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Old 02-24-2007, 07:55 PM   #29
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Super Power Jack Owner's Instructions Have Arrived!

My Super Power Jack Owner’s Instructions arrived today from maker…
H&H Engineering, Division of Barker Manufacturing Co.

Markdoanne… Thanks for advising me to check their schematics…
I found the 30 amp slow blow fuse in their Installation and Wiring Diagrams.
See illustrations below and click on the images to see them enlarged.

Silvertwinkie… I was mistaken in my note to you where I said that my electrical panel case lists Circuit #6 for the Hitch Jack. I had actually read that in my 2007 Safari Manual. But closer inspection of my interior Parallax Power Circuit Breaker and Fuse Panel shows no designated breaker or fuse for the Hitch Jack!

Westfallia… Thanks for confirming that your Bambi is also wired directly to the battery and not to the internal fuse box.

All… This again is a good illustration of the importance of obtaining and reading all of the owner’s manuals, care and operating instructions, etc. for every piece of equipment in and on your trailer. I’m still waiting for Airstream to send me the twenty or so manuals that were not in my Delivery Case!

Conclusion… Current Airstream trailers such as mine are using a stronger H&H Super Power Jack, with a lifting capacity of 3500 lbs., and are wired directly to the battery using a 30 amp slow blow fuse.

SilverGate.
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Old 02-24-2007, 09:21 PM   #30
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Silvergate,

Excellent detective work.

So based on the posts here, it looks like the A/S documentation hasn't caught up with actual wiring practices.

I see in some of the schematics that the newer jacks take 20.5 amps. I guess that is why they don't wire them through the panel anymore and go direct to the battery.

Thanks for the explanation.
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Old 02-24-2007, 09:59 PM   #31
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Thanks...

Thanks, Markdoane, for the compliment!

Yeah, it was a lot of detective work for one not-so-little fuse…

But then again, I guess that is the value of these forums…

To share our knowledge to make it easier for us all!

Thanks, Mark!

SilverGate
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Old 07-20-2007, 10:19 AM   #32
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Thanks for this thread.....

I blew that fuse last night and didn't know it even existed. Like SilverGate I had no manual for the hitch in my AS documentation. The AS owners manual at least makes refrence to an inline fuse, so we searched and found the little yellow fuse holder. I got a regular 30 amp fuse at Wal Mart and the hitch is working again, but now I'll go find a stash of the slow blow fuses to keep in the trailer.

To make things even more confusing, I guess at the same time I blew the hitch fuse I also tripped the breaker labeled Bedroom-Converter. It took four tries over about 10 minutes before the breaker would hold. I guess the two were unrelated, but I just don't know.
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Old 08-01-2007, 03:20 PM   #33
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Seems my local retailers don't carry the 30 Amp, 32 Volt Time-Delay Fuse. I've tried the usual suspects including the auto parts stores. They carry Littlefuse and Buss brand fuses, just not this fuse. Should it be so hard to find?
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Old 08-02-2007, 12:34 AM   #34
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Got tired of fuses......

So when I replaced the GP-24 stock Interstate batteres with Lifeline 6VDC golf cart batteries, I scrapped the fuse entirely (which was giving me fits when it didn't make contact in the crappy stock fuse holder) and went with a 30 amp DC resettable circuit breaker. Just push the button if it trips, and you're good to go! Mount in inside the battery box..........
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Old 09-17-2007, 09:55 AM   #35
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I continue to blow these fuses. Three yesterday while trying to unhook from my TV. I drove through rain, so moisture could be an issue? I don't know. I took the top off the jack to look for wires touching that shouldn't be and could not see anything obvious. I'm ready to spring for the circuit breaker, but wonder if I have a larger problem with the jack?
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Old 09-17-2007, 10:57 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billberk
I continue to blow these fuses. Three yesterday while trying to unhook from my TV. I drove through rain, so moisture could be an issue? I don't know. I took the top off the jack to look for wires touching that shouldn't be and could not see anything obvious. I'm ready to spring for the circuit breaker, but wonder if I have a larger problem with the jack?
Billberk,

Sounds like you have other issues in the jack like a deformed drive gear or other binding problem thats causing the fuse to pop repeatedy. At this point, I would sugest a call to the manufacturer's tech support line and see if they can troubleshoot the problem with you over the phone.

Most companies' phone techs are very good at doing this.
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:55 AM   #37
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Fuse Options Barker Power Jack - Where to buy

Fuse options for Barker Power Jack:

Vetco sells an equivalent 30 Amp 250 Volt slow blow fuse. From what I can tell the 250 volt rating is AC. Five fuses for $9.00. Link below:

30 AMP 250V MDL Glass Fuse Vetco

I've also found the 30 Amp 32volt slow blow fuses at NAPA for $1.49 each. From what I can tell the 32 volt rating is DC. Link below:

30 AMP 32 Volt Glass Fuse NAPA
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Old 01-20-2014, 01:45 PM   #38
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The jack is relatively weatherproof so driving in the rain shouldn't cause a problem. As Lewster points out, binding is the likely cause of the problem. If I was faced with this, I would chock the wheels and use a floor or bottle jack and appropriate supports to lift and support the tongue and then run the jack up and down with no load on it while listening and watching for anything that seems wrong. The gears should have a sticky grease on them; it not uncommon for this grease to migrate to the inside of the cover where is is useless. The book says to inspect the gears annually and use Mobilith 460 or equivalent as needed. Pay attention when replacing the cover as the wires to the switch and light can easily get tangled up in the gears. The book also recommends removing the head from the post to insure there is a good dob of grease where the drive pin engages the slot in the post. If the head is removed and anything is turned, there is a procedure in the book that needs to be followed to sync the limit switches otherwise the post could run into the stop and bind. Resist the temptation to oil or grease the lead screw in the post. Doing so will attract dirt and it will bind. Is the battery charged and in good shape? A motor will draw more current under load if the voltage is low.
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Old 01-20-2014, 01:48 PM   #39
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Could be a worn nylon gear in the top of the jack- easy and inexpensive to replace. There is a "Long Long Honeymoon" video on replacing the nylon gear.
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Old 02-16-2014, 01:26 PM   #40
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This is an old thread but just a reminder to all. The jack is "timed" - read the sticker on the side of the head housing about how to time it. The jack has a cut off switch when the head is fully retracted or fully extended. If the timing is off, you will overload the motor and blow the fuse.
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:44 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverGate View Post
I am in process of stocking back-up fuses for the trailer…
Fuse for the power jack seems to be 30 amp, 250 volt.
But I so far I’ve found no specific size mentioned here in forums…
And the manual for my power jack was missing from my Delivery Case.
So, for those of you who have recent trailers…
What is the proper fuse type and size for the power hitch…
And where is it bought?

Thanks,
-- SilverGate

I have a new Barker jack, part number 31558, that uses a 30-amp slow blow fuse. It is not wired yet, but I will put a 30-amp slow-blow fuse at both ends of the hot wire in case of a short to ground.


The fuses are on Amazon.


Owner's brochure calls for 12 gage (STRANDED) wire directly to the battery, but the web site mentions 10 gage.

http://www.barkermfg.com/vip3500.pdf
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:45 AM   #42
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Just installed a power jack on my car trailer and it came with a reset button wired directly to the battery. I installed the button on the frame.
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