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Old 04-22-2018, 01:31 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffcharb View Post
Is anyone interested in aluminum levelers?
Attachment 309251
now thats a leveler!
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Old 04-22-2018, 02:10 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by cliffcharb View Post
Is anyone interested in aluminum levelers?
Attachment 309251


Now where'd you find those??????
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Old 04-22-2018, 02:13 PM   #31
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Now where'd you find those??????


They were made in the 70's I believe. I looked in to casting new but am looking at about $200 per pair retail.
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Old 04-22-2018, 05:15 PM   #32
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I assume the pegs are needed to keep levels 2 & 3 from sliding around, right?

I’ve been thinking of doing something like that.

Would you have a picture? I seem to be short on visualization.
The trailer is in storage. I will be pulling it next week and will take pictures.

Al
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Old 04-22-2018, 05:52 PM   #33
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I've been using my pressure treated 2x8's for 12 years. They still work as good as new. As to being heavy, Naaaaa. Cheap and easy to replace should I forget them somewhere. Personally I don't see the need for anything else.

PS: I think I have a set of those aluminum things too. Never used them. I forget I even have it
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Old 04-22-2018, 06:00 PM   #34
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I wish I had seen these before buying the plastic Camcos.....

https://www.etrailer.com/Wheel-Chock...saAi6HEALw_wcB
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Old 04-22-2018, 06:27 PM   #35
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http://https://www.amazon.com/Beech-...rds=beech+laneI just learned of these today. I think I am willing to take a closer look.
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Old 04-22-2018, 07:01 PM   #36
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Guessing your link meant to lead here?

https://www.amazon.com/Beech-Lane-Ca.../dp/B078TMK6ZD

Your link did not work, but this one says "unavailable."
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:27 AM   #37
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I'm weighing in favor of the wood scraps.

I enjoy making stuff out of my own junk, and do not wish to incur unnecessary expense..

Mine are treated plywood with round-over edges, painted alkyd black. They were cut to fit an old metal milk basket that carries all the “outside gimmicks” pertinent to trailer.. The flat boards multi-function, and can even support automotive jackstands. The milk basket can be a step, seat, jack safety, and heighten me when threading the rope 'n' pole awning into its rail.

Yup, sneak preview... I'm building a '68 K10 Suburban “companion” for the '68GT.


It may be different for tandems and tridems, but no board slip issues leveling the 3000 pound, single axle GT. Various board heights and ramp angles are achievable.

Re-purposing wood scraps works OK.
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Old 04-27-2018, 04:34 AM   #38
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I would like to replace the Andersen leveler also, due to the Corona Arch issue.

I have a single axle trailer and have parked in some very uneven locations, once in a state park in TN the tire had to be lifted about 7 inches to find level.

I made beveled 2x6" layered wood blocks, have the Lynx blocks, and have 6" wood blocks (painted). I have a hard time judging how many blocks to use and kept having to roll back and forth as new blocks were added.

I also have the BAL 28050 Light Trailer Tire Leveler (Amazon). I may go back to using it. It is heavy and requires a block under the 15" wheel to raise the wheel enough to fit the thing under the tires. A bit hard to turn the racket that comes with it but a longer handle wrench does the trick as does an electric battery drill.

Much prefer the Andersen levelers, but may try the Camco 44423 or the Beech Lane Camper Leveler. The metal Blaylock is a bit too heavy and may damage the wheel well. I have had the Andersen flip up into the wheel well and get wedged between the tire and the wheel well. I shudder to think what would have happened with the big metal Blaylock. These types of levelers do slip sometimes, but overall work have worked well.
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Old 04-27-2018, 04:40 AM   #39
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Interesting suggestion regarding the Beech (from the Amazon description) when using with tandem axles:

"TWO LEVELERS CAN BE USED FOR DUAL AXLE TRAILERS, BUT UP TO 4" MAY NEED TO BE CUT OFF THE END OF ONE LEVELER DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH SPACE IS BETWEEN TIRES- For dual axle trailers one leveler may need to be cut to length to fit, up to 4" can be cut off the leveler with no adverse effects. The amount of space needed between tires to fit without cutting depends on tire size. Typically it is about 2.5" to 3" of space, but this varies with tire size."

People use these in place of a jack when used with tandem axle trailers.
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Old 04-27-2018, 05:21 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Guessing your link meant to lead here?

https://www.amazon.com/Beech-Lane-Ca.../dp/B078TMK6ZD
The listing notes up to four inches mohair to be cut off to fit between tandem axles.
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Old 05-08-2018, 04:04 PM   #41
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Any chance you all might consider continuing the Leveling discussion here, thus freeing up the other thread for Andersen graffiti related posts? At some point there may be an indictment issued, hopefully!

Thanks,

Peter


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocinante View Post
Definitely interesting, though it really does seem all the slipping is going on *under* the ramps, not between the ramp & tire. Easy enough to try, I guess.

I also saw a thread where some AF members had put a pattern of hex-head stainless screws into the bottom of their red ramps which worked like a studded tire, improving the ramps’ traction against the ground. Might try that with the yellow ramps, though I wonder what that would do to the grey chocks we put under the yellow ramps to lock them in position.
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I wonder if spray paint would cover red plastic. Keep the functionality, delete the advertising.
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Interesting. The listing notes it includes friction tape to put on the TOP of the leveler and to never put it on the bottom. That could mean with the added friction the rotation of the tire helps to draw the leveler under the it in stead of spitting it out.

If this holds true, I may not be so stupid after all. Nah.
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Had those - didn't help on the gravel.

I think I still have my legos....
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Old 05-08-2018, 05:09 PM   #42
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I made levelers out of 2x8. They can go up to 4.5" tall. Ends are beveled at 45 degrees. The base has two holes in it. Layer 2 has pieces of wood closet rod in holes match drilled to the base and two more holes for the third level pegs. Level 3 has closet rod in holes match drilled to the holes in level 2. My first version had the pegs pointing up, but that meant if I wanted 1 block at one wheel and 2 at the other it was hard to get things to line up when pulling on. My driveway is sloped such that I need one block right rear, two blocks right front, and one block left front.

I store them in the bumper drawer.

There was a post on here by someone who made Andersen-style levelers out of wood. He laminated up some 2x6. He stacked the laminated block on edge and cut the curved edges for the leveler and the chock. They looked like they would work just fine but it was a lot of work.

I was just before ordering some Andersens, but now am looking at alternatives. The Camco units appear to be too narrow to fully support the tires. 235 tires are 9.3" wide. The tread is not that wide, but I'm uncomfortable letting them hang off as much as the pictures on Camco's website show.

Al

I made some similar to your design many years ago for my truck camper. I beveled them and stacked them 3 high then drilled them in two places and I would shove carriage bolts in from the top to hold them (a slight recess into the tops to keep them flat). You can pin the first two together then if the third is needed add two more carriage bolts, or carry two sizes and pin them all at once
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