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Old 10-29-2006, 04:15 PM   #15
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Most of the power jacks that I've seen also come with a manual crank handle if the motor or power should fail .
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Old 10-29-2006, 04:16 PM   #16
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we've been talking about swapping out teh jack on our trade wind as well. the jack looks pretty loose on the top, and i don't want a similar fate to happen to OUR wind! a couple of questions...

do i HAVE to have a battery to run teh jack? can it not run off the blue charge line from the tow vehicle?

when it's plugged in, the blue line carries a current from the transformer in the rear. would that be enough to run the jack?

i could put a battery back in it, i guess... just need to figure out if this is going to be a couple hour deal... or an all-dayer?



jp
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Old 10-29-2006, 04:18 PM   #17
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Manual Tongue Jack Failure

Greetings Sugarfoot!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugarfoot
. . . . Mine may not be so easy to replace. Instead of rivets like some of the vintages, I'm bolted and have the flange around the post welded to the tongue. The existing jack may have to be cut off somehow. I've read how someone on the forum knocked the setup from below with a hammer and displaced the weld, but my weld job looks pretty solid.
I suspect that you may discover something similar to what happened when Fogdall's replaced the original manual jack on my '64 Overlander. The original manual jack had a much smaller diameter post than the new electric models so both the top plate and bottom plate posed problems. I know that they cut off the bottom plate and welded in new material to mate with the new power jack, and if my memory serves correct, they also welded in a new top monting plate as well to insure that all was true and in safe operating condition. Unlike the original manual jack, the new power jack is bolted in so that it can be easily removed for service.

I am sure that you will be thrilled with the power jack!

Kevin
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Old 10-29-2006, 04:27 PM   #18
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Manual Tongue Jack Failure

Greetings ticki2!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ticki2
Most of the power jacks that I've seen also come with a manual crank handle if the motor or power should fail .
That manual crank handle gave me some peace of mind until I had to use it. At least the one included with the power jack installed on my Overlander (the same one that was used on new Airstreams at the time), it takes five or more turns on the emergency crank to equal one turn of the old manual cranked jack. I have had to use mine in emergency mode twice, and hope to never have to repeat the experience.

I haven't had great any difficulty running mine when connected to the tow vehicle Bargman plug, but my dealer has run an extra-heavy charge line since I insist upon a 3-Way RV Refrigerator and always tow with the refrigerator switched to 12-volt DC.

Kevin
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Old 10-29-2006, 04:35 PM   #19
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[quote=overlander64]Greetings ticki2!



That manual crank handle gave me some peace of mind until I had to use it. At least the one included with the power jack installed on my Overlander (the same one that was used on new Airstreams at the time), it takes five or more turns on the emergency crank to equal one turn of the old manual cranked jack. I have had to use mine in emergency mode twice, and hope to never have to repeat the experience.


That is true , it does take more turns , but then it turns easier . I just mention it so others don't think they are dead in the water because of a low battery or bad jack motor .
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Old 10-29-2006, 04:36 PM   #20
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That's good to know, I also had a heavy gauge charge line installed in the truck with a Modulite. Didn't know at the time if I was asking for overkill, but now there may be a payoff. Its good to know there is a manual override, but I'm not looking forward to that 5:1 work ratio!
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Old 10-30-2006, 05:48 PM   #21
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OK, here's the scoop

After some creative knot tying, rigging, and duct tape (duct tape fixes all! ) I got the TW jack post secure enough to travel without bouncing on the pavement. Its down at Truck and Trailer USA, they've done well with my stuff before, cheaper labor than RV places and they "know" me now. I'm sure they are muttering under their breath, "Oh man, here comes that chick with the Airstream . . .", but they smile, give me credit for what I know, and always do anything I ask. They sell Atwood's, but a 3500 lb was $459. And it will only raise 7 inches per minute, go figure. I went to Camping World and picked up the Ultrafab 3500 tongue jack, raises 20 inches per minute, has a manual crank that inserts at the top instead of the bottom, and has a 6" extra drop on the foot. Plus, my research shows it to be relatively trouble-free compared to Barker's. Overkill with 3500 lb, but with the multi level terrain in my area I really need the adjustable foot. Jim, I would have loved to get one off eBay, but none of the refurbished have the adjustable foot. So I shelled out the extra bucks. I'm tired of dragging around the concrete block, so in the long run it will be worth it. Kevin, you're right. They will have to cut off the existing jack. Truck and Trailer will wire for power to the trailer 12V and the TV 7-pin. And they will save the old parts and try to determine why it failed. It should be ready later this week, so I'll let ya'll know how it turns out. Gee, I'll miss the vintage look of the manual jack but I'm looking forward to giving my aching shoulder a rest.
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Old 11-01-2006, 07:22 AM   #22
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UltraFab 3500

