the past but yet still has unique features that I have never dealt with.
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Old 06-13-2013, 05:36 PM   #6
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Btw,

You can over stabilize and flex ends up so much your doors won't work right and other problems. Do be careful.
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmoore View Post
Thank you to everyone for taking the time to reply......obviously I was not even thinking of the manufacturer as I was looking at all the retail sources. That is why the forums are here.

I will figure out what I need and get the replaced/fixed as needed.

The 34' is a going to be a challenge as it seems to be quite similar to what I have had in the past but yet still has unique features that I have never dealt with.
Your jacks are called "BAL".

Some on line Airstream parts dealers have them, but only as a complete jack.

Repair parts for them have never been available.

Andy
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:14 PM   #8
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kmoore,
I have my electric rear and front jacks removed from my trailer right now because of some other extensive work that I'm doing (see this thread if you're interested http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ted-85517.html). In the next couple of months I will be disassembling and refurbishing the rear jacks (work on rust, bent metal, repaint, lube gearboxes and maybe disassemble/clean/lube gearboxes). When that time comes, I'll be doing some posting on that issue in this forum. The 5000 Power Twin is the same unit that I have in the rear of my '91. I believe that the manufacturing rights have been bought and sold a couple of times. Ultra Fab is the current manufacturer and here is the current version Ultra-Fab Power Twin Electric Stabilizer for Trailers and RVs - 18" Lift - 5,000 lbs Ultra-Fab Products Trailer Jack UF39-941600.

I'd do some online looking for a used unit in good condition. If you want to talk about this further, send me a PM and I'll send you my phone number.

BTW, I know right where Ten Mile, Tennessee is. You see, I am originally from Cleveland, TN and I attended the University of Tennessee in Knoxville for four years (graduated in 1971). While I-75 was still under construction, US-11 had really become choked-down with traffic. I used to drive back and forth on highway 411 or highway 58 lots of times. My 33 year old son was born in Wichita, KS but moved to Cleveland (actually the Eureka community in Bradley County) in 2002. My dad also grew up in Hardin Valley northeast of you. Sometimes, it's a small world!

All my best,

Steve
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Old 06-16-2013, 07:48 PM   #9
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Andy, I have read many of your comments over the past 2 years. I have these electric jacks on a '97 M35. I am having a problem with one of them, one side works correctly, however the other jack goes down, but will not come up via the toggle switch. Are you familiar with anyone who could repair this? I am in Maryland. Ted
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:24 PM   #10
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Tink, I suspect you have the Ultra Fab stabilizers. Check out the link above, and my pdf file posted earlier in this thread. Pat
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:57 PM   #11
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1993 34' Limited
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Andy thanks for the reply.

Steve I will check that out and decide what I will do. Right now I am using manual stands just to keep it stabilized. Small world isnt it, heck even people in Knox county ask where in the world Ten Mile is! Grew up in the midwest as an Army brat in Leavenworth and Sill, my sister and her family live in Tulsa. I have an office in Chattanooga and a few of our employees live in Cleveland!
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:58 PM   #12
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kmore,
For another point of connection, I used to live in Tulsa, OK for two years while I went to Spartan School of Aeronautics. We've now lived in Wichita for 37 years.

Ted,
If one of your rear jacks works here's something that I'd try if you are so inclined. In order to see if the problem is with the jack motor or the wiring running to it (including the control switch) you can remove the cover plate on the road side and that will expose the wires for the road and curb side motors. There are four big wire nuts that splice the eight wires together.





Then have someone operate the side that works and with a volt meter, check the wire nuts (black and red wires or the other pair with the white and green wires). Then stick the volt meter in the other pair of wire nuts and have the assistant operate the opposite side switch to see if you have voltage.

If you have voltage (polarity will reverse when switch goes up or down) then the fault is with the motor. If you do not have voltage, you can verify that the motor does work by directly powering the jack back in the back (put a 20 A circuit breaker in line with one of the power leads to protect the motor if there is a short). If the motor works when powered directly, The problem is in the wiring or switch. I'd start by removing the control box in the front storage compartment and see if the switch is faulty or a connection has come loose).

Steve
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:28 PM   #13
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Steve, excellent suggestions. Thank you very much for the advice. After seeing the pictures you have, I am sure it will be a poor connection. Given the use of wire nuts, I can only assume corrosion will be the culprit.
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:04 PM   #14
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Ted,
Corrosion is a big foe with the use of wire nuts on external connections as you mention. If you indeed do have corrosion or you just want to be proactive, you can remove the wire nuts one at a time, take the wires apart and take a small wire brush (about the size of a toothbrush and preferably one with stainless bristles) and brush the corrosion off until the copper is nice and shiny. Then take some silicone grease and apply it to the wires directly then re-twist the wires and install the wire nut. The silicone grease will help exclude moisture from your connection for many years to come. Clean your hands and the exterior of the wire nuts and wires with some sort of solvent that is effective in removing silicone. Then carefully use electrical tape to cover the wire nut and the insulation of the wire for an inch or two. Reinstall the wire nuts in their enclosure so that the inlet of the wire nut is angled down a few degrees. This will allow gravity to tend to drain any water away from the cavity of the wire nut. This approach is helpful on brake wires or any similar application.

Steve

PS
If you have further questions and would like to discuss this over the phone, send me a PM and I'll send you my phone number.
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