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Old 02-28-2012, 12:27 PM   #1
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Lift it and block it-How?

Hello everybody?
Since we need to do some major work on the belly pan (Removing/replacing insulation/sealing/placing the pan back) we are actually considering in lifting the trailer with 4 huge jacks (always keeping it level) and maybe placing some concrete blocks and 4x4s across the trailer.
Since the trailer will have to be parked for at least 6 to 8 months (while we remodel it) we were thinking of keeping it on blocks so the axles can take a brake in the mean time.
It will probably be a lot easier to work with a good clearance.
Any inputs?
Thanks
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Old 02-28-2012, 12:48 PM   #2
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Hello everybody?
Since we need to do some major work on the belly pan (Removing/replacing insulation/sealing/placing the pan back) we are actually considering in lifting the trailer with 4 huge jacks (always keeping it level) and maybe placing some concrete blocks and 4x4s across the trailer.
Since the trailer will have to be parked for at least 6 to 8 months (while we remodel it) we were thinking of keeping it on blocks so the axles can take a brake in the mean time.
It will probably be a lot easier to work with a good clearance.
Any inputs?
Thanks
Six good jack stands are simple and easy to place that will take care of the issue.

Place 2 on the frame, just forward of the bumper, then place 2 on the axle mounting plate between the tires, and 2 on the backside of the A-frame near the front of the shell.

Keeping the trailer level within itself is a very good idea.

Andy
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Old 02-28-2012, 01:37 PM   #3
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Hi Andy.
Thanks again you are always prompt to reply.
Also just wondering. How high is too high? and can we keep it like that for a long time?
Thanks
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:09 PM   #4
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Hi Andy.
Thanks again you are always prompt to reply.
Also just wondering. How high is too high? and can we keep it like that for a long time?
Thanks
Raise it just high enough so that the tires do not touch the ground.

If you have new axles installed, then that will also prolong their life.

You can keep it that way "forever".

Andy
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:25 PM   #5
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You could also use wood cribbing. I have a set of cribs nailed up from 24" pieces of 2x4 that I use. They are somewhat more stable than jackstands.
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Old 07-24-2012, 12:35 PM   #6
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HEy Andy,

I am in the process of doing frame, floor, etc.. When you say "good" jack stands for leveling, what size (tonnage) stands are you talking about? I have a 72 Tradewind, gutted!

Thanks
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:21 PM   #7
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HEy Andy,

I am in the process of doing frame, floor, etc.. When you say "good" jack stands for leveling, what size (tonnage) stands are you talking about? I have a 72 Tradewind, gutted!

Thanks
Just glancing at Northern Tool's website, the wimpiest stands they sell are rated for 2 tons, and most of them are rated for 3 tons or more. Since your trailer's original "total weight" (per Airstream publications) was just over 4,000 lb, and Andy's recommendation calls for 6 jack stands, it looks like you could support a stack of Tradewinds with any 6 stands NT sells.
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Old 07-24-2012, 02:21 PM   #8
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HEy Andy,

I am in the process of doing frame, floor, etc.. When you say "good" jack stands for leveling, what size (tonnage) stands are you talking about? I have a 72 Tradewind, gutted!

Thanks
3 tons or more, works OK.

Andy
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:27 PM   #9
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Cheers DBX and Andy!
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Old 07-25-2012, 02:04 PM   #10
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It was very important to have the unit lifted so I could slide around underneath it when dropping the bellypan. We used 1X12's square cut and routed out the footings for the jacks from Harbor freight. They never even moved a bit in 1 year of repairs. Strongly recommend it. We used a floor jack to lift it to insert the jacks. Hope it helps.
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Old 07-25-2012, 02:15 PM   #11
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The thing that is nice about the heavy duty stands is they usually have a larger more stable footprint on the ground. I "winter" mine on four 6 ton stands.....48,000 lbs of capacity for 8500 pounds (minus the tongue load) of AS. But it is really stable. Hasn't budged in up to 70mph gusts during storms.
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Old 09-30-2012, 10:04 PM   #12
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It was very important to have the unit lifted so I could slide around underneath it when dropping the bellypan. We used 1X12's square cut and routed out the footings for the jacks from Harbor freight. They never even moved a bit in 1 year of repairs. Strongly recommend it. We used a floor jack to lift it to insert the jacks. Hope it helps.
Randy
thanks for the pic!
We were thinking on building a little wooden platform like yours and specially since the trailer will be parked on the grass.
Sorry not not replying here before but for some reason sometimes we don't receive notifications on certain threads....mmm that's weird
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:49 PM   #13
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thanks for the pic!
We were thinking on building a little wooden platform like yours and specially since the trailer will be parked on the grass.
Sorry not not replying here before but for some reason sometimes we don't receive notifications on certain threads....mmm that's weird
You may want to consider a large wooden platform to spread the load if you are not on concrete. Also, don't ever use concrete blocks. The recommended 3 ton jack stands are a cheap investment. Also, make sure you are on level ground.
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:08 PM   #14
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You may want to consider a large wooden platform to spread the load if you are not on concrete. Also, don't ever use concrete blocks. The recommended 3 ton jack stands are a cheap investment. Also, make sure you are on level ground.
What's the problem with using concrete blocks, unless of course they are hollow..... Seems like placing the jack stands on solid concrete blocks would be more than adequate?
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