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Old 07-11-2007, 08:19 PM   #1
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1975 31' Sovereign
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Leveling Question

We have a 31 ft 1975 AS Land Yaught Sovereign (we love it!) at a camp ground and do not plan on moving it. It was moved from one lot to another and was level at first but now I am needing to relevel it a little because the shower does not completely drain. When it was first set up, the side to side leveling was done by letting air out of the tires a little at a time. Is the the best way to level it side to side? I ask because there is quite a bit of air out of some of the tires (double axel) and I do not know if over time this will ruin the tires if we wanted to move it again. Should I put all the air back in the tires and use leveling blocks under the wheels? If I add air to the tires I assume this will throw off the front to back leveling as well. I plan on leveling it again this weekend or the next and any tips on properly leveling my AS is greatly appreciated.
--dave
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:28 PM   #2
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Abandon tire inflation as a leveling tool. Air up the tires to a consistent pressure, ie, max load cold pressure value molded into the side of the tire. You're on the right track with wood blocks under the tires. This is the method to adjust side to side level. Use the tongue jack to adjust the fore and aft level.
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:32 PM   #3
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Don't forget to put your stabilizing jacks down as well.
This will not aid in leveling but it will give you the stability to walk around in the trailer without any wobble.
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:34 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lohnesdl
We have a 31 ft 1975 AS Land Yaught Sovereign (we love it!) at a camp ground and do not plan on moving it. It was moved from one lot to another and was level at first but now I am needing to relevel it a little because the shower does not completely drain. When it was first set up, the side to side leveling was done by letting air out of the tires a little at a time. Is the the best way to level it side to side? I ask because there is quite a bit of air out of some of the tires (double axel) and I do not know if over time this will ruin the tires if we wanted to move it again. Should I put all the air back in the tires and use leveling blocks under the wheels? If I add air to the tires I assume this will throw off the front to back leveling as well. I plan on leveling it again this weekend or the next and any tips on properly leveling my AS is greatly appreciated.
--dave
The proper procedure is to roll the trailer tires onto wooden 2X6's or 2X8's cut to length for each tire or plastic blocks such as Lynx Levelers or the yellow Lego-looking blocks sold at Camping World. I use 2X6's with the ends beveled. An extra 1X6 comes in handy every once in awhile also. Rarely do I have to use one on top of another. Do not let air out of your tires! It is not good for the sidewalls.
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Old 07-11-2007, 09:38 PM   #5
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Level the fridge, not the shower

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Originally Posted by lohnesdl
I am needing to relevel it a little because the shower does not completely drain. --dave
If the the fridge in not reasonably level, especially for that vintage, you could cause irrepaparable damage. Hint- a new firdge will cost you over a grand. I would make sure having the trailer leveled so the shower drains does not throw the fridge off. When leveling put a bubble level in the freezer and level to that.
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Old 07-11-2007, 09:45 PM   #6
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Tires old and tired?

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Originally Posted by lohnesdl
there is quite a bit of air out of some of the tires (double axel) and I do not know if over time this will ruin the tires if we wanted to move it again. --dave
Also, If those tires hold air they should be ok to move from one lot to another but may not be for the road. It sounds like they may have sat a while. Old tires can still look good and have lots of tread but be a blowout waiting to happen. I think everybody will agree a trailer tire 5 years old is fine. A lot of people will push it to 7 or 8. 10 years old or older is asking for it.
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Old 07-11-2007, 10:11 PM   #7
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You have come to exactly the right place for some excellent advice. The folks here have a wealth of knowledge that they share freely and I learn something new from them every time I log on.

The only thing I would add, is that if you are placing your trailer in one place for a lenght of time, it would help to maintain level if you place supports under your jack stands.

The supports could be wood or plastic. The supports would prevent your jack stands for sinking into a soft base such as sand or gravel at your camp site.

