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Old 04-21-2018, 11:08 AM   #15
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This is such old tech that, ...... boards under the wheels spread the ground pressure over a large area. Doesn’t sink if at all. Hitch the horses, and it'll move without strain.



Place as needed also ahead of the rear TV tires and get it rolling smartly . Right on up to the hard surface road.



Send the teenage boy back to collect, wipe down and store while you top off the coffee cup from the thermos.


.


They also make good planks for walking on when the camp is rain soaked and soggy. Or built up as a step if the ground under your entry is low. Or as someone else mentioned, they hold down camp rugs on windy days.

When they get cracked or have outlived their usefulness, they make good firewood, too. Pilfer the hopper or bonfire pile at a construction site and you can replace it for free.

They do eat up payload capacity and space, though not as much as a teenage boy who can’t get off of his phone. :-)
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Old 04-21-2018, 12:30 PM   #16
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Construction cedar is a good alternative wood, as it is lighter, cheaper, and often has a rough-sawn texture which is good for all those uses, plus makes great kindling when cut to about 8" in length and split to size.
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Old 04-21-2018, 12:43 PM   #17
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I use 2x6 painted w/rustoleum blue, matches AS blue. The reason for painting is when muddy or dirty, simple hose off, clean again & I don't have mud or dirt prob. in storage. I have used for 55 + yrs. only cost is paint, as others posted scraps & friendly contractors.
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Old 04-21-2018, 12:48 PM   #18
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Cut pieces of 2x4 and/or 2x6 here. In a pinch, will make heat out of them!
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Old 04-21-2018, 12:53 PM   #19
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I thought I remembered someone in here making a wooden set of something similar to the curved levelers - is that ringing a bell with anyone? That would be fun!
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Old 04-21-2018, 01:08 PM   #20
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I made levelers out of 2x8. They can go up to 4.5" tall. Ends are beveled at 45 degrees. The base has two holes in it. Layer 2 has pieces of wood closet rod in holes match drilled to the base and two more holes for the third level pegs. Level 3 has closet rod in holes match drilled to the holes in level 2. My first version had the pegs pointing up, but that meant if I wanted 1 block at one wheel and 2 at the other it was hard to get things to line up when pulling on. My driveway is sloped such that I need one block right rear, two blocks right front, and one block left front.

I store them in the bumper drawer.

There was a post on here by someone who made Andersen-style levelers out of wood. He laminated up some 2x6. He stacked the laminated block on edge and cut the curved edges for the leveler and the chock. They looked like they would work just fine but it was a lot of work.

I was just before ordering some Andersens, but now am looking at alternatives. The Camco units appear to be too narrow to fully support the tires. 235 tires are 9.3" wide. The tread is not that wide, but I'm uncomfortable letting them hang off as much as the pictures on Camco's website show.

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Old 04-21-2018, 01:35 PM   #21
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The base has two holes in it. Layer 2 has pieces of wood closet rod in holes match drilled to the base and two more holes for the third level pegs. Level 3 has closet rod in holes match drilled to the holes in level 2. My first version had the pegs pointing up, but that meant if I wanted 1 block at one wheel and 2 at the other it was hard to get things to line up when pulling on.

Al


I was just thinking about pinning/slotting the levels so that they’d lock, and your solution is better than what I was thinking about.

I also liked a prior comment to use cedar, but it’s not as common as pine when scrap hunting. If buying the lumber, it makes a lot of sense.
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Old 04-21-2018, 05:03 PM   #22
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They also make good planks for walking on when the camp is rain soaked and soggy. Or built up as a step if the ground under your entry is low. Or as someone else mentioned, they hold down camp rugs on windy days.

When they get cracked or have outlived their usefulness, they make good firewood, too. Pilfer the hopper or bonfire pile at a construction site and you can replace it for free.

They do eat up payload capacity and space, though not as much as a teenage boy who can’t get off of his phone. :-)
All great points. I started with [2ea] 16’ of 12”x2” Pressure treat. Backed the truck near the trailer and used as ramp to slide the next to last AC unit onto the roof from the bed.

Then cut down to 6’ for trailer parking (per Michelin, on any surface) and last pieces were 12” sq for stabilizers. Extras not needed in leveling are for entryway.
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Old 04-21-2018, 05:13 PM   #23
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...
Then cut down to 6’ for trailer parking (per Michelin, on any surface) ...
6'? What did Michelin specify? At first I thought you said 6" and it meant the width under the tread.

Al
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Old 04-21-2018, 05:16 PM   #24
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I typically use various 2x8 and 3/4' plywood boards with beveled ends. I also have a set of the interlocking blocks for when I need even more.

I tried An**&&ns but sent them back as they didn't fit well between the two axles with 16" wheels. I just got a set of Camcos. I think they will be useful for quick, one night stops and in conjunction with the LevelMate.
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Old 04-21-2018, 05:27 PM   #25
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I made levelers out of 2x8. The base has two holes in it. Layer 2 has pieces of wood closet rod in holes match drilled to the base and two more holes for the third level pegs. Level 3 has closet rod in holes match drilled to the holes in level.
Al
I assume the pegs are needed to keep levels 2 & 3 from sliding around, right?

I’ve been thinking of doing something like that.

Would you have a picture? I seem to be short on visualization.
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Old 04-21-2018, 06:55 PM   #26
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There was a patent that specified three pieces of steel pinned like a piano hinge on the connection points. Two of the pieces are curved and the assy folds for storage. The patent recognizes that a plastic form with same function could be used. Hmmm???

Link to patent is in other thread. There is also info there about black curved levelers from what seems to be another source. So, no need to do without a good idea if you think it is.

I don't, because I really like the legos. Lift, load spread, lighter than wood, generally don't slip. What is not to like. Well, rocks do get stuck in the bottom holes, they often need some fiddling to stack. You can only use one type as they don't mix and match. But they are sunk cost and I'm up for using them.

Wood - too heavy. Does not come in silver. Can have some bad bugs if you pull it from the wrong construction stack. And splits when most needed. But Murphy is highly over rated. Most of us have a board or two that just takes up space and could be repurposed.

Also cut up a piece of plywood into 16" x 16" squares. Provides a light weight base for stablizers and tongue jack. Gets used for a stepping stone when the wet arrives. Is a work surface to protect picnic table from grill heat. And the list goes on.

Be flexible and you too can get level. Pat
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Old 04-21-2018, 10:04 PM   #27
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Best thing about the yellow Camco ramps: shorter and lighter than the red ones. Thus, easier to use on a dual-axle trailer, and easier to carry around.

Worst thing: steeper ramp means they want to slip as you roll up on them even more than the red ones do.

To misquote a famous movie, "We're gonna need a bigger roll of friction tape."

OTOH, we still have our three bags of Lynx blocks and flat caps for them. We mostly use them for stabilizers and the tongue jack, but they have always worked well for most anything at all. May eventually go back to the blocks for leveling and toss *all* those ramps.
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Old 04-22-2018, 01:15 PM   #28
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Is anyone interested in aluminum levelers?
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