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Old 01-24-2015, 02:47 PM   #15
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2010 30' SO Classic
Mohawk , Michigan
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 8
Replacing switch

Just yesterday, Jan 23rd, as we were attempting to lift our Airstream off the hitch ball on our F-250, our Barker 3000 VIP jack suddenly quit. I checked the fuse and it was fine, and then I measured the voltage on the business side of the fuse and it was a solid +12 VDC. Called Barker, explained problem. CSR at Barker felt 99.9% it WAS the switch. I told her the light didn't work, either. She's sending two switches and a replacement lamp. She also said they had had considerable trouble with the switches on the 3000 VIP jack. Stay tuned...I expect switch next week!
Tom Scanlan

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Old 01-24-2015, 02:58 PM   #16
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2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
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We haven't heard from the OP for a while.

Other things to check are the jack fuse—located under the tongue—and whether the grease inside the head has disappeared. It doesn't really disappear, but as the gears spin, the grease is slowly blasted away and the gear seize. Take the head off and spread the grease back on the gears. The fuse cannot be easily found in electronic stores—it is only used by RV jacks, so you have to go to an RV store.

As I recall, there was a plastic bag with instructions and the crank with the trailer. Once you take the head off, you have to reset the jack and I believe the crank is necessary for that. Instructions can usually be found on the manufacturers website; crank probably has to be ordered.


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Old 01-24-2015, 05:10 PM   #17
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2012 30' International
1997 25' Safari
1967 20' Globetrotter
Burlington , Ontario
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When my Barker 3000 decided not to work, I used the crank to move the motor a little bit while operating the switch. This caused the motor to work with a great deal of spirit and spun the crank, slicing my arm in the process. Bad idea. Do not do this. The switch still works intermittently so I will have to order a new one before spring. I should have known better given my history of trying to crank the Morris in my Avatar. Given the outcome, I think the motor in the Barker 3000 is a lot stronger than the motor in my old Morris. Jim

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Old 06-05-2015, 07:56 PM   #18
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2005 31' Classic
Gretna , Nebraska
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Posts: 119
Jack lubrication

So I gather that I remove the jack head (allen screws) to get at the gears and check lubrication. Probably well overdue at 10 years!

Does the tongue need to be supported when removing the jack head?

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Old 06-08-2015, 05:20 PM   #19
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Grand Junction , Colorado
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The grease only stayed on for about 2 years, but since I smeared it back on the gears, 6 years without a problem. I guess I did a better job than the factory did (whose factory? Jack factory or Airstream?).

Hitch the trailer to the tow vehicle to remove any stress from the parts inside. My impression is those small plastic gears are all that holds the jack up and I wouldn't want them popping off with the cover off. Safer to hitch it than prop it up with something like scrap wood or your front steps. You have to recalibrate the jack after lubbing it, so it needs to move up and down in a way you can see just how far it goes in both directions. I don't think I explained that very well, but the instructions should help.

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Old 06-08-2015, 06:05 PM   #20
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Bowie , Maryland
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No, the jack post will hold the weight of the trailer even with the head completely off without spinning loose.

Note, if you do remove the head and adjust the height or spin the gears, you'll have to re-index (Gene said "calibrate") it. Basically you run the jack and motor all the way up or down, back off a half turn on the jack, then put the motor on. The motor should stop electrically before it hits one of the physical stops on the post.

But with mine, you can pull the top off the jack head without removing the head from the post (thus preserving the indexing). On mine, there are four screws under the head that you can remove. Other models are likely different.
1995 Airstream Classic 30' Excella 1000
2014 Ram 2500 Crew Cab with Cummins 6.7L Diesel

Sold but not forgotten: 1991 Airstream B190
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Old 06-18-2015, 04:12 PM   #21
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Grand Junction , Colorado
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Skater, I thought the jack would hold it, but it seemed better to hitch and remove the stress from the system when adjusting, calibrating and indexing. Off course, when the jack doesn't work, it may be really hard to hitch the trailer—I forgot about that part when I responded 10 days ago. I did this about 6 years ago and surely have forgotten most of it.

By the time most people have a problem, they have lost the hand crank and the instructions. You can get the instructions online if you have a way to get online where you are stuck. Since I can't remember exactly what it looked like inside, I'm not sure how you would crank it without a hand crank, but maybe a Visegrip would work. I think we were home when it stopped working, so that made it easier to solve. I hadn't lost the crank or the instructions yet.

Every year when I get the trailer ready, I don't check the grease in the jack head even though I have it on a checklist. Maybe I should include checking for the crank and the instructions. Then I can ignore that too. I know someday when I am in a hurry and the campground boss wants us to leave on time or they will charge us extra, the jack won't work. I will deserve it.

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Old 09-04-2015, 10:23 PM   #22
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San Antonio , Texas
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Just an added input, when our trailer batteries get low of out of juice our jack won't work or works very slowly, I found if I back my tow vehicle up and plug my trailer into the TV and leave the TV running the jack works just fine. Quick fix.
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:58 PM   #23
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2006 23' Safari SE
Nevada City , California
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Posts: 127
Barker can send you a new hand crank for around 15 bucks. One didn't come with my new to me trailer. Of course I needed it when far from my shop. A big screwdriver painstakingly used sideways will get you hitched up.

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