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Old 12-16-2008, 07:56 PM   #71
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new axles

I just bought new axles from Inland Andy and want to take care of them because they repersent big bucks. Since the axle mounting plates hold the entire weight of the trailer while driving and going up hills and around curves and such I have to belive they are the strongest point on the entire frame. This is where I will jack my trailer up per Inland Andy's instructions. It just makes good sense. My Dura Flex manual says to remove the load from the axles if the trailer is parked for a long time. I don't think it hurts the front jack to bear the weight of the trailer while in storage. Thats my opinion for whats it's worth.

Ramp
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Old 01-04-2009, 07:53 PM   #72
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Unfortunately, I am going to have the leave the trailer in covered storage for a couple of years.
Well, a sad day, but it was very straightforward getting the Sport ready to "sit."

Based on the superb guidance offered here, I decided to pull the wheels, jackstand the axle plates, and put stabilizers on the tongue and underbody jack points. This little trailer is so rock steady at 'dead plumb' level on 8 jacks - and the door shuts with a solid single thump - I almost wish I could use this "bridge and ironworks" solution all the time!

Just have to finish low-pressure blowing out the water lines, and remove the battery. Still really bummed at spending the next couple of years staying in hotels rather than the little A/S beauty. But the good news is shopping for a new TV when we get back from Europe.




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Old 06-14-2012, 08:55 PM   #73
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i'm not exactly sure if/why one should do this......relieving the load? once the jack is removed the weight is back on the wheels/tires and therefore the axles right? so what does this accomplish?

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2air'
I agree with the good Doc - leave her on the wheels - move a few inches so they don't get flat spots if your worried about that...
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:06 AM   #74
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Thumbs up I found this informative....

^ back to top

Dear Len,

Thank you for contacting Bridgestone and allowing us to assist you.

First of all, regarding the effects of storage:

A cool, dry, sealed garage is your best condition for storage, however, it is realized that this is not often an available option. Concrete is not the tire enemy some people think it is.

We would recommend the following steps in storing a vehicle:

1. Make sure the floor / ground surface is free of any petroleum product contamination (Oil, grease, fuel, etc.) since petroleum products will attack rubber and can cause significant damage to compound characteristics.

2. Thoroughly clean your tires with soap and water.

3. Place a barrier such as plastic, cardboard, or plywood between the tires and the ground surface.

4. Cover your tires to block out direct sunlight and ultra violet rays.

5. Do not store the vehicle in close proximity to steam pipes, electrical generators or animal manure since these accelerate oxidation of the rubber.

6. Make sure your tires are fully inflated with air.

7. When the vehicle is ready to go back into service, inspect the tires for excessive cracking in both the sidewall and tread area and check all tire air pressures. Tires will normally lose about 2 PSI per month so you should expect to find the pressures lower than when you put the vehicle into storage. Re-inflate the tires to the correct air pressure before operation.

Now, about the effects of time:

Yes, rubber compound does slowly change over time, becoming "harder" as it ages. But unless we are talking years, this would be virtually undetectable. However; the most likely effect of storage will be:

1. Flat spotting of the tires from taking a 'set' while sitting in one position for an extended length of time. This 'set' may work itself out of the tires after being put back into operation, but not always. This, of course, would result in a vibration.

2. Tires have waxes and oils specially formulated to protect against ozone damage built into their rubber compounds. When the tire rotates and flexes, these waxes and oils are forced to the tire's surface and are thus able to protect the tire. When a tire is stationary, these waxes and oils are not coming to the surface and thus the tire is at greater risk of ozone damage.

3. Several days of non-use at a time is not nearly as detrimental to tires as long storage periods. The tires would still be operated often enough to avoid excessive 'set' and the waxes and oils are being forced to the tire's surface often enough to provide adequate protection against ozone.

Best regards, Tire Doctor


Bob

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Old 06-15-2012, 10:56 AM   #75
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Ok. Thanks to all the info on this thread I think I might be the last person to have located the "Axle Mounting Plates" on an AS... I have a 19' Bambi.
One last question: Should the jack be placed forward or aft of the wheels before lifting on a single axle?
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:11 AM   #76
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Ok. Thanks to all the info on this thread I think I might be the last person to have located the "Axle Mounting Plates" on an AS... I have a 19' Bambi.
One last question: Should the jack be placed forward or aft of the wheels before lifting on a single axle?
Aft, always.

