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03-12-2012, 12:26 PM
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#1
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4 Rivet Member
2006 19' Safari SE
Hayes
, Virginia
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 345
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power jack
My power jack was not working correctly and I removed it. I took it apart as far as I could and put a small amount of oil down the turning "shaft." The problem was the shaft was almost bound up completly. I wanted to take the section that the "shaft," is connected to, off and grease the inside. Meanwhile, the light button pulled inside and now I can't get the section apart or pull the light out through the small hole that the light fits in. I am going to have to remove the plate to retrieve the light on/off switch. Any suggestions?
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03-12-2012, 01:15 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Sioux Falls
, South Dakota
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,403
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My advise (unless you're disabled) you don't need an electric jack. Throw it in the trash and install a manual sidewinder. More RVers are stranded by electric jacks than anything else.
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03-12-2012, 01:35 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2005 19' Safari
GLENDALE
, AZ
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,453
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Which brand and model is your electric tongue jack?
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03-12-2012, 01:51 PM
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#4
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Moderator
Vintage Kin Owner
...
, ...
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,696
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mocus,
Do you have the manufacturer's manual for the jack you're referring to? I don't know the history of your jack, but that's where I'd start. A drawing can be real helpful when it comes to disassembly and understanding parts nomenclature.
The condition could be one of several. Two things that come to mind are corrosion, or impact damage. Some photos of what you are describing may help. If the tube, or screw is bent you might be able to straighten things out if you can get them apart. My success at straightening things of this type has been marginal at best, and I'd consider it to be a short term fix. If its corrosion then you may have success with a penetrating oil soak.
As for electric stab jacks. I wouldn't camp without one one if given a choice. Ours locked up a few years ago due to condensation in the motor that caused the lower armature bushing to seize to the shaft. It was a two beer project to disassemble the motor and free things up. Works like charm now. A preventative spray with WD-40 into the motor at the end of the camping season seems to be the key for us.
I don't know what your discretionary budget is but a quality electric stab jack can be purchased for a reasonable price.
__________________
"One of the best lessons I've learned is that you don't worry about criticism from people you wouldn't seek advice from."
William C. Swinney
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03-12-2012, 02:05 PM
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#5
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4 Rivet Member
2006 19' Safari SE
Hayes
, Virginia
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 345
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I have a H&H Super Power Jack MDL 12806. Like I said, I have her stripped down to where I can't strip it anymore. The shaft in the motor, sticking out with a pin that fits into the jack itself. Before I dismantled it, I tried it before removal and, I could hear the gears turning(?) but nothing moving. Laying on the bench, sprocket facing up, I can barley turn it. It may be bound up from sitting (it's 2006 that sat for most of its life). The light went inside and I did fish it out. I cannot get the panel off that fits into the underneath side of the head. I presume that will have to come off to see what is bound up. Tom
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03-12-2012, 02:23 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Spokane
, Washington
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,848
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Mocus,
I have the same jack on my 2006. PM me and I can send you a PDF of the exploded view along with all the parts numbers. It might help.
Dick
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03-12-2012, 06:17 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2005 19' Safari
GLENDALE
, AZ
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,453
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Link to PDF file for this jack:
http://www.barkermfg.com/superjackpg4.pdf
Can you operate the jack "manually"? If you can, the problem is in the powerhead.
Link to spec for Lubriplate lubricant:
http://www.lubriplate.com/pdf/pds/3_4%20GR-132.pdf
The above looks to be quite expensive. We have used U-joint/wheel bearing grease for similar applications as a "high-temperature" lubricant. Alternately, distributor cam grease also works well; but it usually costs quite a bit more. However, I am unsure if these are appropriate for your electric jack.
We keep rain and road grime out of our powerhead by covering it with an old boat fender that has one end cut off, held in place with a bungee cord. So far, that has worked well for protecting our Atwood power tongue jack.
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03-12-2012, 07:33 PM
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#8
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4 Rivet Member
2006 19' Safari SE
Hayes
, Virginia
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 345
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Will check everything out and see what happens. John gave me some ideas that I will put to work in the morning. Oh, by the way, I like your ingenuity.
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03-18-2012, 10:59 AM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
2008 27' Safari FB SE
Frederickburg
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitrock
My advise (unless you're disabled) you don't need an electric jack. Throw it in the trash and install a manual sidewinder. More RVers are stranded by electric jacks than anything else.
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I am going to replace my electric jack with a manual sidewinder. Any recommendations?? Particular brands and types??? I was stranded----AGAIN---- this weekend by my electric jack. I have been taking the head off the electric jack and manually raising and lowering it. I have to remove the propane tank cover to do this and was just wondering if I will have to do this with a manual one? Thanks in advice for any advice.
Kelly
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03-18-2012, 12:38 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Sioux Falls
, South Dakota
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,403
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Trailer jack URL
I used this one from this source.
"This A-Frame Jack has a Front-Facing Sidewind Crank with a High Quality Gear Train."
