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Old 05-11-2011, 05:57 PM   #15
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I didn't realize that, isn't the white wire used in teh seven pic connector a ground wire?

Brian.

That guage wire is for the ground to the electrical systems but is not sufficiant in current draw capacity to power the motor on the jack. Mine will not even make the motor humm when there is not a good ground connection between the TV and trailer when I have had to use the TV for ower (low charge in AS battery).
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Old 05-11-2011, 06:03 PM   #16
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That guage wire is for the ground to the electrical systems but is not sufficiant in current draw capacity to power the motor on the jack. Mine will not even make the motor humm when there is not a good ground connection between the TV and trailer when I have had to use the TV for ower (low charge in AS battery).
Well, live and learn! I didn't realize that!

I did find out recently that you cannot blindly believe what a multimeter tells you! My jack wouldn't work and yet the feed wire with a multimeter showed
12 volts.

Turned out that I had a bad connector in the feed line. It would pass enough current (negligeable) to give a reading on the voltmeter,but not enough t power the jack.

Brian.

Thanks ........ Brian.
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:07 PM   #17
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When you get the head apart, you'll see some grease around the plastic gears—the gears look weak, but are pretty strong. Make sure the grease is on the gears—over time it flies off, but to work well the gears need grease on them.

Make sure you have extra fuses too. I have only been able to find them in an RV store since they are high amperage and not used for electronics. The in-line fuse is located under the tongue.

For some reason the gears may have come loose and that's why you can hear whirring but nothing happens. If you are lucky you will be able to get them together, but something may be stripped (maybe no grease) and then you are not lucky. You should still be able to crank the jack up manually with some sort of tool—you may have to jack up the tongue to take weight off the electric jack and maybe it will crank easier.

I too have raised the end of the truck up in the air, then I blew a fuse. 3,500 lbs isn't much when you count in the back of the truck and the front of the trailer. It puts a lot of stress on the hitch receiver and the trailer tongue. It is best to use the lever supplied with the Equalizer to lever the bars on and off, or whatever other hitches have if that is necessary.

My jack works when not attached to the truck. If it didn't, I would look for a bad ground for the jack on the trailer.

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Old 05-11-2011, 10:46 PM   #18
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While we are talking about electric jacks . . . does the electric jack run only off the AS batteries, or if the 7 pin is connected to TV will it run off TV power? Just wondered what happens if AS batteries were to go dead in storage for whatever reason.
If the Coach batteries are low. It can blow the fuse in the Tow Vehicle.
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:48 PM   #19
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We went through 2 Barker units, both replaced under warranty. The motor would run, but nothing happened. The fix was to replace the motor "head" and re-synch. Dealer didn't know how to re-synch so I showed them how . I was using the jack too harshly and jacking up the back of the truck when attached to the trailer to make the equalizer hitch easy to hook up (purchasing dealer taught me this dumb trick!). Now know how to do it without putting stress on jack.
Guess its true that they don't build things like they used too. I have an old original Super Jack and always use it to take the tension off the torsion bars when hooking up. The only problem I have ever had was with a limit switch once. I think the Jack is going on about 27 years now. I probably use it between 40 and 60 times a year. Guess when it goes out may have to find a place to rewind the motor. Think there is a place in Tampa that can do small D/C motors.
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:59 PM   #20
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Sounds like it may have broke a tooth of the micarta fiber gear inside. If they are still building them like the older ones. I had that happen on a '79 Excella. Its usually a gear that is about 2 to 2-1/2" in diameter.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:14 AM   #21
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Jacking up the truck too

Hmmm. Can someone shed some light on how to connect AS and TV without using jack to lift truck and trailer? This is the method that seems to be floated by the WD hitch folks. Is there a better way? If so I'd like to find out before i crater my electric jack doing this.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:45 AM   #22
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Dana,

If you don't want to use the power jack, or it won't work, you could use other jacks, but it seems like an emergency procedure. A lot of trucks come with bottle jacks (safer than a bumper jack). You might have to stack up scrap wood under the jack, make sure it is steady and then start jacking up the tongue somewhere close to the power jack. You might need one on each side so the trailer goes up straight. Or, use a floor jack. With a floor jack, you can put 2x on top spanning the two sides of the tongue avoiding wires and propane line. Either way is tricky and has to be done carefully. I don't think that's what you are asking.

Using the power jack to lift the truck and trailer makes it easier to install and remove Equalizer bars, especially on uneven surfaces. One bar (often driver's or curb side) usually goes on easily, but the other often requires lifting the jack much higher. At some point, you'll lift the truck off its suspension—that's too far. A flat surface is best for doing this as you don't have to left the jack so high, but we don't always get that, especially at my house. The company supplies a lever to help with this so you don't have to jack up the trailer so high, but the lever can be difficult for some people to use. My wife has trouble with it and sometimes I do. You can add a pipe to the end of the lever to make it easier. But, the easiest thing is to use the jack, put excessive strain on the hitch receiver and possibly blow a fuse.

I don't know how other WD hitches work. I think Reese sells a system similar to the Equalizer as well as other systems, but I don't know how they work.

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Old 05-12-2011, 11:54 AM   #23
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Thanks Gene....

I guess I will just carry on as the PO showed me and stock up on fuses . . I assume this fuse you blow is in the AS for the electric jack, not in the TV.

Dana
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Old 05-12-2011, 12:02 PM   #24
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Dana, yes. The in-line jack fuse on ours is located under the tongue.

Gene
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:23 AM   #25
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The dealer showed me the IMPROVED way to hook up the AS to the ball with a WD hitch. First, back over the ball and line up as if you were going to drop onto ball. Leave about 4 inches of space above the ball and THEN hook up the WD bars. Very easy to do at this time as there is no tension on the bars. THEN drop the AS onto the ball. The weight of the tongue will put the tension on the bars. Hook up as normal.

It works pretty slick and there is no stress put on the jack other than raising the height of the tongue. Not lifting any weight of the truck. Us us a Eas A Lift so other manufacturers might be different.
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:37 AM   #26
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I'll have to try that. I never would have thought of it myself. Thanks.

I assume when you say " First, back over the ball" you mean back the ball under the ball receiver/coupler on the tongue.

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Old 05-13-2011, 11:56 AM   #27
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I'm going to try it this afternoon

Going to pick up Thumper after work, I will try this and report back... sounds like it would be a great way to do it.
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Old 05-13-2011, 12:11 PM   #28
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Andy, if you are looking at forums today, want to weigh in on the relative merits of this method? Please?
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