Andy
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Old 09-11-2016, 12:51 PM   #77
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I know this is an old topic but I had been using the axle mounting plate to place my axle stands aft of the rear axles but it has bent the plate. The vertical is OK it is the horizontal part that bent from the cradle of the jack stands. You can see that small bend it in the first photo. The stronger point in my observation is where the axle stand is now in that photo. Is that plate where I have the jack stand which is welded to the axle (the plate that bolts through to the axle mounting plate) the same safe method recommended by Inland Andy and others or is this possibly going to affect alignment too? You can see in photo 1and 2 the 2 axle stands sit nicely in that plate and wont slip. The axle stands do not touch the axle tube. I am afraid if I use the axle stands sideways or off center on the other parts of the axle mounting plate so that I avoid bending the axle mounting plate the axle stands are able to slip off that way while jacking the other side. Should I change what I do in these photos and accept the bending of the axle mounting plate?
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Old 09-13-2016, 12:00 PM   #78
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I've read this thread and have learned important info about jacking my 2017 FC. It makes sense. What doesn't make sense is my manual clearly states to only jack at indicated spots, " To change a tire with a jack, see the label af xed to the underbelly located to the rear of the wheels. This label reads JACK with an arrow pointing to a plate riveted
to the mainframe rail where the jack head must be placed". I tried to lift trailer at their jack point and I thought I was going to bend something so backed off. Glad I found this info.
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Old 09-15-2016, 09:31 AM   #79
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I've used the jack marked spot with a floor jack when I changed wheels and tires, but I did place a block of wood between the jack and the Airstream marked area to keep the spot supported with a flat surface. I was able to get both wheels off the ground at the same time.

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Old 09-15-2016, 09:49 AM   #80
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I've used the jack marked spot with a floor jack when I changed wheels and tires, but I did place a block of wood between the jack and the Airstream marked area to keep the spot supported with a flat surface. I was able to get both wheels off the ground at the same time.

Jack
Ditto.

If one uses a jack with a top piece that puts a point load on a corner of the small OEM aluminum jack plate, it is possible to bend the plate. [The photos in Post #77 show such a jack.] Putting the small block of wood between them distributes the small point load uniformly to the entire surface area of the jack plate. Also, the more basic hydraulic jacks usually have a small round head, not the "U" shaped head shown in those photos, which are designed to cradle an axle or something like that IMO.

Only very experienced mechanics should jack an Airstream at points other than the designating jack points IMO. It can be done, but why do it, when Airstream's designated method works just fine?

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Old 09-16-2016, 08:51 AM   #81
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I know this is an old topic but I had been using the axle mounting plate to place my axle stands aft of the rear axles but it has bent the plate. The vertical is OK it is the horizontal part that bent from the cradle of the jack stands. You can see that small bend it in the first photo. The stronger point in my observation is where the axle stand is now in that photo. Is that plate where I have the jack stand which is welded to the axle (the plate that bolts through to the axle mounting plate) the same safe method recommended by Inland Andy and others or is this possibly going to affect alignment too? You can see in photo 1and 2 the 2 axle stands sit nicely in that plate and wont slip. The axle stands do not touch the axle tube. I am afraid if I use the axle stands sideways or off center on the other parts of the axle mounting plate so that I avoid bending the axle mounting plate the axle stands are able to slip off that way while jacking the other side. Should I change what I do in these photos and accept the bending of the axle mounting plate?
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Ditto.

If one uses a jack with a top piece that puts a point load on a corner of the small OEM aluminum jack plate, it is possible to bend the plate. [The photos in Post #77 show such a jack.] Putting the small block of wood between them distributes the small point load uniformly to the entire surface area of the jack plate. Also, the more basic hydraulic jacks usually have a small round head, not the "U" shaped head shown in those photos, which are designed to cradle an axle or something like that IMO.

Only very experienced mechanics should jack an Airstream at points other than the designating jack points IMO. It can be done, but why do it, when Airstream's designated method works just fine?

I agree jacking it up on the designated spot works well but my question is about the placement of jack stands. I may have placed this post in the wrong thread as my inquiry really ins't about jacking but this is the closest thread I can find to my question. Most jack stands are somewhat u shaped on top so they have something to hold on to and prevent slippage. I use 4 jack stands to support the trailer for weeks/months at a time to get the weight off the suspension and prevent tires from flatspotting. At the same time I also use the tongue jack and stabilizers. The pictures in post 77 are of jack stands - I currently use the designated Jack spot as recommend by Airstream to raise the trailer so I can put the jack stands under the trailer. A jack stand sitting under a flat spot of the frame or axle mounting plate or with a block in between could be bumped out of place IMO. My support location on the axle flange bolted to the axle mounting plate as shown in the pictures of post #77 is safe because it can't slip off but am I risking causing some other problem to alignment etc.? I appreciate the feedback.
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Old 09-16-2016, 09:24 AM   #82
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I can't remember if I asked this before but when you go to jack up a traller, do you first hook up to tow vehicle or can it just be resting on trailers power jack? I know chocking oposing wheel is nescesary.
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Old 09-16-2016, 09:33 AM   #83
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I can't remember if I asked this before but when you go to jack up a traller, do you first hook up to tow vehicle or can it just be resting on trailers power jack? I know chocking oposing wheel is nescesary.
I don't hook up to a tow vehicle but I do chock the wheels and only do it on a level surface.
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Old 09-16-2016, 10:12 AM   #84
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. . .
I appreciate the feedback.
Thanks for the clarification. There is a member here who is experienced at using the jack stands for your purpose, so hopefully he will appear. I recall an old post of his on this, and I will look for it later if needed.

Good luck!

Peter
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