Bulldog A-Frame Trailer Jack HB-155010
Great company to order from. AAA+++
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03-18-2012, 01:20 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia
, Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
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Mocus: It is unclear to me if your problem is with the jack post or the electric head which drives the post. If it is the jack post, my experience is that they are a sealed one piece, not repairable thing. They use a ball/screw system usually and once they rust up, or the lube goes bad, it is toast. Essentially the same thing, lighter duty, was used on the old big satellite dish systems to move the dish. Lots of them would get water inside and that was the end of them.
If it is the power head, motor/gears/electrics, you may be able to repair them, but parts are expensive and often just not worth it. Like so many things today, the cost of repairs and parts is more than the value of the unit, so it becomes a throw away item.
Because of some disabilities, I must have a power jack. The very best ones I have ever found were made by Reese, but years ago, and they no longer sell them, or support any parts for them. Too bad, mine are about 30 years old and getting a little ratty now. I know I may regret it, but I am going to try a Harbor Freight power jack from China, only a little over $100 with the various discounts they have. I will post what I think of it later in the year.
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03-18-2012, 02:43 PM
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#12
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3 Rivet Member
2008 27' Safari FB SE
Frederickburg
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitrock
I used this one from this source.
"This A-Frame Jack has a Front-Facing Sidewind Crank with a High Quality Gear Train."
Bulldog A-Frame Trailer Jack HB-155010
Great company to order from. AAA+++
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PERFECT, just the info I needed. Thanks so much!!!!
Kelly
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03-19-2012, 10:16 AM
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#13
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4 Rivet Member
2006 19' Safari SE
Hayes
, Virginia
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 345
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Power Jack
I thank you all for your input. I have found the problem and talked to the manufacturer and they are sending me the part. It is a Powerhead made by H&H Engineering that came with the 2006 Bambi. The part #10051, Fiber Gear that has a smaller gear in the center, looking like 2 seperate gears (but they ain't). The replacement is $31.95 plus shipping. It should be here today. It will be an easy fix once I get it. Thanks again everyone, I read them all. Tom
AS an after thought......Who ever said the powerhead was easy to put back together.........Pryor to finding out the problem, I tried putting the head back together..Getting the wires, switches, and fingers out of the way, I felt like a plastic man (If your old enough to remember that guy). I am not looking forware to another try once I get the part, but I will hold my breath, stand on my head, and pray, and maybe, just maybe, it will go on easier. Wish me luck, group..........
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03-19-2012, 06:02 PM
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#14
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4 Rivet Member
2006 19' Safari SE
Hayes
, Virginia
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 345
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power jack
Received my gear for the power head today, installed, and back on the shaft working great. Thanks to you all "we did'it." I may put the trailer up and go into the business of Airstream repair. I sure didn't expect this much going wrong before I have a chance to mess it up myself. I hope....and pray.....We will do some camping real soon. The WX in southeastern Virginia has been great and they are not predicting any cold WX in the near future. Now watch this....I will de-winterize the little girl and we'll get a blast from the Artic. I guess you might say, I am looking for the other shoe to drop....Ah, to heck with it, I'm going camping in my Bambi...Tom
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03-24-2012, 08:28 PM
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#15
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3 Rivet Member
2008 27' Safari FB SE
Frederickburg
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitrock
I used this one from this source.
"This A-Frame Jack has a Front-Facing Sidewind Crank with a High Quality Gear Train."
Bulldog A-Frame Trailer Jack HB-155010
Great company to order from. AAA+++
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Received the A-Frame Jack you recommended yesterday and installed it today. Works great!!!! Thanks for the great info! I won't be stranded by my electric jack anymore and I was amazed at how easy it is to raise my AS.
Thanks again,
Kelly
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03-24-2012, 08:44 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
2019 22' Sport
High River
, Alberta
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kds
Received the A-Frame Jack you recommended yesterday and installed it today. Works great!!!! Thanks for the great info! I won't be stranded by my electric jack anymore and I was amazed at how easy it is to raise my AS.
Thanks again,
Kelly
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I installed an Atwood A-frame jack after my electric jack failed. Maybe not as strong as the Bulldog unit, but I'm very happy with it. I do not miss the electric jack. It does not take much strength to crank the handle.
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03-24-2012, 08:54 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Sioux Falls
, South Dakota
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kds
Received the A-Frame Jack you recommended yesterday and installed it today. Works great!!!! Thanks for the great info! I won't be stranded by my electric jack anymore and I was amazed at how easy it is to raise my AS.
Thanks again,
Kelly
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Glad it worked. Happy spring!
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04-01-2012, 04:15 PM
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#18
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2 Rivet Member
Evergreen
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 68
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Having troubles with our power jack as well. Lift Rite 3000 model. For the past year it would work intermittently - I could often get it going though by getting in moving in one direction, then quickly going in the other direction with the switch. The unit wouldnt come on at all sometimes when I threw the switch. Finally it just stopped coming on completely.
I pulled it apart, tested everything with a voltmeter - but without a wiring diagram I'm not 100% sure Im testing it correctly. Long story short - I think it's a bad switch. Anyone know of a way to figure out if it's the switch? I seem to be getting power to the switch, and power to the limit switches when thrown.
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