Leveling, post-Andersen

[YippieKiYa]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

The base has two holes in it. Layer 2 has pieces of wood closet rod in holes match drilled to the base and two more holes for the third level pegs. Level 3 has closet rod in holes match drilled to the holes in level 2. My first version had the pegs pointing up, but that meant if I wanted 1 block at one wheel and 2 at the other it was hard to get things to line up when pulling on.

Al

I was just thinking about pinning/slotting the levels so that they’d lock, and your solution is better than what I was thinking about.

I also liked a prior comment to use cedar, but it’s not as common as pine when scrap hunting. If buying the lumber, it makes a lot of sense.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by YippieKiYa

They also make good planks for walking on when the camp is rain soaked and soggy. Or built up as a step if the ground under your entry is low. Or as someone else mentioned, they hold down camp rugs on windy days.

When they get cracked or have outlived their usefulness, they make good firewood, too. Pilfer the hopper or bonfire pile at a construction site and you can replace it for free.

They do eat up payload capacity and space, though not as much as a teenage boy who can’t get off of his phone. :-)

All great points. I started with [2ea] 16’ of 12”x2” Pressure treat. Backed the truck near the trailer and used as ramp to slide the next to last AC unit onto the roof from the bed.

Then cut down to 6’ for trailer parking (per Michelin, on any surface) and last pieces were 12” sq for stabilizers. Extras not needed in leveling are for entryway.

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by slowmover

...
Then cut down to 6’ for trailer parking (per Michelin, on any surface) ...

6'? What did Michelin specify? At first I thought you said 6" and it meant the width under the tread.

Al

[Wayne&Sam]

I typically use various 2x8 and 3/4' plywood boards with beveled ends. I also have a set of the interlocking blocks for when I need even more.

I tried An**&&ns but sent them back as they didn't fit well between the two axles with 16" wheels. I just got a set of Camcos. I think they will be useful for quick, one night stops and in conjunction with the LevelMate.

[WhereStream]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

I made levelers out of 2x8. The base has two holes in it. Layer 2 has pieces of wood closet rod in holes match drilled to the base and two more holes for the third level pegs. Level 3 has closet rod in holes match drilled to the holes in level.
Al

I assume the pegs are needed to keep levels 2 & 3 from sliding around, right?

I’ve been thinking of doing something like that.

Would you have a picture? I seem to be short on visualization.

[PKI]

There was a patent that specified three pieces of steel pinned like a piano hinge on the connection points. Two of the pieces are curved and the assy folds for storage. The patent recognizes that a plastic form with same function could be used. Hmmm???

Link to patent is in other thread. There is also info there about black curved levelers from what seems to be another source. So, no need to do without a good idea if you think it is.

I don't, because I really like the legos. Lift, load spread, lighter than wood, generally don't slip. What is not to like. Well, rocks do get stuck in the bottom holes, they often need some fiddling to stack. You can only use one type as they don't mix and match. But they are sunk cost and I'm up for using them.

Wood - too heavy. Does not come in silver. Can have some bad bugs if you pull it from the wrong construction stack. And splits when most needed. But Murphy is highly over rated. Most of us have a board or two that just takes up space and could be repurposed.

Also cut up a piece of plywood into 16" x 16" squares. Provides a light weight base for stablizers and tongue jack. Gets used for a stepping stone when the wet arrives. Is a work surface to protect picnic table from grill heat. And the list goes on.

Be flexible and you too can get level. Pat

[Rocinante]

Best thing about the yellow Camco ramps: shorter and lighter than the red ones. Thus, easier to use on a dual-axle trailer, and easier to carry around.

Worst thing: steeper ramp means they want to slip as you roll up on them even more than the red ones do.

To misquote a famous movie, "We're gonna need a bigger roll of friction tape."

OTOH, we still have our three bags of Lynx blocks and flat caps for them. We mostly use them for stabilizers and the tongue jack, but they have always worked well for most anything at all. May eventually go back to the blocks for leveling and toss *all* those ramps.

[cliffcharb]

Is anyone interested in aluminum levelers?

