Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-06-2011, 02:24 PM   #15
Rivet Master
 
Aviator's Avatar

 
1997 34' Limited
1970 27' Overlander
South of Atlanta , Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,655
Images: 2
Here is a link to the ones I have. We bought the at Camping World. I have two sets and have always had more than enough.

Worldwide Merchandise Company - RV Leveling Blocks, 8 pack - Chocks & Levelers - Camping World
__________________

__________________
Craig and Carol
1997 34' Excella 1000
1970 27' Overlander, International
2009 Ford F150 5.4L
ProPride hitch with 1400# bars

AIR 41028
TAC GA-8
WBCCI 10199
Past President Southeastern Camping Unit (12)
Aviator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2011, 03:34 PM   #16
RLS
Rivet Master
 
RLS's Avatar

 
2004 25' Classic
Prescott , Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 608
The also have the 2 sets in orange (red). If I was buying them today, I would get the yellow ones for anything going on the ground. Much easier to see and not forget. JMHO
__________________

__________________
Julia & Bob
W/ Deedee & Boo
AIR #30685
RLS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2011, 03:53 PM   #17
2 Rivet Member
 
jrudd1968's Avatar
 
2005 31' Classic
2005 31' Classic
Douglass , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 91
Images: 12
I use the blocks and level just like Richard. It's simple and quick! Thought of using the bottle jacks myself but figured it would be harder, more time consuming, more cost, and more weight to carry around.
__________________
James Rudd
2001 25' Safari
2003 Dodge 2500
jrudd1968 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2011, 04:09 PM   #18
Rivet Master
 
KYAirstream's Avatar
 
1979 31' Sovereign
Northeastern , Kentucky
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 622
I'll have to give those blocks a try. I guess another nice feature is that the chocks snap right into the blocks. Thanks for the links to the blocks, as well as to the level gauge.
__________________
KYAirstream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2011, 07:01 PM   #19
Rivet Master
 
KYAirstream's Avatar
 
1979 31' Sovereign
Northeastern , Kentucky
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 622
This is probably a dumb question, but...

When using those plastic blocks to make a ramp to level the Airstream, there doesn't seem to be much room between the tires on a tandem trailer to back the front wheel onto the ramp. So do you all just level only one of the tires? Is that OK in terms of weight on the axle?
__________________
KYAirstream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2011, 07:33 PM   #20
RLS
Rivet Master
 
RLS's Avatar

 
2004 25' Classic
Prescott , Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 608
I always level both tires. Sometimes you will have to have help to add some while going up them. You can do a height of 2 without any help. Just put down 2 and then the one in the middle in back or front of each tire. If not enough, then have someone add as you are going up. You can do it yourself, but it is a real pain.
__________________
Julia & Bob
W/ Deedee & Boo
AIR #30685
RLS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2011, 08:11 PM   #21
Halimer
 
2006 25' Classic
New Hyde Park , New York
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 244
I have found that the plastic levelers sink into the ground. They act like a cookie cutter and they are narrow. I use 2"x10"s cut to 12" inches wide. They don't cookie cutter, if I forget one block no big replacement cost, easily replaceable. One of the members of my club clued me into them.

Mark
__________________
halimer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2011, 08:38 PM   #22
RLS
Rivet Master
 
RLS's Avatar

 
2004 25' Classic
Prescott , Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 608
Mark, I know what you are saying, just never have been to a park yet that does not have solid ground for the plastic ones. It would have to be some soft ground for them to sink in. JMHO
__________________
Julia & Bob
W/ Deedee & Boo
AIR #30685
RLS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2011, 10:15 PM   #23
3 Rivet Member
 
Pat Conway's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 128
--prefer a combination of 3/4 in thick boards and about 10 (2X4 ) 12" wide sections in addition to the plastic blocks. If one side needs extra height you can lay down the 2X4 sections and put the plastic blocks on top of that. What I often have to settle for in camping sites are those that slope down in the back. If I don't want to unhook, but want to be level in this situation, I can run both sides up on higher material this way. I am using the Reese equalizer hitch and sometimes releasing the spring bars won't drop the front of the trailer enough to be level. There are only two choices in this situation-unhook or raise up the back of the trailer. Also often times on cement or hard gravel I find that the plastic blocks are too thick and the 3/4 in boards bring it level.

