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Old 10-16-2002, 10:59 PM   #1
John Weeden
 
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1977 27' Overlander
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Jacking points on '77 27' International

I need to know where to place a floor jack to remove a tire on my '77 27' Overlander. The manual directed me to look behind the rear tires, but I found no information there.

I just want to change my shocks!
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Old 10-17-2002, 12:23 AM   #2
hex
 
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Arrow thread link on this forum

Check Towner's post at this thread:http://www.airforums.com/forum...&threadid=1775

Not definetive but a good start. I was hoping for much more input myself.
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Old 10-17-2002, 06:08 AM   #3
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How about on a 1967 Overlander? Same scenario? I'm glad I read that post on not jacking at the axle! The one I'm going to look at is on blocks too, I hope that it's not blocked at the axles?
If it is sitting on blocks under the axles, am I to assume they will have to be replaced?
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Old 10-17-2002, 09:41 AM   #4
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Jabba I am not convinced that the axles are quite that fragile. however I agree with Towner not to chance it.

Axle info is a bit hard to find, and when found I am not sure how much of it is objective vs speculative. You gotta figure that the axle cases occasionally take a hi-speed lick from some object in the road, and I hope that doesn't automatically render them imperfect.

I suggest you visit/join the Vintage List (VAC List) http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/index.html
and search or ask these questions there too. (Please report back here) Eventually we will have that long-term experience here as well I hope.

Check this thread for example: http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/Postings1/Axlelist.html

Here is a link to some Axle info, a page from Inland-Andy. I wish we had actual input from the axle manufacturer. Andy leaves it a bit hazy as to whose data he uses. (Not to imply that he is wrong in his report from his own experience).

http://inlandrv.com/articles/dura-torque-axle-92001.htm
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Old 10-17-2002, 10:36 AM   #5
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jacking points

Have no imput of jacking points. However after having three tire blowouts and dealing with jacking on an 87 32ft in dirt. I have found it quicker and easier to have two 4x6 about 30" in length,angle cut on one end. Problem here is that this allows only one wheel at a time. It has also come in handy with uneven campgrounds in unhitching and hitching up.
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Old 10-17-2002, 10:56 AM   #6
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Thank You for the info Hex. I am on the VAC list, I just read that this morning, as far as damaging the axles. I'll post it on the list when I get home (at work now,shhh). Problem is we're leaving in the morning to go look at this thing 3 states away, and was considering giving a deposit. I'm getting nervous about it now. If it's blocked on the axles (15 years worth of sitting) and reading the horror stories about mice eating the electrical wiring, I'm going to have to go over the thing with a fine tooth comb and weigh the cost and trouble of replacing stuff. I appreciate all the good information I'm getting here, this forum is neck in neck with the VAC list in my book.

Thanks,

Jason
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Old 10-17-2002, 11:32 AM   #7
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Okay, just got off the phone with Andy at Inland RV, it's okay to jack the trailer on the axle at the frame mounting points, but never on the axle tube. Good chance that the axles will have lost some of their resiliency. Thanks Andy!!
I'm a little more relaxed now, the odds just tilted back in favor for the trailer. Whew!!
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Old 10-17-2002, 07:48 PM   #8
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Bent Axle?

Being that I bought my trailer used, how does one go about checking to see if there was previous damage from jacking on the axles? Can they be checked with a straight edge?

Thanks
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Old 10-21-2002, 10:09 AM   #9
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jacking point pic?

would someone who still has the jacking point stickers on their 23'-27' A/S be willing to snap a pic of the location for me? the stickers on my 25' are long gone. I am guessing that they were where the cross-member meets the frame just behind the rear axle mount, but i would like to be sure.
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Old 12-11-2002, 04:09 PM   #10
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Thank you all for all the information and ideas. I have been so busy working and testing that I just now have a break to say thanks.

I now jack my 'stream on the frame between the axels.

I used the jacking to change the shock absorbers. This required removing the front axel bolt; loosening the rear bolt and swinging the axel down until the top mount on the shock could be removed. She now does not buck going down the rough lanes of I5 with bad expansion joint damage and generally rides like a dream.

Also, I installed a TrailR BreakR to convert the vacuum actuation system to an electric actuation. After having to return the TrailR BreakR to the manufacture to re-prime the internal pump, it works great!

My wife Diane provided essential support for all of the above.

Many thanks to Andy and his staff at Inland RV for their help and parts.
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Old 12-11-2002, 09:31 PM   #11
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Jack points are for stabilizer jacks. Lifting the trailer point is behind the rear wheel or between the wheels on the axle mounting plate.
Many customers have caused serious damage to their Airstream, by trying to jack the frame up at a jack point.
I know, I know, I know, that some of the manuals say ok.
Be smart, do it the way that makes most sense. Books are written by writers, not mechanics.
Also you take the risk of hurting yourself, or more, should you lift the trailer at the wrong point, and it slips. Can't happen on the axle mounting plate.


Andy
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Old 12-12-2002, 03:04 PM   #12
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Thumbs up Questions about axle mounting plates

Axle mounting plates it'll be for me!
I'm convinced. So for the record a few questions please.

On a tandem axled A/S-T/T are there 2 axle mount plates on each side, or one continuous plate?

What is the aproximate size & thickness of the plate?

Is it easy to find an area for the jack to fit and still be reasonably able to have room to pump the jack?

If for some reason trailer had to be raised and wheels and or axles removed, resting entirely on the lifting jacks. Where would the (jack-stands for safety) go? At the jacking points? If then, one sides lifting Jacks failed, what would be the probable damage done to trailer? Same question if all lifting jacks failed?

Are axle mounting plates spot welded or continuous bead weld?
Has anyone known of the axle mounting plates to fail when holding a trailer up alone?

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And to whitebread's query a few posts prior? I don't know but It's a damm good question you ask. It should have been addressed by now. Stay with us.
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Old 12-12-2002, 07:33 PM   #13
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Tandem axle plates are one per side.
Size is at least the length of the wheel well, and the thickness is 3/16 inch.
A bottle jack that has a minimum of a 5 ton rating is placed between the tires.
Jack stands should be placed forward and rearward of each wheel, should you want to remove the axles.
Axle mounting plates are bead welded, with gaps.
Axle mounting plates don't fail when used as a jacking point.
The chassis fails when used as a jacking point since it can curl upward, should the jack not be properly placed.
Bal jacks are never to be used as a "raising jack."


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Old 12-13-2002, 01:05 AM   #14
 
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Thumbs up

Good question, Hex, and excellent answers, Andy,
Thanks

Ron
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