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Cispook · 12-28-2018, 02:04 PM

Light works. No power movement. Leave light on and push power switch and blows fuse. Checked all wires. Battery back is good. Sprayed electric cleaner. No change. Any help appreciated.

NoResults · 12-28-2018, 02:17 PM

Sounds like it is jammed up. Try to use the crank that came with it to move it a little either way and see if that frees it up. Also plug and unplug all connections.

Good Luck.

Dave

Cispook · 12-28-2018, 04:07 PM

I tried that. No luck.

KK4YZ · 12-28-2018, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cispook

I tried that. No luck.

If this is the Atwood (or whatever they’re called these days) it has a clutch that you should hear if the gears are refusing to move. I assume from the answer above that you tried moving it with the manual crank and it wouldn’t budge?
Did you hear the clutch make a ratcheting sound like an electric screwdriver?
If not, I think you possibly have a shorted connection to the motor or the motor itself is shorted.

I’m not a fan of these jacks that AS supplies. Mine failed on the 3rd trip out. Atwood sent me a new one. If the 2nd Atwood fails there are better options out there. Husky I think is one.

ROBERT CROSS · 12-28-2018, 05:55 PM

Check here for a short...had to wrap and loom ours...👍

Bob
🇺🇸

Cispook · 12-28-2018, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KK4YZ

If this is the Atwood (or whatever they’re called these days) it has a clutch that you should hear if the gears are refusing to move. I assume from the answer above that you tried moving it with the manual crank and it wouldn’t budge?

Did you hear the clutch make a ratcheting sound like an electric screwdriver?

If not, I think you possibly have a shorted connection to the motor or the motor itself is shorted.

I’m not a fan of these jacks that AS supplies. Mine failed on the 3rd trip out. Atwood sent me a new one. If the 2nd Atwood fails there are better options out there. Husky I think is one.

It moves

Cispook · 12-28-2018, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Check here for a short...had to wrap and loom ours...[emoji106]

Bob

[emoji631]

I’ll check that ... I’m leaning towards bad switch

Wayne&Sam · 12-29-2018, 04:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cispook

I’ll check that ... I’m leaning towards bad switch

Since the light works, that's a good bet.

KK4YZ · 12-29-2018, 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam

Since the light works, that's a good bet.

There’s a short in the circuit somewhere, switch, wiring, motor?

Wayne&Sam · 12-29-2018, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KK4YZ

There’s a short in the circuit somewhere, switch, wiring, motor?

I guess what I meant to say was that the power going in is OK since the light works. The switches are notorious for failing.

SteveSueMac · 12-29-2018, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam

I guess what I meant to say was that the power going in is OK since the light works. The switches are notorious for failing.

I think my switches failed. Toward the end of last season, I had intermittent failures and successes raising and lowering the jack. The light hasn’t worked for years. I bought new switches for both. Is it just a simple deinstall the old/reinstall the new - or is there any specific procedure I need to follow? Also assuming it’s just solder to connect, yes?

rmkrum · 12-29-2018, 09:23 AM

Usually it’s push on connectors, blade type on the switch, female on the wiring. Get good pictures before you take it apart, make a sketch, and label the wires carefully before you proceed. Then be sure you have disconnected power from the Jack by pulling the fuse or disconnecting the battery negative wire first.

SteveSueMac · 12-29-2018, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Usually it’s push on connectors, blade type on the switch, female on the wiring. Get good pictures before you take it apart, make a sketch, and label the wires carefully before you proceed. Then be sure you have disconnected power from the Jack by pulling the fuse or disconnecting the battery negative wire first.

Thanks. Yes, the switches I bought (different part numbers based on the owner’s manual) are blades and the batteries are out now for the winter so I was planning on replacing them before my first trip in the spring (before installing the batts). So the blades don’t pop in to a socket then I assume if I need to track the wires carefully.

Thanks for the help!

Cispook · 12-29-2018, 02:34 PM

Anyone know where I can download the manual for the Atwood 3000

SteveSueMac · 12-29-2018, 03:29 PM

Is this it? https://assets.rigidhitch.com/hitch_...powerjacks.pdf

I googled Atwood 3000 power jack user manual and got that link

Wayne&Sam · 12-29-2018, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

I think my switches failed. Toward the end of last season, I had intermittent failures and successes raising and lowering the jack.

Same here this season. I had to crank it a couple of times, then later it worked. I plan on ordering the switch and replacing it before next season. I'm just too busy skiing right now.....

Wayne&Sam · 12-29-2018, 03:36 PM

BTW, My jack is a Barker.

Cispook · 12-29-2018, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Is this it? https://assets.rigidhitch.com/hitch_...powerjacks.pdf

I googled Atwood 3000 power jack user manual and got that link

Thanks. Much appreciated.

rmkrum · 12-29-2018, 05:38 PM

Yes, the wires have individual connectors, so a good picture and diagram is essential to success.

The switch contacts are small, and quickly switching direction on the jack tends to arc the contacts and make them go bad. It’s best to wait a second or two for the motor to stop if changing directions. Makes the switch last a bit longer.

I plan to rip out the switch and substitute a set of sturdy relays controlled by a switch. The relays have much better contacts and higher current rating. Best part is they plug into a socket. If I get real silly I’ll add a wireless remote control to the mix. Yep, still the Overkill Engineering department around here.

Cispook · 12-29-2018, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Yes, the wires have individual connectors, so a good picture and diagram is essential to success.

The switch contacts are small, and quickly switching direction on the jack tends to arc the contacts and make them go bad. It’s best to wait a second or two for the motor to stop if changing directions. Makes the switch last a bit longer.

I plan to rip out the switch and substitute a set of sturdy relays controlled by a switch. The relays have much better contacts and higher current rating. Best part is they plug into a socket. If I get real silly I’ll add a wireless remote control to the mix. Yep, still the Overkill Engineering department around here.

🤣[emoji23]