Manual Tongue Jack Failure

[A-Merry-Can]

so, i still am uncertain... do i need to have a battery in my trailer to run teh jack, or will it draw enough current through the charge line?

jp

[Sugarfoot]

My understanding is that it can be powered by either the TV or the trailer battery. Problem is, I have times when leveling where I may not have the TV in close proximity. I don't want to depend solely on the 7-pin for power. I'm not certain if the TV power to the jack comes from the charge line or a separate wire, but I believe it is incorporated into the 7-pin wiring. Now, if I'm wrong, someone feel free to correct me. I want to understand this too.

[ticki2]

Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can

so, i still am uncertain... do i need to have a battery in my trailer to run teh jack, or will it draw enough current through the charge line?

jp

If you are plugged into shore power the jack should work , with/without battery .
If your plugged into TV your jack should work , with/without battery.
If you are not plugged in to anything , and the trailer has no battery , nothing will work , including the jack .

[Sugarfoot]

Finally got my TW back this Thursday. Evidentaly it failed due to age and possibly rust. Truck & Trailer didn't take the jack apart, but they felt the worm gear mechanism became so worn on the teeth over time that they lost the ability to mesh properly and stripped out. Said this is the most common cause of failure in old jacks. It was 46 years old jack, it was going to fail sooner rather than later. They didn't know of any way to prevent this, its just one of those things to be aware of if you have an original manual jack. So all of you vintage owners beware. This could happen to you.
Looking at the old jack itself I believe rust was a big contributor to wearing away the gears. Just looking under the old jack mount tells some of the story. I have also found the A-frame has qite a bit of rust just behind the coupler. T&T felt it bears watching but will hold for now.

I'm not fond of the look of the new electric jack, just doesn't blend well on the tongue. But overall I'm pleased. Hitching time has been cut in half, it is really fast, faster than cranking. My aching shoulder is very happy.

The side bar to the jack issue is worrisome. Coming out of T&T there is a steep grade and a dip before moving onto the highway. The TW bottomed out when leaving and now I'm sans blackwater outlet plumbing. Not to mention some belly pan damage. Dump valve is still intact. Really sucks. The sewer outlet hung seriously low when I purchased it, was on my list to correct. Pictures tell all, so it will be in the RV shop this week for repairs.
Before:
And After:

[Sugarfoot]

BTW, when the old jack was cut off the tongue some patent numbers were made visible. They must have been under the original jack mount. Anyone know if these are significant or of interest? I had not noticed these before.

[scottanlily]

Sugarfoot ,it appears that you had an adapter to the old tailpiece (broken )
and it just curved to the side .mine is the same ,but has the rubber adapter
off the tailpiece straight and short with a common fitting thetford .your tailpiece is now junk ,the 2 small pipes going into it are your sinks and shower drains .Up inside that tailpiece in your photo is the slide valve for the dump
tank. a shaft runs thru the side of the trailer and you have a wheel shaped
faucet handle to open and close the brass gate valve .An example of what they originally looked like can be found at Home Depot or any plumbing shop
that sells big brass gate valves .your may have leaked which they do at this age and so the PO installed the setup that got broke off.If the Rv guys can remove the rest of the broken piece ,they may be able to build you a new setup ,appears your black tank is ok from the photo.if you go back to my tradwnd photo (new member 60 trdwnd) you can see mine and how short it is
no elbow invoved and no dump valve on the end .you can get a sawsall up
there and carefully cut outward enough to cut away the thread on tailpiece
thats left there ,you will have the old black gate valve still attached .I
actually made a new tailpiece from brass pipe and copper 1 " tubing for the drains ,mimicking the old design.I have safari tims old valve with the tailpiece that may be removable and refurbished maybe ,but I suspect that your Rv
guys can come up with somthing .remember that what you have is old non
standard stuff ,they may be able to come up with another adaptable setup
that can sit higher up in the belly pan there .Anyway ,good luck ,thanks for the photos .post the repaired version too when its done !

Scott

[Sugarfoot]

Here's my new blackwater fittings after a confusing and lengthy repair. The RV shop couldn't find a way to wrap their minds around the original plumbing and come up with anything similar that would work. So they removed everything up to the tank and started over. I only wish I knew what it looks like above the bellypan now. Getting the graywater lines to tie into the picture was their biggest problem, so they rerouted them to some exent to exit the belly a few inches streetside of the black. I'm not totally happy with the elaborate plumbing below my bellypan, but it doesn't leak and I'll deal with it. Unfortunately, it has only about 1/2" more clearance than the old setup so I'm still at risk of losing it again. The only reassuring thing about this experience is that my frame, at least around the blacktank, is still in good shape. At least that's what the RV shop tells me.

[A-Merry-Can]

looks pretty solid to me! have you replaced your axle yet? i don't know if it's on your plans or not, but i have a new axle for my 59 (still yet to install it). i deleted the drop the original airstream axle had, so the trailer should ride a few inches higher. that might help? also, i know biased ply tires ride higher than radials. my tradewind has radials, and i actually lost a good inch of clearance when i switched to them.

jp

[Sugarfoot]

OK . . . . solid is a good word. The term, 'junk in the trunk' comes to mind as well. And if you catch it at the right angle, it resembles a big black Anaconda poised and ready to strike.

I wasn't planning on replacing the axle, but was considering going to the local spring shop and having the leaves re-arched or replaced and maybe one added for more clearance. I have bias now, C class 6 ply rated to 1850 lbs, you know the wide whitewalls. I want to go to a D rated 8 ply since the whitewalls only allow for about 600 lbs over dry weight. I hate to lose the whitewalls, but I'm pushing the limits.

I've also heard that raising the trailer higher makes for lots of bounce on the road, but I've got to get more clearance. I'll think on the axle option.

[scottanlily]

A straight non drop axle will raise up the trailer alot !! .most look funny that high up and have a higher center of gravity ,but that would get it up high .
youd need a step to the step for mom though .see if the measurements i provided can get you up enough .radials will lower you down and the ride
will not have the same stability as the bias ply will .that said ,others have
gone the radial way ,but you know Im a bias believer .there is a reason the design of these trailers is with the four inch drop ,lower center of gravity and better handling ,like anything on the road .Even torsions have the arm angle
conservative to keep the height lower as well ,unless of course owners want
a higher rating and more arm down angle .some need more clearance for
rough dirt roads ,although Im not too much in favor of 4 wheeling an airstream trailer .


Scott

[A-Merry-Can]

what i did with the axle, was order a straight axle, with a larger tube. it comes to raising the trailer an inch, i think. i haven't installed it yet. probably in teh next few weeks, after the door and interior go in. i'll keep ya posted!

i'm definitely doing the whitewall tires, though. i love em!

jp