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Old 09-26-2011, 10:04 AM   #15
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New Market , Virginia
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Wow, all of you are so incredibly helpful. Thank you.

Didn't get a manual re the hitch but the dealer just sent one via email. And they are going to overnight "slow blow" fuses which should be here by tomorrow. Have to leave to go to work (130 miles away) and won't be back until Thursday morning.
The trailer, et al is down the road and will check the brand of the hitch again when I pass by today. Am sorry if I messed up the name. Was trying to memorize it while unpacking last night and might have messed it up.
Battery is fully charged. The fuses blow not on insertion of the fuse, but when you try to raise or lower the hitch via the switch on the top.

Anyway, a huge thanks and will report back on Thursday when I have the new fuses and look at this welcome assortment of solutions. The last thing I want to do is drive five hours back to the dealer.

Martha Stewart (not that one!)
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Old 09-26-2011, 10:12 AM   #16
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Martha,

On your 22' Sport, the power jack was a dealer install option?

Bob
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Old 09-26-2011, 10:42 AM   #17
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Check to make sure the wiring to the battery is correct - positive to positive and negative to negative. We added a power jack to our last trailer and the dealer who installed it (Richardson's in Sun City, CA) put the wires on backwards, so the battery wasn't charging and the up went down/down went up...
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Old 09-26-2011, 11:34 AM   #18
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If yours is like mine, there are integral up and down limit switches that need to be synchronized if you remove the head and manually turn the leadscrew. The procedure is straightforward and is documented in the owner's manual.

There are a number of power tongue jacks available. If you could attach a snapshot of the head, we could all be sure to be on the same page. Most come with a separate manual crank, it would be nice if they all agreed to use the same wrench we use for our stabilizers but sometime I expect too much. :-) A simple access point is a nice feature missing on some models. I count myself very fortunate in 25 years not to have had to use the hand crank.

If you do remove the head, I would be curious to know if the head runs without blowing the fuse. If it does blow, that would indicate a possible short or a motor problem. If not, then manually turning the leadscrew might reveal a bind in the mechanism. Many of us who live far from a dealer or competent repair shop depend on knowledgeable friends and neighbors and in the process we learn new skills.
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Old 09-26-2011, 12:03 PM   #19
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Three Fingers: you are right, it is a Heavy Duty Levelrite High Power 3000. Again, sorry for not having it right the first time.
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Old 09-26-2011, 12:04 PM   #20
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Yes, it was installed by the dealer.
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Old 09-26-2011, 12:09 PM   #21
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Yankee Doodle, will be glad to send a picture on thursday, if the issue is not resolved. Not sure I know how to load pictures on here but will try to figure out.

But, here's an even more ridiculous question: when you refer to the "head" is that the part of the hitch where the level is, or? Still haven't opened the manual that was sent this morning.
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Old 09-26-2011, 12:39 PM   #22
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Andy and Robert,
Thanks for the instruction. So, I go out look at that jack head. The wires go down behind the "hook up" light, and seem very tight. The hook up light appears to be attached with two large hose clamps. Is this normal?

Do you have to disassemble the wiring at the connection (now all taped up) inside the propane tank shield.
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Old 09-26-2011, 01:20 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gheuer View Post
Andy and Robert,
Thanks for the instruction. So, I go out look at that jack head. The wires go down behind the "hook up" light, and seem very tight. The hook up light appears to be attached with two large hose clamps. Is this normal?

Do you have to disassemble the wiring at the connection (now all taped up) inside the propane tank shield.
Greg,

This what our Classic jack post looks like, the wire runs down the back side inside the plastic wire loom that is open on one side so you can slide the wires out. No clamps holding the wiring. (the clamp in the photo holds the flag pole mount)

The short/open is usually right where the wires go under the LPG cover. If you have a short(blown fuse) the bare wire is easily seen. If you have an open circuit you will have to unwrap the tape.

Bob
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Old 09-26-2011, 02:19 PM   #24
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"But, here's an even more ridiculous question: when you refer to the "head" is that the part of the hitch where the level is, or?" Yes that is the head, the task of getting the trailers off the tow vehicle without having the jack power working was one of your first issues. The level you saw on the top of the head will turn counter clock wise and lift off the head. In the hole where the level was is the end of the shaft, which is where you put your hand crank to raise or lower the trailer, it might work better if you remove the propane cover to give you more room. This way you can get your tow vehicle free of the trailer, and deal with the power issue later.
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Old 09-26-2011, 02:44 PM   #25
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OK, Bob, good picture. I took some of mine but can't get them uploaded just now. I'll attach them soon, just so you can see what I'm up against. A bit more complex than yours.
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Old 09-27-2011, 02:33 PM   #26
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First, thank you all for the support. Incredible. Hopefully this information and what's coming will round out and end this dilemma.

Received "low blow" fuses today from dealer and the same result: immediate blow of fuses when one tries to raise or lower the hitch. Had local mechanic look this afternoon and there is a "dead short in the electric motor". Dealer is going to send a new hitch. Hopefully this will resolve the issue.

Thank you again. Difficult to put in words how helpful all have been.

Martha
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:28 PM   #27
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We live 3 hours from our local Airstream dealer. We have two other RV dealers close by that are more than willing to look at anything under warranty that is not "Airstream"...hitch, frig, stove. We have used them several times for things...most recently our jack...we pulled into the dealer for some other work and low and behold our jack wouldn't work....it was melted on the inside...a couple months after warranty expired. Glad we didn't travel the three hours to find out it wasn't under warranty! Anyway...try a local dealer....we have found our local dealer much much cheaper on brake service. We now have a great relationship with the local dealer.
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:56 PM   #28
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I carry a 6t bottle jack for any roadside lifting issues such as flats etc. Along with a couple of blocks I can easily lift my trailer off the hitch if needed. Sometimes if I let the batteries go too low it won't lift when I plug it into the truck so I just get the jack and lift it on / off the hitch. After awhile on the TV to charge things up it works again. But the point is you should have a good jack along for the ride to use if needed.
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