Sugarfoot,

Congratulations on your purchase. I am sure you will be pleased with the Ultrafab 3500. We sell the Ultra fabs where I work on SOB trailers and they have proved very reliable.
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Old 11-01-2006, 09:05 AM   #23
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New Jack City

Sugarfoot you should be very pleased. The one thing I did do was remove the cap which covers the access hole for the auxiliary jack handle and put a bead of silicon sealer around the edge and reinsert. I was worried about a leak or the cap blowing off going down the road. I keep a 4 X 4 block in the bed of my truck to make adjustments, useful for other things also.

Jim
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Old 11-01-2006, 09:13 AM   #24
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Aux. Operator - Battery Operated Drill

[quote=ticki2]
Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander64
Greetings ticki2!



That manual crank handle gave me some peace of mind until I had to use it. At least the one included with the power jack installed on my Overlander (the same one that was used on new Airstreams at the time), it takes five or more turns on the emergency crank to equal one turn of the old manual cranked jack. I have had to use mine in emergency mode twice, and hope to never have to repeat the experience.


That is true , it does take more turns , but then it turns easier . I just mention it so others don't think they are dead in the water because of a low battery or bad jack motor .
I am now thinking Battery Operated Drill. I have to look at the fitting on my aux. handle. I always take my drill when I am on the road.

Jim
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Old 11-01-2006, 09:50 AM   #25
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Oh Jim, those are great ideas! I will certainly do that with the cap. Thanks! And the battery operated drill, that could just be the ticket.
Silverhobby, I'm glad to hear you haven't heard of issues with the Ultrafab either. That's the same thing the service tech at Camping World told me. Lots of others come back with problems, but only one Ultrafab in his experience. It was a wiring problem and was still under warranty.
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Old 11-01-2006, 02:18 PM   #26
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My trailer came with an electric jack, but the battery ceased to operate while I was towing it back to California, which meant that when I got back at about 11pm I had the trailer in the driveway, the truck attached & blocking most of the street... and no way to lift the trailer off the hitch. Eventually I was smart enough to plug the trailer into a 110V outlet and the converter was working, but for whatever reason (dubious wiring, probably the same reason the battery died) the jack still wouldn't work. In the end, while digging for a manual jack in the back of a friend's car I realized that one of the obstacles I had just removed from his trunk was one of those battery-starter kits containing a... 12V battery. (I was not at my sharpest at that moment.) Hooked that up to the jack directly and eventually got it off the truck, but right then I did wish for a manual jack. Still I think when the wiring is done correctly I'll be glad of it.
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Old 11-01-2006, 07:28 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacobwellcom
. . . . Eventually I was smart enough to plug the trailer into a 110V outlet and the converter was working, but for whatever reason (dubious wiring, probably the same reason the battery died) the jack still wouldn't work. In the end, while digging for a manual jack in the back of a friend's car I realized that one of the obstacles I had just removed from his trunk was one of those battery-starter kits containing a... 12V battery. (I was not at my sharpest at that moment.) Hooked that up to the jack directly and eventually got it off the truck, but right then I did wish for a manual jack. Still I think when the wiring is done correctly I'll be glad of it.
Jacobwellcom, that doesn't sound like a pleasant experience. I'm hoping to avoid a similar situation by having the jack wired to work with either the TV or the trailer battery. But I'm concerned about what you say regarding jack wiring actually draining the battery. Does an electric jack normally draw on the 12V even when not being deployed or is this a problem only if wired incorrectly?
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Old 11-02-2006, 03:24 PM   #28
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The jack wouldn't draw current when it's not being used. In my case something else must have caused the battery to go dead. The wiring in my trailer has some issues.
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