[AlinCal]

Originally Posted by cliffcharb

Is anyone interested in aluminum levelers?
Attachment 309251

now thats a leveler!

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by cliffcharb

Is anyone interested in aluminum levelers?
Attachment 309251

Now where'd you find those??????

[cliffcharb]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Now where'd you find those??????

They were made in the 70's I believe. I looked in to casting new but am looking at about $200 per pair retail.

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by WhereStream

I assume the pegs are needed to keep levels 2 & 3 from sliding around, right?

I’ve been thinking of doing something like that.

Would you have a picture? I seem to be short on visualization.

The trailer is in storage. I will be pulling it next week and will take pictures.

Al

[polarlyse]

I've been using my pressure treated 2x8's for 12 years. They still work as good as new. As to being heavy, Naaaaa. Cheap and easy to replace should I forget them somewhere. Personally I don't see the need for anything else.

PS: I think I have a set of those aluminum things too. Never used them. I forget I even have it

[SteveSueMac]

I wish I had seen these before buying the plastic Camcos.....

https://www.etrailer.com/Wheel-Chock...saAi6HEALw_wcB

[Overloaded]

http://https://www.amazon.com/Beech-...rds=beech+laneI just learned of these today. I think I am willing to take a closer look.

[OTRA15]

Guessing your link meant to lead here?

https://www.amazon.com/Beech-Lane-Ca.../dp/B078TMK6ZD

Your link did not work, but this one says "unavailable."

[ALUMINUMINUM]

I'm weighing in favor of the wood scraps.

I enjoy making stuff out of my own junk, and do not wish to incur unnecessary expense..

Mine are treated plywood with round-over edges, painted alkyd black. They were cut to fit an old metal milk basket that carries all the “outside gimmicks” pertinent to trailer.. The flat boards multi-function, and can even support automotive jackstands. The milk basket can be a step, seat, jack safety, and heighten me when threading the rope 'n' pole awning into its rail.

Yup, sneak preview... I'm building a '68 K10 Suburban “companion” for the '68GT.


It may be different for tandems and tridems, but no board slip issues leveling the 3000 pound, single axle GT. Various board heights and ramp angles are achievable.

Re-purposing wood scraps works OK.

[Rzrbrn]

I would like to replace the Andersen leveler also, due to the Corona Arch issue.

I have a single axle trailer and have parked in some very uneven locations, once in a state park in TN the tire had to be lifted about 7 inches to find level.

I made beveled 2x6" layered wood blocks, have the Lynx blocks, and have 6" wood blocks (painted). I have a hard time judging how many blocks to use and kept having to roll back and forth as new blocks were added.

I also have the BAL 28050 Light Trailer Tire Leveler (Amazon). I may go back to using it. It is heavy and requires a block under the 15" wheel to raise the wheel enough to fit the thing under the tires. A bit hard to turn the racket that comes with it but a longer handle wrench does the trick as does an electric battery drill.

Much prefer the Andersen levelers, but may try the Camco 44423 or the Beech Lane Camper Leveler. The metal Blaylock is a bit too heavy and may damage the wheel well. I have had the Andersen flip up into the wheel well and get wedged between the tire and the wheel well. I shudder to think what would have happened with the big metal Blaylock. These types of levelers do slip sometimes, but overall work have worked well.

[Rzrbrn]

Interesting suggestion regarding the Beech (from the Amazon description) when using with tandem axles:

"TWO LEVELERS CAN BE USED FOR DUAL AXLE TRAILERS, BUT UP TO 4" MAY NEED TO BE CUT OFF THE END OF ONE LEVELER DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH SPACE IS BETWEEN TIRES- For dual axle trailers one leveler may need to be cut to length to fit, up to 4" can be cut off the leveler with no adverse effects. The amount of space needed between tires to fit without cutting depends on tire size. Typically it is about 2.5" to 3" of space, but this varies with tire size."

People use these in place of a jack when used with tandem axle trailers.

[Wayne&Sam]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Guessing your link meant to lead here?

https://www.amazon.com/Beech-Lane-Ca.../dp/B078TMK6ZD

The listing notes up to four inches mohair to be cut off to fit between tandem axles.