The plastic blocks also come in handy work for height and base on the stabilizer jacks if the ground is hard enough.

I have had to park on many soft spots (wet grass that sinks into the mud and sandy spots). The plastic blocks aren't that good in these cases. A good long, thick board for under the wheels and also under the stabilizer jacks is a comfort to have along in these situations.

I realize wood is heavier, but I find myself wanting to take it anyway.

IMHO, Pat
__________________
Pat Conway is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2011, 10:39 PM   #24
Site Team
 
azflycaster's Avatar
 
1975 25' Tradewind
Dewey , Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 12,127
Images: 62
Blog Entries: 1
We have much harder dirt out west, so the sinking is not a problem. Two bags (20 blocks) is enough to build a 4" ramp for both wheels.
__________________

Richard

Wally Byam Airstream Club 7513
azflycaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2011, 10:46 PM   #25
Moderator dude
 
Action's Avatar

 
1966 26' Overlander
Phoenix , Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,069
Images: 13
Any hydrallic jack was built for temporary use with no person to be in the vehicle.

I would never recommend a hydrallic jack for use in storage of a unit. And I am sure there is zero recommendations from jack manufactures to use bottle jack for storage of a unit.

And that combo jack - nice idea and buying a set of stands and a jack seperately will be less money out of pocket. IMO.

>>>>>>Action
__________________
1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - Streamless.
1966 Lincoln 4 door Convertible 462 4V 1971 Ford LTD Convertible 429 4V Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
Action is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2011, 01:46 PM   #26
3 Rivet Member
 
Bird's Nest's Avatar
 
2007 19' Bambi
2005 18' Westphalia
Evans , GA
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 218
Quote:
Originally Posted by KYAirstream View Post
Any recommendations for those plastic yellow blocks? Also, my trailer doesn't currently have the level mounted on the front. Any links to a pic?
You can use a torpedo level on your kitchen counter.
Parallel to the axle to level side to side.
Front to back while leveling with the jack.
The level bubble points to the high side.
I kept mine in the silverware drawer in our CCD.

This works great when camping with another. Requires a lot of running in and out if you are alone.
Bird's Nest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2012, 07:05 AM   #27
New Member
 
1993 29' Excella
Wasaga Beach , Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 3
With regard to the yellow or orange blocks, do you have a 'rule of thumb' as to how many are required to get level 'per bubble width' of off level indication? One chap I spoke with suggested he had to use 1 2x8 per bubble width and also carried some half thickness blocks to fine tune the bubble. Any thoughts or comments on that? By the way, I was fighting the blocks and leaning towards the boards but weight and storage is a factor so guess I'll be getting some lego....... by the way, how do you handle multiple vertical blocks while backing the trailer up - do they move or do you have one board on the bottom so as to fit the blocks only behind each wheel then back it up onto them?
__________________
Airbusdave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2012, 07:42 AM   #28
Rivet Master
 
Lumatic's Avatar

 
1971 25' Tradewind
1993 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Estancia , New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,642
Images: 16
Blog Entries: 1
A few thoughts
1. Never thought of using a jack for leveling. But they tend to settle over a period of time. I would not use a jack for leveling to the point you are lifting the wheels off the ground.

2. Once in a while only one leveling block under one wheel is necessary for leveling.

3. If you are using a level inside the trailer. The best place is inside the fridge, not on a counter. I leveled my trailer this way and then glued on a bubble level on my power jack. I use this with a side to side level mounted on the front of the trailer. I can see the side to side level from the TV.
__________________

__________________
Sail on silver girl. Sail on by. Your time has come to shine.
Lumatic is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Just got a 1966 ALANSD 1966 Overlander 365 07-29-2016 04:05 PM
Cable jack options for exterior skin NicheVintage Audio, Video & TV 8 01-30-2011 07:20 PM
Can't unhitch! Need help. LawChick Hitches, Couplers & Balls 43 01-11-2011 03:10 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:34 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.