Power Jack fuse is in gray rubber capsule painted yellow under the A-frame near the Power Jack. This capsule easily separates but is still held together by a gray rubber loop. See photos below:
I have been looking at auto parts stores and Radio Shack with no success in finding this fuse. West Marine, a yachting store, has 30 MDL fuses but the package does not indicate that it is for 250v and the inner filament is different as noted in this picture as compared with Silvergate's picture. Does anyone know if the Ancor fuse will safely do the job?
Any 30 amp fuse that will fit the fuseholder will work. A fuse rated for 250 volts will work on 12 volts. Don't use a 12 volt fuse on 250 volts. The amps are the important number.
As usual I often end up answering my own question here, so here goes:
My Power Jack on my 2007 23’ Safari SE made in December 2006 is:
Super Jack, Model #12806, made by H&H Engineering Co.
Division of Barker Manufacturing Co.
730 E. Michigan Ave.
Battle Creek, Michigan 49016
1-888-367-6978
I called them today and they verified the fuse in question is indeed:
S30A 250V which is a Slowblow or Time-Delay Fuse
Their Parts Dept. will provide this fuse and I suspect it or a similar fuse can be bought elsewhere.
I mentioned to them that my dealer failed to insure that my Operating Instructions were included in my Delivery Case of manuals and Barker said they would be glad to send it to me.
They said that my Super Jack is currently their "pride and joy" and that Airstream is putting them onto their new trailers. It comes with a night-light and 3,500 lb. lifting capacity. It is Model #12806.
Those of you reporting multiple fuse failures might be wise to get what the maker recommends:
30-amp 250-volt Slowblow or Time-Delay Fuse for the exterior in-line fuse near Power Jack!
Just a quich heads-up on the Power Jacks. If it fails to operate, always check that little snap-together fuse holder. I have the same set-up on my '06 and the cheap little holder fails to make complete contact on ocassion, preventing power from reaching the jack. A little jiggling is required to get it operational again. Annoying!
I plan on replacing the fuse with a circuit breaker in the near future.
Those of you reporting multiple fuse failures might be wise to get what the maker recommends:
30-amp 250-volt Slowblow or Time-Delay Fuse for the exterior in-line fuse near Power Jack!
Doesn't matter what the jack manufacturer recommends, it depends on the wire that Airstream provided from the power source.
If it's a 12 ga. wire you should stay with the 20a fuse Airstream used.
Or run a larger wire.
Of course if you have a 20a fuse in the main fuse panel, the 30a fuse in the little holder is redundant and shouldn't be the one that blows.
Update: Super Jack Replacement Fuse: 30A – 32V Slowblow or MDL Time-Delay Fuse!
I just received my replacement fuses for the Super Jack from the manufacturer:
Barker Manufacturing Co., H&H Engineering Co. Div.
They turned out to be 30 Amp, 32 Volt Time-Delay Fuses… Littelfuse Co. calls them Slo-Blo… Buss calls them MDL
Key feature is the time-delay that avoids blowing the exterior fuse in the water-resistant capsule under the hitch especially when the Power Hitch is stressed, such as when lifting on uneven ground.
Markdoane…thanks for your input, but as I found out from the Atwood Water Heater Co… It always matters what the manufacturer recommends, advises or warns if you don’t want to void your component warranty…
And I was attempting to stay with the Power Jack fuse that "Airstream" used in my one-month old Safari – In the exterior yellow capsule under the hitch: the 30 Amp – 250 Volt Time-Delay fuse made my Jenn Feng… problem seems that this Taiwan fuse is not readily available to buy separately in this country.
Fenghuang…Yes, good for you! You’re closer to the correct answer than most others here!
You’re onto it… The Super Jack fuse for the exterior water-resistant yellow capsule under the A-frame by the Power Hitch should be a Sloblow or MDL Time-Delay Fuse…
And yes, West Marine has them as well as good auto parts stores such as NAPA!
At some point, I do plan on adding an in line switch to stop the potential of anyone using the power jack when the stab jacks are down. Don't know what it is about power jacks and the curious, but I've avoided a few folks playing around with it when the RV has been setup.
I like the circuit breaker idea....
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I added an inside switch for the power feed to both the power jack and the breakaway switch. It's when I was looking at the schematics that I found the power line was a 12 gauge wire, so it needed a 20 amp breaker or fuse.
I decided to go up one wire size to 10 gauge with a 30 amp breaker. If this is what Airstream has done for 2007, then 30 amps is the correct size fuse.
The earlier schematics show a 20 amp circuit breaker.
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and the inner filament is different as noted in this picture as compared with Silvergate's picture. Does anyone know if the Ancor fuse will safely do the job?
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