If the jack stands sunk down, your trailer would no longer be level.
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Old 07-11-2007, 10:32 PM   #8
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First off, wlcome to the Forums. We're glad to have you with us.

reinflate your tires to spec. Get some Lynx Levelers at Wal-Mart or get some lumber scraps, and raise the low side by backing onto the blocks.
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Old 07-12-2007, 10:13 AM   #9
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Lo cash solution.

If you're po like me (I can't even afford the 'or'), you might check at a local junk yard or salvage yard and see if they have any scissor jacks out of wrecked cars that reasonably match. Sometimes they may be free or at least very cheap. Check to make sure they are fuctional and not abused or bent. Slap a good base of wood or gravel underneath to prevent sinking, and voila. I would use two at the rear and two in the front. This way if the ground should soften or a corner sinks you can make a quick adjustment easily. If they get opened all the way just put some more 2 by's underneath.
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Old 07-12-2007, 10:16 AM   #10
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PS...Use the lo cash solution only after the tires are pumped properly and as level as possible. Use the scissor jacks for stabilizing and making small adjustments only.
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Old 07-14-2007, 08:21 AM   #11
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Leveling 101 for a newbie (me!)

Greetings Forum Folks,
Two weeks ago my wife and I purchased a 1976 31' Sovereign. YEEHHAA!

Having a great time living in it, and fixing all that was neglected over the last decade.
Our friend (GOOD friend!) moved it for us, as we have no tow vehicle as yet (anyone know how to convert a VW Westfalia into a reliable tow vehicle eheheh)
The trailer is parked, the stabilizers are down, but now that things have 'settled' we need a bit more attention to the leveling. THing is- no TV, no roling it up on blocks!! I am reading here to not use the stabilizers for major weight bearing, just stabilizing. We are going to be in this spot for the next year (SW Colorado Winter and all)- it'll take about that long to get everything ready to take it out on the road!

I sure have appreciated the information and community of this forum. Still stumble alot on the getting around to find info etc but I'll keep 'practicing!'!


Yesterday we finished replacing the visible waterlines from Copper to FlexPex, complete with Sharkbite connectors. THAT was a learning experience! But thats another post......

Thanks again for all your help, so far and into the future!

-Sunny
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Old 07-14-2007, 09:19 AM   #12
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Bring tires to pressure (Don't do that again!) Level up with curb side and front end SLIGHTLY higher to facilitate draining to tanks. In final state you should end up on 2X8's long enough for both wheels (They act like snow shoes so you don't sink in) and stabilizer jacks, with their boards in place. If you mess with leveling again, don't forget to take off stab jacks first.

Fog
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Old 07-14-2007, 10:46 AM   #13
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If the trailer is not level side to side as it now sits hitch up and pull forward enough to allow you to place whatever it takes to level the trailer side to side when you back onto your supports.

With the trailer level side to side. I you have and electric jack, or ue a hand jack position it so the rear of the trailer is slightly high, 1/2 in difference or so front to rear, or as the y say a half a bubble of center. Now place your rear supports in place or set the stabilizer jacks if so equiped. Make sure that any support not already connected to the trailer is under the frame and not just under the skin.

Now jack the front of the trailer just above level, just when the bubble on the level shows the front is high. Place your front supports and relax the tongue jack.

Setting the trailer this way takes some of the load off the axles and thus the rubber in the axles is less likely to take a set.

I would not use wood under anything, for long term, unless it is treated. I would prefer flag stone or a well tamped gravel pad.
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Old 07-14-2007, 11:53 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidz71
The proper procedure is to roll the trailer tires onto wooden 2X6's or 2X8's cut to length for each tire or plastic blocks such as Lynx Levelers or the yellow Lego-looking blocks sold at Camping World. I use 2X6's with the ends beveled. An extra 1X6 comes in handy every once in awhile also. Rarely do I have to use one on top of another. Do not let air out of your tires! It is not good for the sidewalls.
I use the Lynx Levelers. While they may seem like overkill for a trailer as small as the Base Camp, it eliminates the chance of moving bugs around (don't like 'em in the TV ot TT), and being bright orange, I'm not able to miss loading them back into the TV after breaking camp. Another plus is that they are light and very, very strong.
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